324 0/ Cookery * 
In this quarter are fine fmelts, and hold till after Chriftma^ 
There are two forts of mullets* the fea-tnullet and river-* 
mullet, both equally good. 
Chrijtmas quarter • 
DOREY, brile, gudgeons, gollin, fmetis, crouch, perch, 
anchovy and loach* fcollop and wilks, periwinkles, cockles, 
mufiels, gcare, bearbet and hollebet. 
How to cbufe fi/h. 
To chuje falmon , pike, trout, carp, tench, grailing, barbel, chub , 
ruff, eel, whiting , fmelt, £*fc. 
ALL thefe are known to be new or ftale by the colour of 
their gills, their eafincfs or hardnefs to open, the hanging or 
keeping up their fins, the {landing out or finking of their eyes* 
&c. and by fmelling their gills. 
* Turbot . 
HE is chofen by his thicknefs and plumpnefs; and if his belly 
be of a cream colour, he mult fpend well ; but if thin, and his 
belly of a bluifti white, he will eat very loofe. 
Cod and codling . 
CHUSE him by his thicknefs towards his head, and thfc white* 
nefs of his flelh when it is cut : and fo of a codling. 
Lyng. 
FOR dried lyng, chufe that which is thickeft in the poll, and 
the fleih of the brighteft yellow. 
Scate and thornback . 
THESE are chofen by their thicknefs, and the {lie-fcate is 
the fweeteft, efpeeially if large. 
SoalL 
THESE are chofen by their thicknefs and ftiffnefs; whe*a 
their bellies are of a cream colour, they fpend the firmer. 
Sturgeon . 
IF it cuts without crumbling, and the veins and grifttes give 
a true blue where they appear, and the fleih a perfe£l white, 
then conclude it to be good. 
Frejh herrings and mackrel. 
IF their gills are of a lively fhining rednefs, their eyes Hand 
full, and the fi(h is ftiff, then they are new; but if dufky and 
faded, or finking and wrinkled, and tails limber, they are Hale, 
hobfiers . 
CHUSE them by their weight; the heavieft are beft, if no wa- 
7 ter 
