THE GARDENING WORLD 
September 28, 1907. 
635 
HI-suited for the taking of cuttings, 
nail shoots sent up from the base are just 
e thing. Big roots may, of course, be 
ivided a little later on. 
arnations. 
Carnation planting may still go on for a 
eek or two. Much depends upon the 
eather. 
awns. 
Lose no time in sowing grass seed where 
ire patches exist on lawns. 
The Fruit Garden. 
Here, again, the wise gardener is at work 
reparing his ground for the reception of 
•uit trees. Of course everyone cloes nofc- 
lant a new batch annually, but there, are 
.ways a number of new beginners t . - 
reparing Ground for Fruit Trees. 
When breaking up ground for fruit trees 
[ways bear in mind that it is the last 
lance to do the job thoroughly. Fruit 
ees are not like cabbage plants. They are 
1 remain a very long time. It may be for 
ears, it may be for ever, as the song says, 
he Loganberry. 
Do not overlook that valuable fruit, the 
oganberry. It is to be had cheaply, and 
here space is available no one who likes 
erries should be without it. It is without 
ou'bt the best berry of the century, despite 
le long time it has taken to make headway, 
'reated like . the Raspberry, it does splen- 
idly, but it wants a great deal more room, 
athering Fruit. 
All Pears and Apples that are fit should 
e gathered at once. Where wasps abound 
: is almost hopeless to try and save late 
'lums. 
trawberries and Raspberries. 
See that things are tidied up generally. 
Strawberries and Raspberries should now be 
it for going through the winter without 
urther attention. 
The Kitchen Garden. 
)nions. 
So far as I have seen, Onions do not 
eem to be very good this season. There 
las been a great deal of blight about, caus- 
ng the bulbs to ripen up when small. It 
.t curious to note how gardeners seem to 
leglect their Onions. They see the mildew 
loming, and, well, they let it come, that’s 
ill. Onion bulbs should all be up by now 
ind nearly, if not quite, ripened. When 
laying on the ground, it is always advisable 
! :o cover with sacks at night owing to the 
heavy dews. Autumn sown Onions should 
be thoroughly thinned out for standing over 
the winter. 
Potatos. 
All Potatos are better out of the ground 
now. Get them up and store at once. 
Blight is very noticeable in places, I find, 
especially after the tubers are lifted. 
Celery. 
Celery that is to be used in early winter 
should now be quite earthed up. Always 
choose a dry day and do the work in the 
afternoon when the dew has dried off the 
plants. 
Tomatos. 
Tomatos have small chances of ripening 
out of doors and should now be taken in¬ 
side. 
Carrots and Beet. 
All Carrots and Beets are better if lifted 
soon, but Parsnips may be left alone for 
awhile. 
Clear away and burn all rubbish as it 
accumulates." Horti. 
The Amateur’s Greenhouse. 
Panicum and Tradescantia. 
Taking the year round, there are no plants 
in the greenhouse which prove such faith¬ 
ful friends as the above two. But they are 
the sort of friends which do not improve 
with age; the old adage,- Youth will be 
served, being splendidly exemplified in their 
case. This being so,-, a good batch of cut¬ 
tings should he put in 'before the clouds of 
winter shut off those beams from Old Sol 
which are so helpful in inducing roots to 
push. At this season quite short cuttings 
should be used, not more than 2 in. to 3 in. 
long, as longer ones damp off badly should 
the weather be unkind. Choose the very 
best coloured tops available as we shall 
get little sun now to put colour into green 
shoots. Pots in. in diameter are large 
enough; they should be nicely drained and 
the soil should be surfaced with a good 
layer of fine silver sand; above all, make 
the soil quite firm round the cuttings. 
Potting Violets. 
When lifting the Violets for filling frames 
at this season I always look out a few nice 
plants of trim, compact habit and with 
prominent flower buds for potting for the 
greenhouse. If the roots are small, 35 in. 
pots will be large enough; but 5 in. pots 
are generally required when the plants have 
done well. Little soil is required besides 
that which clings to the roots when lifting, 
and what extra is used may be old, sifted 
compost from the potting shed. After pot¬ 
ting, range the pots alongside a wall out¬ 
doors, where an early frost is not likely to 
nip them, and after a fortnight or so take 
them into the greenhouse. Here they should 
stand near the door or a ventilator, for they 
must have abundance of air or the leaves 
will mildew. A little artificial manure will 
increase the size of the flowers, but much 
spoils the colour of the more delicate mauves 
and lavenders. Take the pots into the dwel¬ 
ling house when the flowers open, and the 
“missus” will be so pleased that she will 
let you off the new hat you promised her ! 
Solanums or Winter Cherries. 
