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The Art of Cookery * 
\To drefs ortolans . 
SPIT them fideways, with a bay-leaf between ; bafte them 
with butter, and have fried crumbs of bread round the difh a 
Drefs quails the fame way. 
To drefs ruffs and reifs . 
THEY are Lincolnfhire birds, and you may fatten them as 
you do chickens, with white bread, milk and fugar : they feed 
faft, and will die in their fat if not killed in time: trufs them 
crofs-legged as you do a fnipe, fpit them the fame way, but you 
muft gut them, and you muft have good gravy in the difh thick¬ 
ened with butter and toaft under them. Serve them up quick. 
To drefs larks . 
SPIT them on a little bird-fpit, roaft them ; when enough, 
have a good many crumbs of bread fried, and throw all over 
them ; and lay them thick round the difh. 
Or they make a very pretty ragoo with fowls livers ; firft fry 
9 the larks and livers very nicely, then put them into fome good 
gravy to flew, juft enough for fauce, with a little red wine® 
Garnifti with lemon® 
To drefs plovers . 
TO two plovers take two artichoke-bottoms boiled, fome 
chefnuts roafted and blanched, fome fkirrets boiled, cut all very 
final], mix with it fome marrow or beef-fuet, the yolks of two 
hard eggs, chop all together, feafon with pepper, fait, nutmeg, 
and a little fweet-herbs, fill the bodies of the plovers, lay them in 
a fauce-pan, put to them a pint of gravy, a glafs of white wine, 
a blade or two ot mace, fome roafted chefnuts blanched, and ar¬ 
tichoke-bottoms cut into quarters, two or three yolks of eggs, 
and a little juice of lemon; cover them clofe, and let them ftew 
very foftly an hour. If you find the fauce is not thick enough, 
take a piece of butter rolled in flour, and put into the fauce, 
fhake it round, and when it is thick take up your plovers and 
pour the fauce over them. Garnifti with roafted chefnuts. 
Ducks are very good done this way. 
Or you may roaft your plovers as you do any other fowl, and 
have gravy-fauce in the difh. 
Or boil them in good celery-fauce, either white or brown, 
juft as you like. 
The fame way you may drefs wigeons. 
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