September 7, 1907. 
THE GARDENING WORLD 
595 
Could you suggest something that would be 
suitable? (Roseus, Middlesex.) 
There are many varieties of Roses which 
would grow well in town gardens, provided 
the situation is not too closely shut in. In 
the first place, they must have a certain 
amount of sunlight every day and be suffi¬ 
ciently open for the wind to play amongst 
the plants, as this seems to be highly im¬ 
portant to their welfare, making them less 
liable to mildew. As far as the garden and 
its fences are concerned, Roses would be 
quite successful in youx garden, but as it 
is only of small size it depends largely upon 
what houses there may be in the immediate 
vicinity. You are quite right with regard 
to the wall that is shaded by the large tree. 
It is just possible, however, that the far 
left-hand corner gets the sun for a consider¬ 
able time during the middle of the day, and 
in that case a Rose might be planted near 
that corner and sufficiently far away not to 
be under the drip of the branches. In ac¬ 
cordance with your wishes, we have made a 
selection of eight varieties of Rose which 
you could get into that central bed, and most 
of them are notable for 'their sweet scent. 
They are Liberty, Mme. Abel Chatenay, Mrs. 
John Laing, 'Cherry Ripe, Dupuy Jamain, 
General Jacqueminot and La France. The 
last five are particularly noted for their 
sweet scent. Most of them are also popular 
as buttonhole Roses, and although several 
of them are favourites for exhibition pur¬ 
poses, they are equally suitable for garden 
decoration. Besides those we name you 
could also plant William Allen Richardson 
in the centre, allowing it to get rather taller 
than the others, so as to form an appro¬ 
priate centre to the bed. Suitable climbing 
Roses for your garden would be Longworth 
Rambler, with light crimson flowers, Gloire 
de Dijon, with salmon-yellow flowers, and 
Bbuquet d’Or, with bright yellow flowers. 
All these are suitable for walls and towns, 
is an edging to the bed you could either 
riant Box or Euonymus radicans variegata, 
doth of which are dwarf, evergreen shrubs. 
Two dwarf, evergreen, herbaceous plants 
nighly suitable for making edgings are 
Thrift (Armeria maritima) and London Pride 
-Saxifraga umbrosa). We name four, so 
that you can choose whichever you think the 
most suitable. We know that all of them 
can be grown in a town garden. The two 
herbaceous plants when used as an edging 
might want renewing occasionally by lift¬ 
ing and replanting if the edging happens 
to get broken. 
2169. Rose Dorothy Perkins with New 
Shoots. 
1 My Dorothy Perkins pink rambler has 
:ent up several new strong shoots from the 
base this summer. It is only the second year 
:t has flowered, and the new shoots are from 
7 ft. to 10 ft. long. Do these comprise the 
growth for next year’s flowering, or should 
they be cut out? (Doubtful, Herts.) 
The strong shoots from the base are those 
which will give you the greatest number and 
:he best Roses for next year, so that they 
should be carefully preserved, removing 
only the unripened tips in spring. Dorothy 
Perkins is a climber, and the shoots now 
being produced enable you to use it as a 
climber. After the flowering period is over, 
all that you need do is to cut out any of the 
weakest shoots, especially those that are 
more than two years old. This, of course, 
is thinning rather than pruning, and really 
that is all the pruning that such climbers 
require. 
2170. Roses for Town Garden. 
I should like about a dozen varieties of 
Tea and Hybrid Tea Roses which would be 
suitable for growing in this district. I 
have a large round bed on the grass in front 
of the house and as it gets sun till four 
o’clock in the afternoon 1 think they would 
succeed. (A. J. Hall, Hants.) 
We seleot eight Hybrid Teas which would 
give satisfaction under the conditions you 
name, provided the cultural conditions are 
suitable. They are La France, Liberty, 
Mme. Abel Chatenay, Kaiserin A. Victoria, 
Caroline Testout, Marquise Litta, Mrs. W. 
J. Grant, and La Tosca. In like manner, 
you may grow such Tea Roses as White Ma- 
man Cochet, Gloire de Dijon, The Bride, 
and Mme. Falcot. 
TREES AND SHRUBS . 
2171. Trees for Cold District. 
I have made a garden 25 by 14 yards from 
poor pasture with clay and stony subsoil. 
I may say the garden is wind swept from 
the south and south-west, also the garden 
ground slopes towards the south, which 
makes it worse again. My idea is to plant 
some hardy trees if you will kindly give the 
kinds to plant for this cold district. (J. T. 
Whittaker, Lancs.) 
We are uncertain whether you intend the 
trees to produce shelter for the rest of your 
garden, or whether you desire to make it 
ornamental by reason of the trees alone. If 
you desire trees for shelter, you could plant 
a double Beech hedge or Thorn outside and 
Beech inside. The Lombardy Poplar is 
very largely employed as a shelter from 
winds in the south, and we think it would 
prove serviceable at least • as far north as 
your district. It would not be such a long 
lived hedge as Beech, which retains its 
leaves nearly throughout the winter when 
grown in the form of a hedge, and thus 
gives a large amount of shelter. If you 
have sufficient space to spend on shelter, you 
could plant a belt of such Willows as Salix 
smithiana and S. Oaprea. These are both 
well calculated to withstand the effects of 
strong breezes and wind from any quarter. 
