Thrips 
Thrips have possibly had a larger part in discouraging many people from growing 
Glads the past few years than has the depression. Their inroads in certain sections have 
been so devastating that a great number of “fans” temporarily lost interest. With better 
methods of control and the natural disappearance of the pest in many places, the interest 
in Glads is again being revived. The best method of attack is to treat all bulbs for thrips 
during the winter and the simplest and one of the surest methods is the naphthalene 
treatment. At first some bulbs were damaged by leaving them in containers nearly air¬ 
tight with the naphthalene flakes until planting time and such practice will result in 
injured bulbs. Where all naphthalene is removed from direct contact with the bulbs after 
two or three weeks there is little danger of injury. Gas treatments should be left to 
commercial growers. My own stock is being treated with calcium cyanide as a precau¬ 
tionary measure. 
Where clean bulbs are planted, there is little danger of infestation until late in the 
season when the insects may come in from neighboring gardens. There are many spray 
preparations on the market and one of the products advertised may be used if it becomes 
necessary to spray. Not having been bothered with thrips the past few years, I have not 
had occasion to spray and while there are many sprays recommended, I do not know that 
any one is much better than the others. 
THE INCREASE FROM ONE BULB OF SEEDLING NO. 31C232/3, 
2 BULBS AND 3024 BULBLETS. 
Bulblets 
Many fans prefer buying bulblets of the newer varieties of Glads. While they cannot 
expect blooms, or good ones at least, the first year, they can get a start with a greater 
number of varieties. Some varieties are very difficult to germinate and others grow as 
easily as bulbs. Some make large bulblets and others never do. Bulblets bought in 
quantity are of average size but in the case of novelties, I aim to send out the largest size 
bulblets as long as they last and should they be sold out, I give better count of the larger 
ones that I have left. In the case of all novelties I would advise that the bulblet be shelled 
before planting. Cheaper varieties should be soaked a while before planting if known to 
be difficult in germinating. I do not guarantee all bulblets to grow as many varieties 
never give very good germination with the best of care; however, if they do not do 
reasonably well, I am glad to make an adjustment. 
New Varieties 
It may be of interest to some customers to offer a few suggestions as to the better 
new things aside from the general descriptions in the alphabetical listings. As reds seem 
to have been more improved the last few years than most other colors, a few of these 
will be given attention first. ALLEMANIA, ROTENBURG, AZALEA, and KASSEL are 
among the best reds turned out by Pfitzer. The former is perhaps the largest red on the 
market. Rotenburg is one of the most beautiful. JAMES FITZJAMES is one of the best 
in color, form, size, and growth. WHERO, the famous new variety from New Zealand, is a 
beautiful deep rich shade. Several new reds not yet released look very good. Among 
these are NINTH SYMPHONIE, OEGANDA, WELLINGTON, and MAC. 
In yellows we still have room for improvement but in the medium shades GOLDEN 
GODDESS and YELLOW EMPEROR are among the best. The first excels in form, spike, 
and number open and the latter is an improved YELLOW PERFECTION. ZAUBERIN 
and GENERAL BALBO are good ruffled yellows. PRAIRIE GOLD, JONQUIL, GOLDEN 
POPPY, and GOLDEN FLEECE are among the best deep yellows. Prairie Gold and 
Golden Poppy are deep golden yellows with a hint of orange. Jonquil is not a large 
flower but of exceptionally deep clear yellow color and attractive form. Golden Fleece 
is perhaps a little larger than the others and a fine clear deep color. 
