256 
THE LADIES' FLORAL CABINET. 
be of positive colors—white, scarlet and yellow—then the 
effect is decidedly pleasing. 
The Narcissus, in importance, is next in order. 
Fashion is giving it the front rank, but as we are not 
bound by her dictates, we give it the position to which we 
think it entitled. It is a mistake to keep these bulbs out 
of ground longer than is necessary, and those intended 
for pot culture should be put in promptly. The Double 
Roman and Paper White naturally come into bloom in 
advance of other sorts, and these should be selected for 
the earliest display. Give them a rich, porous soil and 
pot them rather firmly, but not so firmly as to render it 
impossible for the roots to penetrate, or they will raise 
the bulb out of the soil. Place them in a cool spot, cov¬ 
ered with some material to keep the bulbs in their places, 
and to prevent the foliage from starting prematurely. 
When top-growth commences, the pots can be given their 
position in the conservatory or window-garden. A suc¬ 
cession can be kept up until flowers appear in the open 
border by bringing the pots in at intervals. Flowers can 
be obtained more rapidly if bottom heat can be given 
them as soon as the buds appear. We will say for the 
comfort of those who do not have these appliances, that 
the flowers grown without artificial aid will be fully equab 
if not superior, to those grown with it. 
Narcissi may also be grown in glasses in the manner 
recommended for hyacinths, and there are no bulbs that 
surpass them for this special treatment. 
In the open ground the narcissus should be planted in 
quantity, especially in those spots where it appears natur¬ 
ally at home, such as under the shade of trees and in 
shrubbery borders. There is now an awakened interest 
in the many forms of double and single daffodils, and 
they are certainly most effective border flowers. All the 
varieties of narcissus should be grown in clumps and 
patches in every spot which is suitable and vacant. In 
any out-of-the-way place large quantities of N. poeticus 
and other varieties should be planted for a supply of cut- 
flowers. Their graceful appearance renders them pecu¬ 
liarly valuable for this purpose, and if cut when partially 
opened they will develop in water, and last for many 
days. In planting be guided by the size of the bulb, al¬ 
lowing four or five inches between small sorts, and six to 
eight inches between large varieties. A good feature of 
the narcissus is that plantings may remain undisturbed 
for many years, and annually improve in the quantity and 
quality of the bloom. 
The Crocus. —Several flowers bloom in advance of, 
or as early as, the crocus, but no other bulb can compare 
with it for brightness and effective coloring. Plant not 
later than during this month; if left longer out of ground 
the germs become dry, and if they make any growth it is 
an unsatisfactory one. The bulbs should be planted in 
groups or rows for a border, at a uniform depth of three 
inches, and about one inch apart. 
For indoor decoration two or three separate lots should 
be potted, or as many as may be required for a succession, 
and brought forward the same as the hyacinths. For 
this purpose named sorts should be used, both for the 
size of their flowers and for the exceptional brightness 
and diversity of their colors. Use a light, rich soil, and 
put four or five bulbs in a six-inch pot. They may also 
be grown to advantage in large seed-pans or shallow 
boxes; in fact, they will grow anywhere and make inter¬ 
esting* house plants. 
Crown Imperials are rarely met in our gardens, the 
only place where they can be grown to advantage, and 
where their stately forms should always be found. This 
bulb requires a rich, loamy soil and an open position to 
bring it to perfection. Still, it will do fairly well in a 
shrubbery border or under the shade of trees. Plant in 
September if possible, and under no circumstances later 
than October. 
Snowdrops are about the earliest spring flowers, cer¬ 
tainly the most lovely, and particularly desirable because 
of their willingness to bloom under almost any circum¬ 
stances. It seriously injures the roots of this exquisite 
little favorite to keep them long out of ground, therefore 
plant them as early as possible. The proper way to 
plant the snowdrop is in masses, either in long lines or in 
clumps, and to contrast with it make alternate rows or 
groups of that beautiful little blue Scilla Siberica. Plant 
two inches deep, and, if possible, where they may remain 
undisturbed for many years. In moist, shaded places 
they will form dense masses, completely driving out all 
other herbaceous vegetation. 
Iris. —The tuberous varieties are all hardy, and may 
be planted any time before the ground freezes. Plant 
three inches deep in light soil, and they will give no trou¬ 
ble except to divide the clumps every second or third year. 
SEPTEMBER FLOWERS. 
G ERANIUMS are blooming less than they did before 
the recent rains came. Scarlet salvias from seed 
sown last spring are in their prime ; the pale-blue 5 . 
farhiosa, also from seed, has been in good bloom for 
over two months, and Pitcher’s salvia, which is the finest 
of blue sages, is just beginning to bloom. We winter it 
in a cold frame, and increase it by means of seeds, cut¬ 
tings or divisions. Dahlias raised from seeds or cuttings 
last spring are growing and blooming nicely; those from 
old roots set out in May are not blooming as well as the 
others. Gladioli from late June plantings are at their 
best; our July plantings will yield us flowers till frost 
comes. Hyacinthus candicans is in good bloom. We 
should raise a young stock from seed every year as the 
old bulbs get “run out.” Asclepias nivia is a little, 
white-blooming, tender species that blossoms all summer 
long and does well in light sandy land. I raise a fresh 
stock from cuttings every year. Verbenas are reinvigor¬ 
ated and blooming freely. They love good soil. Com¬ 
mon balsams from May sowings are as full as they can 
