24 
Lakeview Ponds, Mt. Airy, Cincinnati— 1892-1936 
Forty-Fourth Year 
Heating and Aerating Equipment 
W HERE Tropical Fish are subject to a fluctuating tempera¬ 
ture which may go below 65 degrees at night, it is 
advisable to use an automatic electric heater. They 
consume very little current and help keep the fish in good 
health by preventing chills. 
We list several sizes which 
are quite inexpensive. All are 
guaranteed for one year. For 
average home conditions we 
recommend these sizes: 25 
Watt for tanks 4 to 6 gallons; 
40 Watt for tanks 6 to 9 gal¬ 
lons; 75 Watt for tanks 10 to 
15 gallons. Two or more 
heaters for larger tanks. 
NOTE — At times a new 
heater will smoke first 15 
minutes in use. Do not dis¬ 
connect it, as it will stop in 
15 minutes or so. Add 15c 
per heater if wanted by 
Parcel Post. 
CHROMIUM PLATED AQUARIUM HEATERS 
No. 1. (Not Automatic)—25 Watt.Each, 
No. 2. (Not Automatic)—40 Watt.Each, 1.00 
No. 3. (Not Automatic)—75 Watt.Each, 1.00 
THERMOSTAT No. 1, to regulate up to 300 Watts of 
the above heaters.Each, 1.75 
AUTOMATIC AQUARIUM HEATERS—Two-piece automatic. 
Heater in a chormium-plated tube. Thermostat in a glass tube. 
(Formerly our No. 4A.) 
No. 1A. (Automatic)—25 Watt.Each, $2.00 
No. 2A. (Automatic)—40 Watt.Each, 2.00 
No. 3A. (Automatic)—75 Watt.Each, 2.00 
No. 12A. Chromium-plated one-piece heater with 
thermostat built in. Furnished in size 40 
or 75 Watt. Specify size wanted. (For¬ 
merly our No. 3A).Each, 2.50 
THE ACE AQUARIUM HEATER (Automatic) —Latest type 
chromium plated heater, waterproof and adjustable. Can be 
used under water, on the bottom, or at the side ot aquarium. 
Thermostat easily attached to side of aquarium, and contains 
a VISIBLE BUILT-IN THERMOMETER. 
Furnished in two sizes. 40 watt for tanks 2 to 10 gallons, 
75 watt for tanks 10 to 20 gallons. Specify size...Each, $2.50 
The Marco Pump 
A ERATION of Tropical Fish Aquariums is necessary if they 
are in any way over-crowded, and especially during 
periods of dull weather with no sunshine, for plants do 
not aerate the water without the sun, unless stimulated by 
electric light. With artificial aeration it is also possible to 
greatly increase the storage capacity of an aquarium. 
THE MARCO PUMP—This 
is an American-made pump 
built as an efficient piece of 
machinery, not a toy. It 
operates on 110-volt, 60-cycle 
ALTERNATING current only. 
(You can learn the kind of 
current you have by telephon¬ 
ing your local Electric Com¬ 
pany.) It is silent, efficient, 
self - starting, non - reversible, 
and cannot overheat even if 
stalled. The only care needed 
is to oil it once a week. No 
radio interference. Guaranteed 
one year and will -last con¬ 
siderably longer with average 
use. Unpainted aluminum 
chassis, size 5x6x5" high. 
This pump will automatically supply from 6 to 15 medium 
pressure air releases without adjustment. It will consume only 
about 10 kilowatt hours of current j>er month. Highly recom¬ 
mended for small breeders and for dealer use. 
Each, $12.50. 
THE JENSEN PUMP—An efficient American made pump 
which operates on the same principle as the above and is 
designed for 110-125 volt 60 cycle A.G. current only. It will 
supply from 6 to 12 ordinary air releases. 
Each, $9.00. 
AIREATOR STONES—These are small porous stones with 
a short attachment to insert in hose. The air is then released 
in the aquarium in a stream of fine bubbles. Two sizes. 
