318 The Art of Cookery * 
A bacon hog . 
THIS is cut different, becaufe of making ham, bacon, and 
pickled pork. Here you have fine fpare-ribs, chines, and grif- 
kins, and fat for hog’s lar.d. The liver and crow is much ad¬ 
mired fried with bacon; the feet and ears are both equally 
good foufed. 
Pork comes in feafon at Bartholemew-tide, and holds good 
till Lady-day. 
How to chufe Butcher's Meat*; 
To chufe lamb . 
IN a fore-quarter of lamb mind the neck-vein ; if it be ari 
azure blue it is new and good, but if greenifh or yellowifli, it 
is near tainting, if not tainted already. In the hinder-quarter, 
fmell under the kidney, arid try the knuckle; if you meet with 
a faint fcent, and the knuckle be limber, it is ftale killed. For 
a lamb’s head, mind the eyes ; if they be funk or wrinkled, it 
is ftale; if plump and lively, it is new and fweeu 
Veal . 
IF the bloody vein in the fhoulder looks blue* ora bright red 5 
it is new killed ; but if blackifh, greenifh, or yellowifh, it is 
flabby and ftale ; if wrapped in wet cloths, fmell whether it be 
mufty or not. The loin firft taints under the kidney, and the 
flefh, if ftale killed, will be foft and flimy. 
The breaft and neck taints firft at the upper-end, and you 
will perceive fome dufky, yellowifh, or greenifh appearance ; 
the fweetbread on the breaft will be clammy, otherwife it isfrefh 
and good. 'The leg is known to be new by the ftiffnefs of the 
joint; if limber and the flefh feems clammy, and has green or 
yellowifh fpecks, ’tis ftale. The head is known as the lamb’s. 
The flefh of a bull-calf is more red and firm than that of a cow- 
calf, and the fat more hard and curdled* 
Mutton . 
IF the mutton be young, the flefh will pinch tender; if old, 
it will wrinkle and remain fo ; if young, the fat will eafily part 
from the lean ; if old, it will flick by firings and fkins : if ram- 
mutton, the fat feels fpungy, the flefli clofe grained and tough, 
not rifing again, when dented with your finger ; if ewe-mutton, 
the flefh is paler than weather-mutton, a clofer grain, and 
eafily parting. If there be a rot, the flefh will be palifh, and the 
fat a faint whitifh, inclining to yellow, and the flefli will be loofe 
at the bone. If you fqueeze it hard, fome drops of water will 
4 ftand 