We have seen them forming such a belt or 
plantation at 1,000 ft. above sea level in the 
central Highlands, and we are quite con¬ 
vinced of their suitability for such a pur¬ 
pose. Both of these are obtainable in some 
nurseries, but the names are not always cor¬ 
rect. If you desire trees for ornamental 
purposes, let us know and we shall select 
a list for you, hut, in any case, if those 
we have named are planted on the outside, 
it will make it possible to grow many shrubs, 
even in your exposed northern district. 
217 2. Jasmine Growing- Wild. 
The white summer flowering Jasmine and 
yellow winter flowering Jasmine are several 
years old, and both have grown very wild. 
When and how must I prune each of them? 
(Doubtful, Herts-.) 
The white Jasmine may be pruned any 
time after the leaves have fallen, and that 
would be the best time to do it, because 
then you could see better how to reduce the 
number of stems, while leaving those that 
may be required for the extension of the 
plant or for covering any bare spaces on the 
walls. If it is inconveniencing you in any 
way, some of the branches or shoots could 
be shortened back or tied in at present. The 
winter flowering Jasmine should be pruned 
immediately it gives up flowering. If 
pruned before then, you cut away the flower¬ 
ing branches. The branches that have been 
produced this summer will commence to 
bloom earlier or later according to the ripe¬ 
ness of the wood and the nature of the win¬ 
ter to come. We have seen this plant com¬ 
mence to bloom in October and continue as 
late as March. In either case these shoots 
must all be left until flowering has been 
completed. Then prune back all the side 
shoots not required to cover bare spaces on 
the wall. Leave, of course, one or two buds 
at the base of each shoot, and you will get 
a number of shoots from them next season 
that will give the supply of flowers for the 
winter following. 
217 3. Peaches and Nectarines Decay¬ 
ing. 
I send a Peach and a Nectarine to see 
if you would kindly let me know what is 
wrong with them. They are very bad, es¬ 
pecially the Peaches, and the Nectarines are 
very small and shrivel up. (E. P., Kincar¬ 
dineshire.) 
The skins of the Peaches and Nectarines 
are injured and covered with a corky scurf. 
It would appear that they have got injured 
in some way when young and tender. Have 
you been using some insecticide too strong 
when they were young, or were you using 
strong sulphur fumes on the hot water 
pipes? If neither of these was done, then 
we think it entirely due to the cold and wet 
character of the season. We believe it has 
been much worse with you than here. Yours 
is naturally a wet district, and it must have 
been very cold when the fruits were setting 
and afterwards. It is just possible that the 
sun got on -the trees when they were wet 
with condensed moisture in the early morn¬ 
ing and before the houses were ventilated. 
They are now attacked with a fungus named 
Glaeosporium laeticolor, which has probably 
got in, owing to the cracking of the skin 
through the previous injury, and the weather 
has been favourable to the fungus, while un¬ 
favourable to the Peaches. The only thing 
you can do now is to remove all fruits 
which are useless and burn them, or bury 
them deeply outside the garden to prevent 
the spores from attacking healthy fruits. 
Clear everything out of the house which 
would'harbour and encourage moisture. For 
instance, all plants should be put outside 
on a bed of ashes or placed in some other 
house which does not contain fruit. Keep 
the atmosphere of the house as dry as pos¬ 
sible and give plenty of ventilation during 
the day, with a little at night. This is not 
a cure, as that is impossible, but it prevents 
the disease from spreading, and by that 
means you may be able to keep SQme of the 
fruit in good condition until gathered. The 
trees may get attacked with red spider be¬ 
fore the fruits are all gathered, but you 
can then syringe them thoroughly with par¬ 
affin emulsion after the fruits are gathered, 
and then wash with clean water on the fol¬ 
lowing morning. It might be worth your 
while warming the hot water pipes on very 
cold, wet mornings to dispel the moisture 
until the fruits are gathered. 
VEGETABLES. 
2174. Sowing Parsley. 
Will Parsley sown a week ago do any 
good this autumn? (Doubtful, Herts.) 
According to your letter the seeds were 
sown about the middle of August. Parsley 
takes a good while to germinate, but with 
the plentiful moisture it should be germina¬ 
ting by this time. What it may do between 
this and Christmas will depend entirely up¬ 
on the character of the winter. If it is 
mild and open, the plants may grow to a 
good size yet, because like many other bien¬ 
nial, the plants continue to grow so long 
as the weather is sufficiently mild to en¬ 
courage it. The amount of success you will 
get will depend, therefore, entirely upon the 
weather. There is, however, sufficient time 
yet for a good deal of growth to be made 
before the advance of winter, and the leaves 
should be sufficiently large to be used. 
