made Plain md Eafy. 103 
And as "to brown fauce, take great care no fat fwims at the 
top, but that it be all fmooth alike, and about as thick as good 
cream, and not to tafte of one thing more than another. As to 
pepper and fait, feafon to your palate, but do not put too much 
of either, for that will take away the fine flavour of every thing. 
As to moft made-difhes, you may put in what you think proper 
to enlarge it, or make it good ; as mufhrooms pickled, dried, 
frefh, or powdered ; truffles, morels, cocks-combs ftewed, ox 
palates cut in little bits, artichoke-bottoms, either pickled, freili 
boiled, or dried ones foftened in warm water, each cut in four 
pieces, afparagus»tops, the yolks of hard eggs, force-meat balls, 
&c. The beft things to give a fauce a tartnefs, are mufhroom- 
pickle, white walnut-pickle, elder vinegar, or lemon juice. 
CHAP. III. 
Read this Chapter, and you will find how expen- 
live a French cook’s fauce is. 
tfhe French zvay of dr effing partridges . 
WHEN they are newly pickled and drawn, finge them: you 
muft mince their livers with a bit of butter, fome feraped bacon, 
green truffles, if you have any, parfley, chimbol, fait, pepper, 
fweet-herbs, and all-fpice, The whole being minced together, 
put it into the infide of your partridges,then flop both ends ofthem, 
after which give them a fry in the ftew-pan ; that being done, 
fpit them, and wrap them up in dices of bacon and paper ; then 
take a ftew-pan, and having put in an onion cut into dices, a 
carrot cut into little bits, with a little oil, give them a few tofles 
over the fire ; then moiften them with gravy, cuilis, and a little 
offence of ham. Put therein half a lemon cut into flices, four 
cloves of garlic, a little fweet bafil, thyme, a bay-leaf, a little 
parfley, chimbol, two glades of white wine, and four of the car- 
caffes of the partridges ; let them be pounded, and put them in 
this fauce. When the fat of your cuilis is taken away, be care¬ 
ful to make it relifhing ; and after your pounded livers are put 
into your cuilis, you muft ftrain them through a fieve. Your 
partridges being done, take them off; as alfo take off the bacon 
and paper, and lay them in your di£h with your fauce over them. 
This difh I do not recommend ; for I think it an odd jumble 
of trafh; by that time the cuilis, the effence of ham, and all 
other ingredients are reckoned, the partridges will come to a 
H 4 line 
