made Plain and Eajy. 319 
ftand up like fweat; as to the newnefs and ftalenefs, the fame is 
to be obferved as by lamb. 
Beef. 
IF it be right ox beef, it will have an open grain; if young* 
a tender and oily fmoothnefs : if rough and fpungy, it is old, or 
inclining to be fo, except neck, brifcuit, and fuch parts as are 
very fibrous, which in young meat will be more rough than in 
other parts. A carnation pleafant colour betokens good (pend¬ 
ing meat, the fuet a curious white, yellowifhis not fo good. 
Cow-beef is lefs bound and clofer grained than the ox, the fat 
whiter, but the lean fomewhat paler; if young, the dent you 
make with your finger will rife again in a little time. 
Bull-beef is of a clofer grain, deep dufky red, tough in pinch¬ 
ing, the fat fkinnv, hard, and has a rammifh rank fine]] ; and 
for newnefs and ftalenefs, this flefh bought frefti has but few 
figns, the more material is its clamminefs, and the reft your 
fmell will inform you. If it be bruifed, thefe places will look 
more dufky or blackifh than the reft. 
Pork. 
IF it be young, the lean will break in pinching between your 
fingers, and if you nip the fkin with your nails, it will make a 
dent ; alfo if the fat be foft and pulpy, in a manner like lard ; if 
the lean be tough, and the fat flabby and fpungy, feeling rough* 
it is old; efpecially if the rind be ftubborn, and you cannot 
nip it with your nails. 
If of a boar, though young, or of a hog gelded at full growth, 
the fltfli will be hard, tough, reddifh, and rammifh of fmell; 
the fat (kinny and hard ; the (kin very thick and tough, and 
pinched up will immediately fall again. 
As for old and new killed, try the legs, hands, and fprings, 
by putting your finger under the bone that comes out; for if it 
be tainted, you will there find it by fmelling your finger; befides 
the skin will be fweaty and clammy when ftale, but cool and 
fmooth when new. 
If you find little kernels in the fat of the pork, like hail-fhot; 
if many ’tis meafly, and dangerous to be eaten. 
How to chufe brawn , venifon y Weftphalia hams , &V. 
BRAWN is known to be old or young, by the extraordinary 
or moderate thicknefs of the rind ; the thick is old, the moderate 
is young. If the rind and fat be very tender, it is not boar-brawn, 
but barrow or fow. 
Venifon . 
