THE AZALEA. 
The name of this genus of plants is from the Greek 
azaleos —dry, the allusion being to the dry, arid habita¬ 
tion of the plant. Linnaeus, who gave the name to the 
genus, doubtless supposed this to be true of all of them, 
whereas it is only true in a few instances, most prefer¬ 
ring a moist soil, and some thrive best in wet situations. 
The genus belongs to natural order Ericaceae, (Heaths, 
etc.) and is closely allied to the Rhododendrons, from 
which it differs chiefly by the flowers having five sta¬ 
mens instead of ten. Azaleas are natives of China, 
Japan, Europe, and North America, and are among the 
most beautiful ornamental shrubs, the ease with which 
they are cultivated adding much to their value. The 
North American species are A. viscosa, the clammy 
Azalea, false or wild Honey-suckle, deciduous, flowers 
in June, white, or tinged with rose-color, covered with 
glutinous hairs, very fragrant, and is common in low 
grounds, from Maine to Mississippi. A. nudiflora, pur¬ 
ple Azalea, or Pinxter-flower, common in the Eastern 
and Southern States on cool, dry soils. Flowers quite 
variable in color, ranging from white through rose- 
color to purple, appearing in May, before or with the 
leaves. A. calendidacea, flame-colored Azalea, native 
of the Alleghanies, a shrub from four to ten feet high, 
very showy. All of the North American varieties have 
been long cultivated in Europe where they, particularly 
the viscosa and nudiflora, have been crossed with the 
A. pontica, giving hundreds of hybrids of great beauty. 
The A.pontica, the best European species, is a native of 
the countries around the Black Sea, a shrub from three 
to five feet high, with orange-yellow or rich golden 
flowers about two inches in diameter. The so called 
“ Ghent Azaleas ” are the result of years of cultivation 
and thousands of experiments in crossing and hybrid¬ 
izing the hardy deciduous Azaleas of Europe and 
America. The A.pontica is not so hardy as the Ameri¬ 
can species, and many of the hybrids do not withstand 
the winters of our Northern States. 
Quite recently a new species of Azalea the A. mollis 
has been introduced from Japan. It has large, soft de- 
deciduous leaves with flowers larger than those of 
either the American or European species, of various 
colors showing earlier than the Ghent varieties. 
The Chinese Azalea A. indica is quite distinct from 
those found in other countries, being nearer to the 
Rhododendrons. It is an evergreen shrub from two to 
four feet high, not hardy, but known as a green¬ 
house variety and is well adapted to window culture. 
Its flowers are large, very showy, and of various 
colors. By crossing, these colors have been mixed, 
and we have now almost every conceivable shade 
and style of variegation. Double varieties are also 
common. Many other species are also credited to 
China, but it is difficult to determine if they are true 
species or only varieties. Of these the best are A. 
amcena and A. obtusa, both handsome little evergreen 
shrubs, quite hardy in the latitude of New York, al¬ 
though classed in many catalogues as greenhouse 
varieties. Its leaves are much smaller than those of A. 
indica, flowers, about an inch in diameter, those of the 
former a bright purplish-red, and of the latter an orange- 
red approaching flame-color. 
All the hardy varieties and species of Azaleas require 
nothing more than a good, rich garden soil, but it should 
be deep and composed of a fair proportion of vegetable 
mold. The varieties of A. viscosa succeed best in 
rather moist or wet soil, and it is well to keep them 
lightly mulched. All the varieties and species form 
what may be called clumps or balls of earth, through 
which the fine roots ramify in all directions, but seldom 
pass out singly, as is the case with many shrubs. In 
transplanting, this ball of earth should not be broken, 
but removed with the plant, and if this be done, they 
may be taken long distances before replanting with but 
little danger of killing them. Before planting out, this 
ball of earth should be well soaked, so the water can 
reach the center as well as the outside roots; and after 
planting the soil should be firmly pressed about the ball, 
else there is danger of leaving a space through which 
the water of subsequent rains will find its way, without 
being of any service to the roots. 
The Chinese varieties, not being hardy, are grown in 
pots, and require soil similar in its constituents, made 
quite rich, but no fresh, rank manures should be used. 
A compost of old sods and cow manure thoroughly 
worked together is a good mixture in which to grow 
them. The pots should be about two inches more in 
diameter than the ball of roots—and the plants should 
be repotted every year just after they have bloomed, or 
just before the buds swell for blooming, the former time 
being the safer—and at each change the size of the pot 
should be slightly increased, and the plant pruned to 
the shade desired. They should have a season of rest 
every year, and if bloomed in the winter, should be 
given a cool, half-shady situation during summer, with 
just water enough to prevent the leaves from dropping. 
When it is desired to blossom Azaleas in the house, they 
should- be removed in the fall before frost, from the 
places where they were sunk after repotting in the 
spring and set where they can be kept at a nearly uni¬ 
form temperature of 60°. Keep them lightly watered 
until the buds begin to swell, when the temperature 
should be increased very gradually. A slight change, 
if sudden, serves to blast the buds, and care must also 
be taken that the heat is not sufficient to force the 
leaves into growth. A great amount of sun is not 
necessary, but they will be none the worse for it. There 
is no plant that gives better return for the care in win¬ 
dow gardening than the Azalea, if the care is properly 
bestowed. 
As regards propagation, the species may be raised 
from seed, from layers or from cuttings of the green 
wood. If from seed, it should be sown in boxes or seed- 
pans and kept under glass, watering as required. As 
soon as the young plants are large enough, they may be 
pricked out separately in a frame, or potted singly in 
small pots. 
Layering is usually best done when the plant is resum¬ 
ing its growth after its season of rest. The shoot de¬ 
sired to become a new plant should be notched or half 
