HYACINTHS. 
If we would be successful in the cultivation of the 
Hyacinth for winter blooming, in either the greenhouse 
or window garden, it will be necessary to commence 
preparations as early in October as possible, so as to give 
the bulbs as much time as we can to properly develop 
their roots before they are started into growth ; for un¬ 
less they are well rooted all our efforts to obtain a fine 
display of this favorite winter-flowering bulb will be in 
vain. 4 
In order to obtain a continued succession of bloom 
during the winter and spring months, it is absolutely 
necessary to make successive plantings until the de¬ 
sired quantity is secured, so when the bulbs are pro¬ 
cured, it is advisable to spread them out in a dark, cool 
situation, and occasionally examine them, and as soon 
as they begin to throw out roots they should be planted. 
By selecting them in this manner, a continued succes¬ 
sion of bloom may be enjoyed from the middle of Jan¬ 
uary until May, as the Hyacinth is a plant easily culti¬ 
vated, and can be grown in pots or glasses. 
In cultivating the Hyacinth in glasses, the single va¬ 
rieties are mostly used, and do well when so grown, but 
then a few of the double varieties do equally as well, 
and can be used for this purpose. 
In purchasing glasses, those known as Tye’s pattern 
are to be preferred, and those of dark color should be 
selected. The bulbs should be placed in the glasses as 
early in October as possible, first placing in the bottom 
of each glass a small piece of charcoal; then set the 
bulb in, and fill with rain water so that it will barely 
touch the bottom of the bulb, and then place in a dark, 
cold cellar (no other place will answer as well) for not 
less than three months ; then they should be very grad¬ 
ually brought to the light until they are placed in the 
lightest situation to be had, and given as much fresh air 
as possible. Keep in a cool room, and the flowers will 
remain a long time in perfection. When the plants 
are growing it is advisable to turn them occasionally, 
and what water is lost by evaporation must be 
supplied. 
For cultivation in pots, a light, rich loamy soil and 
good drainage is indispensable to success. A compost 
composed of two-thirds well decayed sods from an old 
pasture mixed with one-third well decayed cow manure, 
is the most suitable. In potting, use pots four or five 
inches in diameter and place a single bulb in each; se 
lect porous or soft baked pots, and let them be well 
drained ; then fill up to within an inch of the top and 
place the bulb in the centre; then fill up, leaving the 
crown of the bulb uncovered. A thorough watering 
should be given and the pots placed outside in any situ¬ 
ation where the water does not stand ; cover with dirt 
to the depth of three or four inches. In this situation 
they can be permitted to remain until cold weather sets 
in, when they should be brought inside and placed in a 
dark, cool cellar until it is desired to bring them into 
bloom, when they should be very gradually introduced 
into light and heat, and after growth commences given 
all the sunlight and fresh air possible. 
After the flowers have decayed, the bulbs that have 
been grown in glasses should be thrown away, while 
those grown in pots can be removed to the cellar again, 
and in the spring planted out in the flower border if it 
is desired to preserve them, but as good bulbs can be so 
easily and cheaply obtained it is almost a waste of time 
to attempt to do much with them. 
For the benefit of those who contemplate the cultiva¬ 
tion of the Hyacinth for the first time, I enumerate the 
names of a few of the most desirable for cultivation in 
pots and glasses: 
Twelve single varieties for pots: Baron Von Tuyll, 
Orondates, Regulus, La Peyrouse, Grande Vainqueur, 
Mirandolin, Tliemistocles, Amy, L'Ami de Cceur, 
Norma, Heroine and King of Holland. 
Twelve double for pots: A la Mode, Rembrandt, Blocks- 
berg, Bouquet Tendre, Alida, Catharina, Panorama , Re¬ 
gina Victoria, La Tour d’Auvergne, La Virginite, 
Anna Marie, Pyrene and Miss Kitty. 
Twelve single varieties for glasses : Mimosa, Bleu 
Mourant, Grande Lilas, Porcelain, Sceptre, Robert Stei¬ 
ger, Sultan’s Favorite, Madam Hodgson, Norma, Mad. 
Talleyrande, Tliemistocles, Alba superbissima and Anna 
Caroline. 
Twelve double for glasses : Bouquet Tendre, Frederic 
the Great, A la Mode, La Veseale, Pyrene, Virgo, Blocks- 
berg, Grand Sultan, Othello, Rudolphus, Prince Fred¬ 
eric and Marie Louise. 
. Chas. E. Parnell. 
FOOT-WALKS. 
FoOT-walks about house and garden, more especially 
in rural villages than on farms, are often so poor as to 
cause inconvenience, severe colds, serious diseases, and 
at times deaths, through feet and clothing wetted by 
walking through grass—one of the exceedingly dan¬ 
gerous things. Board walks should be raised from the 
ground on four-inch foundations; be at least three feet 
wide to keep the skirts dry—for women suffer more 
from wet clothing in this way than men do ; should be 
laid with close joints to prevent grass growing between 
them, and the grass and weeds should be kept closely 
cut on each side. Where gravel or coal-ashes can be 
procured, spread three inches thick and rolled firmly, 
they make excellent paths. The surface should be 
rounded to give fall to the water and proper drains 
should be made on the sides. The disadvantage of 
these walks is that they will become covered with 
grass and weeds if neglected. But a good coating of 
cheap salt scattered over them will kill everything but 
the coarse crab-grass which appears in July, and boiling 
hot brine is needed for this bad weed. 
Cement paths are made of various materials, gravel, 
