620 
September 21, 1907. 
space. If the sun shines when lifting the 
plants, cover them over with a sack or mat 
directly they are raised to prevent flagging, 
as if they flag hadly they are difficult to 
resuscitate. After potting, which should 
be done quite firmly, stand the plants in a 
deep, sunny frame, or in the greenhouse, 
and shade them heavily from hot sun. A 
good soaking of water should be given after 
potting, after which little more will be 
needed for a fortnight if the plants are 
syringed twice a day. A close, warm and 
moist atmosphere is necessary to quickly 
establish the plants in their pots. 
Violets for Frames. 
•Cutting round preparatory to lifting is 
scarcely as necessary for these as for larger, 
taller plants, but it pays for doing if time 
can be spared. As the plants will not be 
potted, but planted out in frames, there is 
no need to.cut them in too closely with the 
spade. The careful cultivator will have re¬ 
moved all runners as they appeared in sum¬ 
mer, but where this has not been done it 
should be carried out straightway. Pinch 
or cut all runners back to their point of 
origination, i.e., near the centre or crown 
of the plants. 
Late Hydrangeas. 
A batch of late Hydrangeas is a very 
valuable asset at this time of year, as with 
careful treatment the blooms will open freely 
and last in good condition for several weeks. 
My plants have been out of doors since 
spring, in a semi-shady place, but they will 
now be brought in for flowering. They are 
exceedingly useful for indoor vases now, 
when not much else besides the Chrysanthe¬ 
mums are available. Liberal feeding will 
be more than ever necessary this autumn, 
as the heavy rains have washed much of the 
nutriment out of the soil. Natural liquid 
manure is the best food. 
Auriculas in Pots. 
These, more especially the lovely and 
hardy alpine section, are a perfect boon to 
the greenhouse owner in the dull days of 
winter, and every amateur should grow a 
good batch. Frames containing them have 
been facing north all the summer—only in 
accordance with tradition, for the usually 
troublesome sun has sulked unmercifully 
this year — but no delay should now take 
place in turning them round to face full 
south. At the same time carefully go over 
each plant, examine the drainage hole and 
put things right there if there is any stop¬ 
page, and clear away a little of the surface 
soil. This will get rid of moss and weeds, 
and may serve to expose the troublesome 
white plant louse which sometimes secretes 
itself near the collar of the plants. If 
these pests are present, clear them out with 
a camel’s hair brush dipped in methylated 
spirits. 
Early Primulas. 
If bloom is short in the greenhouse, a 
raid should be made on the Primula frame. 
A search will generally reveal a few plants 
with incipient flower trusses clustering 
among the leaves, and if these are taken to 
the greenhouse blooms will soon unfold. In 
the greenhouse the plants will take more 
water, but anything like over-watering 
should be strictly guarded against. In 
watering Chinese Primulas at any time it is 
always best to keep the plants on the dry 
side rather than make the soil wetter when 
it is already moist. 
Poinsettias. 
Whether these have been summered out¬ 
doors or in a frame, they should now go 
into the greenhouse, as cold causes the lower 
leaves to turn yellow and drop off. Stand 
them in the warmest corner available where 
they can have plenty of light, and keep them 
well supplied with water. As soon as the 
THE GARDENING WORLD. 
tiny green flowers show at the top of the 
stems, surrounded by the embryo crimson 
bracts, feeding should commence, ringing 
the changes on natural and artificial 
manures. 
Lilium Harrisii, 
The beautiful Lilium Harrisii or Ber¬ 
muda Lily is now on sale at the bulb mer¬ 
chants, and every greenhouse grower should 
purchase as many bulbs as his purse will 
allow. Good bulbs should go singly into 
5 in. pots, indifferent ones may be squeezed 
three into a 6 in. pot, where they will give 
some very useful flowers. It is not neces¬ 
sary to fill the pots with compost when pot¬ 
ting Lilies, as more soil ca'n be added as 
growth proceeds. About half or two-thirds 
fill the pot. Bury the bulb nearly to its 
apex in this, and stand in a cold frame. If 
a few ashes or dead leaves are packed round 
the pots watering will be reduced to a mini¬ 
mum. When roots are active the pots may 
receive a further addition of soil, and be 
taken into the greenhouse. 
Early Roses. 
Roses which were forced last winter 
should now be ready for repotting or top¬ 
dressing. I only repot once in two years, 
in alternate years contenting myself with 
crumbling away all the old soil possible 
from the surface .of the ball and replacing 
it with new, rich compost. If possible, the 
Roses should stand in a cold frame after 
repotting to protect the new soil from heavy 
rains. 
.Sunnyside. 
Orchids for Amateurs. 
General Remarks. 
