years is impossible. Growers of strictly commercial Glacis find that certain sorts sell 
well for several years and others which seemed possessed with just as many attributes 
fail to find a market. 
As I feature the newer varieties of Glads in my planting, it should be understood in 
reading the descriptions in this catalogue that they are merely the present impressions 
of one individual in many cases and that they may be radically revised after two or three 
more seasons. Some Glads that appear especially outstanding now may prove inferior in 
succeeding years and others that offer little premise now may exhibit qualities as yet 
unseen. And it can only be conjectured as to how many varieties will perform under 
different soil, climatic, and cultural conditions than prevail here. In descriptions of 
varieties rather generally grown, I shall in some cases consult the opinions of other 
growers but little data is available regarding some of the newer and more rare kinds. 
With the ever increasing planting of seedlings, it becomes increasingly difficult to 
make complete notes on all the named varieties at blooming time, and for this reason, 
among others, a somewhat different method of description will be used than formerly. 
1 shall dispense with the tables used in the last few issues of the catalogue and give a 
more informal description of the varieties. As before, the description will be based on the 
performance of the Glads in the field, and while last summer was perhaps the hottest and 
one of the driest on record for Oregon, the blooms were quite as good as usual as more 
water was available at the proper times for irrigating. 
It has been customary to drop a good many varieties every year to make room for 
new varieties added to my collection and it is probable that still more will be dropped 
next year to allow more time for seedlings. It should not be inferred that all the varieties 
discontinued are inferior but they are omitted merely because I am faced with the neces¬ 
sity of cutting down the number of named sorts or ceasing to grow seedlings so exten¬ 
sively. 
CuSture 
Believing that most of my customers are not novices in the growing of Glads but are 
ardent “fans”, I shall not go into detail regarding all the phases of growing and exhibiting 
as most of you perhaps know as much or more about this than myself. For those who may 
be less experienced, a few brief notes may not be out of place. 
First, good clean healthy bulbs should be obtained of a reliable grower, for one 
cannot expect good results from badly diseased and thrips-infested bulbs as occasionally 
offered. Next, the selection of a planting site is important. One does not require the best 
of soil to grow Glads but to obtain the finest flowers, fertile soil is essential. If the 
amount of ground available is limited and must be used year after year, all bulbs should 
be treated before planting to guard against any possible contamination of the soil. Treat¬ 
ing of the bulbs is recommended in any case but it is especially advised if bulbs must be 
planted on the same soil several years in succession. Bichloride of mercury solution may 
be used at the rate of one ounce to seven gallons of water and soak for about four to six 
hours or until the husk is penetrated. 
The planting should be away from trees and shrubs and from the foundations of 
buildings. Glads should have sun at least a part of the day. Grown in partial shade they 
are inclined to grow taller than otherwise. The soil should be thoroughly worked and 
pulverized to a depth of at least eight or ten inches. If it is heavy, it is advisable to add 
sand or peat moss. Peat moss and leaf mold are beneficial to sandy soils. Bulbs should 
be planted four to six inches deep, depending on the texture of the soT and size of the 
bulb—large bulbs and light soil requiring the deeper planting for best results. Fertilizing 
aids materially but no fertilizer should come in direct contact with the bulbs. Well rotted 
manure applied the fall before planting or sheep guano spread on the surface during the 
growing season are advised. 
After the bulbs are planted, the soil should be kept well cultivated and free from 
weeds until blooming time. Except in a few favored places, watering aids materially and 
a good drenching once every week or ten days is far better than sprinkling the surface 
every day or two. 
For growing exhibition spikes, it is well to plant large bulbs in most varieties and 
remove the husk before planting. If all but one eye is dug out of the bulb before planting, 
the strength will all go into one stalk and thus make a bigger spike. This should be done 
particularly with those varieties which are described as dividing up badly such as 
Mammoth White. When the plants are in bud it is well to stake the spikes. 
Digging the bulbs may be done any time after September 15th or October 1st in most 
localities. Tops should be cut off near the bulb and after drying three or four weeks, the 
old bulb and roots may be removed and the bulbs stored in a dry cool place where there 
is no danger of freezing. 
4 
