3 2 a 
The Art of Cookery , 
Venifon. 
TRY the haunches or fhoulders under the bones that come 
out, with your finger or knife, and as thefcent is fweetor rank. 
It is new or ftale ; and the like of the fides in the moft fleihy 
parts : if tainted they will look greenifh in fome places, or more 
than ordinary black. Look on the hoofs, and if the clefts are 
very wide and tough, it is old ; if clofe and fmooth, it is 
young. 
The feafon for venifon , 
* THE buck venifon begins in May, and is in high feafon till 
All-Hallow’s-day; the doe is in feafon from Michaelmas to the 
end of December, or fometimes to the end of January. 
Weftpbalia hams and Englifh bacon. 
PUT a knife under the bone that flicks out of the ham, and 
If it comes out in a manner clean, and has a curious flavour, it is 
fweet and good ; if much fmeared and dulled, it is tainted or rufty® 
Englifh gammons are tried the fame way; and for other parts 
try the fat; if it be white, oily in feeling, does not break or 
crumble, good ; but if the contrary, and the lean has fome little 
ftreaks of yellow, it is rufty, or will foon be fo. 
To chufe butter , cheefe , and eggs . 
WHEN you buy butter, truft not to that which will be given 
you to tafle, but try in the middle, and if your fmell and tafte be 
good, you cannot be deceived. 
Cheefe is to be chofen by its tnoift and fmooth coat; if old 
cheefe be rough coated, rugged, or dry at top, beware of little 
worms or mites. If it be over full of holes, moift or fpungy, it 
is fubje£t to maggots. If any foft or perifhed place appear on 
the outfide, try how deep it goes, for the greater part may be 
hid within. 
Eggs, hold the great end to your tongue ; if it feels warm, be 
fure it is new; if cold, it is bad, and fo in proportion to the heat 
and cold, fo is the goodnefs of the egg. Another way to know 
a good egg is to put the egg into a pan of cold water, the frefher 
the egg the fooner it will fall to the bottom ; if rotten, it will 
fwim at the top. This is alfo a fure way not to be deceived. 
As to the keeping of them, pitch them all with the fmall end 
downwards in fine wooden-afhes, turningthem once a week end¬ 
ways, and they will keep fome months. 
Poultry in feafon . 
JANUARY. Hen turkeys, capons, pullets with eggs, fowls, 
chickens, hares, all forts of wild fowl, tame rabbits and tame 
pigeons, February. 
