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THE GARDENING WORLD 
September 14, 1907. 
Autumn Propagation of Perennials. 
C 3 c=? ,'\ ; 3 
IN THE COLD FRAME. 
of the young wood. This is a free-growing 
climber, according to the treatment given. 
Towards the end of November the Alla- 
manda will want a rest, and the plants 
may be kept somewhat drier than usual 
in winter. After the blooming season is 
over, prune the growth half way back, 
which will assist the remaining portion 
to ripen previous to the annual pruning. 
It is not at all a difficult plant to propa¬ 
gate from cuttings of the short-jointed 
shoots, these being taken off at a length 
of about four inches in the spring. Insert 
them in small pots of sandy soil, and 
plunge into the stove pit, and they will 
soon take root. Repot several times dur¬ 
ing the season as growth makes head¬ 
way. Old plants are best planted in pre¬ 
pared beds or boxes, and these must be 
placed in the warmest corner of the house. 
J. W. Forsyth. 
Glengrant, near Elgin. 
-- 
The Enemy of Almonds. 
There is something suggestive of mis¬ 
description in the above title, as, owing 
to the high prices at which Almonds have 
been selling for some months, it would 
probably be nearer the mark if Almonds 
were characterised as the enemy of con¬ 
fectioners. But many, both manufac¬ 
turers and retailers, have had an annoy¬ 
ing experience with certain kinds of Al¬ 
monds. Some of them which look healthy 
and sound when they are purchased be¬ 
gin to deteriorate and cause considerable 
annoyance to customers. It may inter¬ 
est, however, those who have had any ex¬ 
perience of bad Almonds to hear that the 
French Academy of Sciences has recently 
had its attention drawn to the action of 
cold upon a new parasite that affects Al¬ 
monds. It was originally a native of the 
North of India, and was never found un¬ 
til recent years in Europe. During the 
last few years, however, it has made its 
appearance in some of the districts of 
France, and has become perfectly accli¬ 
matised. The Almonds which are at¬ 
tacked by the worms of these insects ac¬ 
quire a bad taste which renders them un¬ 
fit for consumption. A French savant, 
M. de Loberdo, has experimented with 
success against the parasite by using arti¬ 
ficial cold. The Almonds which contain 
the unhatched eggs of the insects are 
placed into cold chambers and are only 
taken out when the Almonds are required 
for consumption. Whilst this may be a 
method of checking the development of 
the insects, it does not appear to be a very 
savoury idea that the parasite is eaten 
along with the nut. 
Melon Charles Ross. 
The rind of this variety is orange netted 
with grey. It is a deep green-fleshed va¬ 
riety, very thick, juicy and sweet. It is 
rather remarkalble, considering that it was 
raised from the well-known varieties, Blen¬ 
heim Orange and Hero of Lockinge. It 
was raised by Mr. Charles Ross, the Gar¬ 
dens, Welford Park, Newbury, who named 
it Advance and sent if to the R.H.S. Gar¬ 
dens at Wisley for trial, but as there was 
a Melon of that name already, the Fruit 
Committee named it after the raiser. After 
the trial it was given a unanimous award 
of merit on August 20th. 
As the season of autumn closes in upon 
us the sight of our flower-borders, with 
their fast-disappearing bloom and strag¬ 
gling growth, gives rise to thoughts of a 
new and improved stock of perennials for 
the following year. Some herbaceous, 
perennials will not stand the winter un¬ 
protected ; others deteriorate and should 
be renewed from time to time; while, 
apart from the needs of the herbaceous 
border itself in such respects, certain of 
these plants will be required in quantity 
for our next year’s spring and summer 
bedding. Among the above may be men¬ 
tioned Calceolarias, Pentstemons, single 
and double Arabis, Phloxes, Carnations, 
Pansies, Violas, and as a foliage subject, 
Veronica Andersonii variegata. 
It is here proposed to sketch briefly the 
easiest and most effectual method of ob¬ 
taining a fresh stock of such plants, 
namely, by propagation of cuttings in a 
cold frame. 
Preparation of the Frames. 