The virtually sunless summer has natur¬ 
ally been detrimental to all the light loving 
species of Orchids. There has never been 
a season in my experience that has produced 
so many soft and sappy pseudo-bulibs and 
growths. There is not so much difficulty 
in getting such growth properly ripened as 
in preventing them restarting and making 
secondary growths, especially when such 
growths commence so late as they have this 
year. There is only one method possible 
that can be applied under such conditions, 
and that is to give them cooler and drier 
conditions both at the roots and in the at¬ 
mosphere, and at the same time affording 
the plants the full benefit of all available 
light, with, of course, due regard to the pre¬ 
vention of scorching or injury to the foliage 
during the hottest parts of the day. The 
moisture requirements should only be suffi¬ 
cient to prevent the pseudo-bulbs and 
growths becoming shrivelled and to encour¬ 
age any root action. 
The deciduous section of Dendrobiums 
should now be gone carefully through to 
ascertain the condition of the new growths. 
Where these have reached maturity, which 
can be observed by the pseudo-bulb advanc¬ 
ing with the terminal leaf at the point, such 
plants should be gradually dried and then 
removed from the hothouse to cooler and 
more airy conditions, where they may have 
the full benefit of the light, which will en¬ 
able them to become properly ripened and 
thus prepared for early flowering if re¬ 
quired. Plants of this class when subjected 
to dry conditions are liable to be attacked 
by red spider. This is best held in check 
by syringing overhead; a bright morning 
should be chosen and the syringing done 
sufficiently early in the day to permit of the 
foliage becoming dry again before night¬ 
fall, or it will be liable to become spotted 
and permanently disfigured. 
Where permanent shading has been used 
as well as the blinds on the roofs of the 
houses (with the exception of span roof 
Odontoglossom houses), it should now be 
washed off and the blinds dispensed with at 
the earliest possible moment. I would point 
out the fact that with the prevalence of soft 
growth the plants will need considerable 
care, as the foliage is liable to be easily 
disfigured by excessive light, but with due 
care injury may be avoided, and unless we 
can procure thoroughly ripened growth, both 
the flowering season and the future well¬ 
being of the plants will be detrimentally 
effected. 
Damping the floors, etc., to produce the 
desirable degree of humidity of the atmo¬ 
sphere also requires some little forethought. 
I would never advise damping until the nor¬ 
mal degree of the temperature of the house 
has been reached, and I would also recom¬ 
mend that the afternoon damping should be 
done sufficiently early to permit of the ex¬ 
cessive moisture becoming distilled before 
the cool evening temperatures are reached. 
Ventilation must also be carefully done. 
A little artificial heat in the hot water pipes 
will be beneficial in all the warm divisions 
where free ventilation is afforded. 
H. J. Chapman. 
♦ ♦♦- 
Horticultural Societies’ 
Diary 
of Forthcoming Events. 
I Abbreviations used 
A.—Association 
Am.—Amateurs 
Ohy.—Chrysanthemum 
c.m.—Committee meeting 
XJott.—Cottage or Cottagers 
D.—District 
G.—Gardening or gardener 
Thus :—The Templeton G. Am. and Cott. M.I.H.S 
Gardeners, Amateurs’ and Cottagers’ Mutual Improve 
ment Horticultural Society. 
H.—Horticultural 
M.I.—Mutual Improve¬ 
ment 
m.m.—Monthly meeting 
S.—Society 
w.m.—Weekly meeting 
SEPTEMBER. 
23rd.—Horsforth G.M.I.S. (w.m.). 
24th.—National Rose Society’s Show, 
Royal Horticultural Hall, West¬ 
minster; Crawley and D. G.M.I.A. 
(m.m., Lecture on “Gardens of 
Italy,” by Mr. Jos. Cheal, 
F. R.H.S.-). 
25th. -Harrietsham G.S. (m.m.) 
26th.—Southampton R.H.S. (m.m.); 
South Shields FI. and H.S. (m.m.); 
Lee, Blackheath and West Kent 
H.S. (m.m.). 
28th. — Leeds Paxton S. (w.m.); Benfield- 
side and -D. Sweet Pea S. (m.m.). 
-f+4- 
Lychnis grandiflora. 
Several varieties of this plant were 
shown at the meeting of the R.H.S. on 
3rd September, and they gave an Award 
of Merit to a large rosy crimson variety 
with deeply cut petals. It is a border 
plant which is much less seldom seen 
than L. coronaria and others of its allies. 
Award of Merit to Mr. Amos Perry, 
Hardy Plant Farm, Enfield. 
National Rose Society. 
The autumn show of the N.R.S. takes 
place on the 24th inst., at the Royal Hor¬ 
ticultural Hall, Westminster, commen¬ 
cing at one o’clock and closing at 8 p.m. 
Money prizes to the value of upwards of 
;£ioo will be offered for competition, in 
addition to gold and silver medals, and 
a silver cup presented by E. B. Lindsell, 
Esq., President of the Society, for the 
first prize in the decorative section, which 
is open only to lady amateurs. 