These are among the hardiest of green¬ 
house plants, but lose their leaves at the 
impact of a severe frost; therefore they 
should be potted up at the. earliest oppor¬ 
tunity. -If cut round as advised, they give 
little trouble to pot; indeed, I have often 
taken a large, empty box—with the necessary 
number of pots—down to the plot and done 
the potting there. This is a pleasant task 
on a sunny Saturday afternoon—I - dare 
not say Sunday morning. Solanums like 
the soil well firmed round their roots, and 
also like loam of (good quality with some 
sand in it. If the weather is still open, 
the plants may go into a cold frame after 
potting; otherwise the greenhouse should 
'be utilised. They should 'be shaded from 
bright sunshine and kept moist with the 
syringe. Although, to our ideas, of unplea¬ 
sant flavour, greenfly favour the plants very 
much and must be kept down. 
Grape Vines. 
Where Grapes are still hanging, the house 
must be kept as dry as possible, and all 
dead leaves collected as they fall; anything 
unpleasant in the house soon impairs the 
flavour of the Grapes. If young shoots 
have issued again from the side growths, 
pinch them right out, as they can now do 
no good, and only shade the Vines. In 
cutting the bunches, cut away about two- 
thirds of the lateral or side shoot which 
carries the bunch; also cut back all laterals 
one-half which bear no Grapes. This will 
let in more light and air and plump up 
the basal buds, on which next year’s crop 
depends. The -border must still be kept 
moist. 
Shading. 
Where any sort of wash has been painted 
on the glass to shade the house it should 
now be washed off. What sun we get after 
this date rarely has power to do harm; 
on the contrary, it may well do much good. 
If any plant should flag, it is a simple 
matter to throw a mat or sack on the glass 
for an hour or so. In towns, quite hot 
water, with plenty of washing soda in it, 
should be used to clean the glass, or the 
greasy soot deposit from chimneys will not 
be removed. Defer the cleaning of the in¬ 
side of the house until a wet day—but do 
not forget to clean it. 
Resting Caladiums. 
It is perfectly natural for these gorgeous- 
. leaved plants to rest at this season, and 
they should be encouraged to do so. Do 
not stand them in. a shady, out-pf-the-way 
corner, but keep them well in the light, and 
give water in gradually decreasing quan¬ 
tities until the foliage dies naturally away. 
The pots may then be stored on their sides 
under the greenhouse stage, where the soil 
will not become quite dust dry. Dry rot 
in Caladiums is a terrible disease and will 
polish off .scores of tubers in short time. 
Old Fuchsias. 
Where these are still outside, fetch them 
in now. Winter treatment may depend 
largely upon convenience; scores of fine old 
plants' are wintered annually in quite cold 
sheds, with no further protection than 
plenty of dry leaves heaped round and over 
the pots. If greenhouse room is plentiful, 
' shorten the plants back about half, and 
stand them close together in an odd corner. 
Smaller plants may go under the stage, but 
they must not receive too much drip or they 
will rot. Fuchsias ma}' be kept almost dust 
dry at the roots in the dead of winter, but 
a little water should always be given ’at 
the first sign of shrivelling in the wood. 
Sunnyside. 
Orchids for Amateurs. 
Deciduous Calartthes. 
The species and numerous hybrids of this 
genus will now have completed their 
growth. Where the plants have been grown 
under the usual shaded conditions, it will 
be desirable that more light should now be 
afforded and every encouragement given to 
induce the pseudo-bulbs to become properly 
ripened. As the foliage dies down less 
water will be required, but on no account 
should the plants be permitted to remajn 
long in a dry state at the roots until the 
flowering season is passed. I have pre¬ 
viously mentioned the desirability of hav¬ 
ing the pseudo-bulbs properly matured, and 
in addition to this I would also point out 
that it is impossible to procure the best 
colour effects from the plants without the 
aid of an abundance of light. One has 
only to take as an example C. Veitchii and 
grow it, or even endeavour to expand fts 
flowers, in the fog area of London or other 
smoky manufacturing districts. If one is 
able to see expanded flowers even with 
favourable outside conditions of the atmo¬ 
sphere, the colours have become so washed 
out that one can scarcely recognise the 
flowers as being the type of "this fine hybrid. 
I have also seen somewhat similar results 
produced from large immature pseudo-bulbs 
of other kinds, and I may thus be excused 
for endeavouring to impress on my amateur 
friends the desirability of trying to 
properly ripen their pseudo-bulbs now that 
the plants have reached maturity of growth 
and while we may also procure some aid 
from the sun’s rays. 
.1 have on a previous occasion pointed out 
that the warm, dry conditions of an ordi¬ 
nary Melon house meet the requirements of 