Since it may be laid down as an axiom 
that bad conditions will not produce good 
plants, the preliminary work should be 
most carefully attended to. Should the 
soil in the frames prove to be sour or ex¬ 
hausted, the surface soil must be removed, 
and fresh substituted. If the level re¬ 
quires raising in order to bring the cut¬ 
tings within nine inches of the glass, sifted 
coal-ashes, raked smooth, will be found 
to make a satisfactory substratum ; as an 
assistance to drainage, these are excel¬ 
lent. Where it is only necessary to pre¬ 
pare and improve the existing soil, this 
should be dug over to a depth of at least 
nine inches. Take out a small trench, 
removing the soil to the spot where it is 
intended to finish the work. Place leaf- 
soil or decaying leaves at the bottom; 
turn in the next trench, and proceed, fil¬ 
ling up the last trench with the soil re¬ 
moved. When the whole has been dug, 
spread over it three inches in depth of 
good light soil, finely sifted and well 
mixed with sharp sand. Then rake over 
until absolutely level. A final covering 
of sand should afterwards be given, and 
the whole made firm by pressing with a 
piece of board. It may be remarked 
that boards will also be needed when put¬ 
ting in the cuttings, one to kneel upon and 
another cn which to rest the feet, in order 
to avoid making hollows in the soil. 
Preparation of the Cuttings. 
For making the cuttings, select firm 
ripe growths, avoiding such as are sappy 
or weak. Shorten to a length of three 
or four inches, and make a straight clean 
transverse cut immediately below a node, 
as from this point is produced the layer of 
living cells, known as cambium — from 
which the new roots will arise. Let two 
pairs of leaves remain at the top; remove 
any flower-buds, and all lower leaves and 
leaf-stipules. Each cutting should show 
a clean unbruised stem, with nothing to 
encourage decay or damping off. While 
making the cuttings, it is advisable to 
keep them out of strong sunshine, in order 
to avoid any needless flagging. 
Putting in the Cuttings. 
Have ready a piece of twine as long a« 
the width of the frame, and attach it at 
either end to a short stick. Insert the 
stick in the soil at either side of the frame 
a couple of inches below its upper wall 
stretching the line rather tightly acros: 
the surface of the soil. Now put in the 
first line of cuttings, or 2 inches apart 
according to their size. A twig of wooej 
cut to the required length will serve fo 
measuring the distances in the first line 
and the distance apart of the succeeding 
rows. Use a small blunt-pointed dibber 
and work it round so as to make holes 0 
a fair size ; a small hole discourages fm 
rooting, by the caking of the soil induced 
As each hole is made, a little of the sut 
face sand will work downwards into it. I 
will be remembered that the more sand" 
the rooting medium, the more likely ar 
the cuttings to resist decay and dampim 
off. Press in each cutting carefull 
against the line of string, as far down a 
the lowest leaves. The hole made mu: 
be only so deep as to allow the base of th 
cutting to touch the soil; otherwise th 
cutting will be “huRg,” a condition nc; 
favourable to root formation. 
Move the line down to the distanc 
measured, and insert the ne'xt row, mal 
ing the cuttings alternate with those c 
the previous row. 
When a frame is filled, water the cui 
tings lightly. Put on the sash—whiq 
should be previously cleaned—and shad 
with mats for two or three days, to hinde 
flagging so far as is possible. 
After-T reatment. 
Keep close until the roots have former 
When on examination this is found t 
have taken place, allow plenty of air 
the weather be fine, and water when nece: 
sary. Do not allow any damped-off cu 
tings to remain. Keep the soil weede! 
and stirred over, and remove any flowe 
buds which may make their appearance 
As growth proceeds, pinch out the tips < 
the plants once or more to secure a bush 
habit. 
The plants should be allowed to remai 
undisturbed until removed to their flowe 
ing quarters, when they may be carefuh 
lifted, each with as large a ball of so 
as possible. 
if the instructions are followed out wit 
care, the result should give a fine ar 
healthy stock of plants, to bear witne 
to the merits of their autumn propag. 
tion in the cold frame. 
Helen Colt, A. R.H.S. 
Great Lemon Glut. 
There is such a heavy crop of Lemoi 
in the South Australian orchards th 
year that the fruit is scarcely wort 
marketing owing to the exceedingly lo 
prices obtainable. If Lemons are packe 
in dry, fine sand in layers it is said the! 
will keep fresh for many months. 
