Proven Berry Plants i i KNOTT’S BERRY PLACE < i Trees and Vines 
Youngberries, Boysen berries, dewber¬ 
ries, raspberries, Loganberries, and all 
varieties of blackberries except Moun¬ 
tain and Advance blackberries, which are 
evergreen. 
To control the white scale (rose 
scale), which gets on the canes near the 
ground and sometimes becomes quite 
bad, spray during the dormant season 
with one of the refined lubricating oil 
sprays as is used on citrus trees. Use at 
the rate of iy 2 gallons to 100 gallons 
of water and keep it well mixed. Even 
if the rose scale is hardly bad enough 
to justify an oil spray during the dor¬ 
mant season, still it may pay to spray, 
for while you are killing the scale you 
may clean up enough thrips to prevent 
trouble later in the season. 
Should thrips or red spider show up 
any time during the season spray at 
once with oil using one gallon to one 
hundred gallons of water. Or if you pre¬ 
fer you can use Black Leaf 40 and 
Whale oil soap up until fruiting time. 
In this case use one pint Black Leaf 40 
and 3 pounds of Whale oil soap to one 
hundred gallons of water. 
If strawberry fields are attacked by 
aphis dust at once with nicotine dust. 
Should red spider appear, spray with 
any good light oil spray, using one to 
one and a half gallons to 130 gallons of 
water. This oil spray will also kill aphis 
if both aphis and red spider should come 
at the same time. The important part 
and the hard part with strawberries is 
to put the spray on with enough force 
to whip the leaves around so that the 
spray reaches the under side of all of 
the leaves. 
Sprays for the Home Garden —For 
redberry which prevents blackberries 
from ripening uniformly. If only a small 
planting is to be sprayed get one quart 
of liquid lime-sulphur from your feed 
store and mix it with two and one-half 
gallons of water or get half pound of 
dry powdered lime-sqlphur and mix it 
with three gallons of water. This can 
be applied with any kind of a small 
sprayer. The important part is to com¬ 
pletely wet the vines or bushes all over 
and to apply it at just the right time, 
which is just when the leaf buds (not 
blossom buds) are commencing to open. 
If you have been very seriously both¬ 
ered the past season by your berries not 
ripening, give them a second spraying, 
consisting of one-quarter pound of wet- 
able sulphur to five gallons of water 
when in full blossom. 
For white scale (rose scale) near the 
base of the canes, use one-half pint of 
good oil spray, such as is used on citrus 
trees, to 3 gallons of water. Apply this 
in the winter while the vines are dor¬ 
mant. 
If strawberries should be attacked by 
aphis (small green plant lice), dust well 
with Nico Dust. If strawberries are at¬ 
tacked by red spider (an exceedingly 
small red or yellow mite on the under 
side of leaves) spray thoroughly with 
one of the light oil sprays. The hard 
part and the important part is to get 
force enough to whip the leaves around 
so that the spray thoroughly covers the 
underside of all of the leaves. Sometimes 
one or two spoons full of sulphur scat¬ 
tered close around the plants on a hot 
day will create fumes enough to kill the 
spiders. 
If any other conditions should arise 
which require spraying, we would sug¬ 
gest that you write for the bulletins 
listed below on this page and also take 
the matter up with your local horticul¬ 
tural commissioner. If at any time we 
can be of any help we will be glad to 
do so. 
Help for Berry Growers 
During the course of a season we re¬ 
ceive a very great many letters asking 
information concerning berry growing, 
and while we are always glad to answer 
these questions as best we can, some¬ 
times it would take many pages to an¬ 
swer completely. It is impossible, in as 
small a book as our little catalog, to 
give very complete directions for plant¬ 
ing, irrigating, pruning, and caring for 
all the different varieties of berries. The 
University of California at Berkeley, 
and also the Department of Agriculture 
at Washington, issue a number of circu¬ 
lars and bulletins on growing the differ¬ 
ent varieties of berries which will be 
mailed to you absolutely free if you will 
ask for them. These give a great deal 
of detailed information which is illus¬ 
trated with pictures, making them very 
interesting reading for berry growers. 
You can send to University of California. College of Agriculture, Berkeley, 
Calif., for Circular No. 164 on Small Fruit Culture in California. 
Circular No. 25 Bush Fruit Culture in California. 
Circular No. 154 on Irrigation Practice in Growing Small Fruits in California. 
Circular No. 265 on Plant Disease and Pest Control. 
Bulletin No. 399 on the Blackberry Mite—the cause of redberry disease. 
Circular No. 23 on Strawberry Culture in California. 
By writing the Department of Agri¬ 
culture, Washington, D. C., you can get 
the following bulletins: 
Farmers’ Bulletin No. 643, Blackberry 
Culture. 
Farmers’ Bulletin No. 728, Dewberry 
Culture. 
Farmers’ Bulletin No. 887, Raspberry 
Culture. 
Farmers’ Bulletin . .o. 998, Culture of 
the Loganberry. 
Farmers’ Bulletin No. 1458, Straw¬ 
berry Diseases. 
Farmers’ Bulletin No. 1027, Straw¬ 
berry Culture. 
Farmers’ Bulletin No. 1043, Straw¬ 
berry Varieties. 
Farmers’ Bulletin No. 1398, Currants 
and Gooseberries. This last one will ex¬ 
plain why we do not grow currants and 
gooseberries commercially in Southern 
California. 
Farmers’ Bulletin No. 1488, Diseases 
of Raspberries and Blackberries. 
Farmers’ Bulletin No. 1399, Blackberry 
Growing. 
Farmers’ Bulletin No. 1403, Dewberry 
Growing. 
Circular No. 220, The Brainard Black¬ 
berry. 
27 