Small, 25c each. Medium, 40c each. 
CONTROL VALVES—Sma ! l valve with knurled adjusting 
screw to regulate the flow of air to each air release. 
Regular T form, (Style A), each, 45c. 
T plug to convert Style A Valve to one-way valve, each, 10c. 
Special Precision T form, (Style C), each, 85c. 
HOSE CLAMPS—Small knurled adjusting screw permits 
the hose to be clamped together to cut down air supply to 
proper amount. Very satisfactory if regulated after each shut 
down of pump. 
Each, 20c. 
METAL FITTINGS—Small fittings to connect to the hose. 
Metal T, each, 25c. 
Metal Cross T (X), each, 35c. 
RUBBER HOSE—Pure rubber tubing to fit valves, air 
stones, pumps, etc. 
12 feet for 50c. $3.50 per 100 feet. 
Some Notes on Keeping Goldfish 
I T IS possible to keep Goldfish in pools for several years 
without serious mortality; however, like all other creatures 
on this earth, they are subject to diseases and natural 
enemies. Some of the causes of trouble are not readily de¬ 
tected, but we list them here, as we believe it best to tell our 
customers what to be on the guard against, and how to prevent 
trouble before it gets a good start. (For Winter care of Goldfish 
m Pools, see Page 25.) 
WATCH THE TEMPERATURE—When transferring fish 
from tank to tank, whenever a difference in temperature exists, 
equalize it gradually. No definite rule for this can be given, 
but about 2 or 3 minutes per degree of difference would ordi¬ 
narily be sufficient time to equalize the temperature by gradual 
mixing, or by floating, in the case of Goldfish, but more time 
should be allowed in the case of Tropical Fish. 
KEEP FISH OUT OF SUN—Never allow Goldfish to stand 
in their cans overnight, or longer than necessary, or never in 
direct sunlight, and never next to or on a heater, unless 
watched carefully. 
WHITE FUNGUS—This is a Common Goldfish disease 
often caused by sudden change of temperature. It is mani¬ 
fested by the appearance of a whitish fungus on the tails or 
fins. It is contagious. Use one ounce of common salt per 
gallon of water and treat for several days, or use 4 drops of 
2 % mercurochrome to the gallon of water, or use 2 grains 
Permanganate of Potash to the gallon. Fish can be fed while 
being treated. The sickest ones should be thrown away. 
HEALTH DIP—If fish appear sluggish and swim slowly 
about the surface of the water in a very listless manner, give 
them a HEALTH DIP. The treatment we recommend is spe¬ 
cially useful in Spring after fish have come through the Winter 
in a weakened condition. Use Acetic Acid, 36% strength, in 
the proportion of three ounces to four gallons of water. Use 
a deep net, allow fish to remain in the solution 60 seconds 
only. This treatment causes a whitish appearance to fish 
when removed, but they will be much improved in a day. A 
second dip can be given about four days later. The tank 
should be thoroughly washed out. 
ICHTHIOPHTHIRIUS—Commonly called “Ick.” is a 
minute parasite covering body and fins which gives tlie fish an 
appearance of having been sprinkled with salt. This can be 
cured by adding 4 drops of 2% mercurochrome to the gallon of 
water, and holding temperature about 70 degrees. Tropical 
Fish are very susceptible to this disease when chilled. 
FISH LICE—Goldfish are at times troubled with a small 
sucking parasite % to %-inch diameter, which gets on tails 
and fins and causes irritation. During warm weather, in July 
and August, they multiply, but usually subside when cold 
weather comes. If your pool had an attack of these parasites 
the previous Summer we advise cleaning out the pool thorough¬ 
ly early in Spring and examining the fish before replacing in 
tiie pool. Fish lice, while not of themselves dangerous to the 
life of Goldfish, annoy them considerably and in time cause 
sore spots which may be attacked by fungus. The usual 
method of control is to examine each fish closely and remove 
the lice with a small tweezer, being careful not to remove any 
more of the slime from the fish than necessary. (The trans¬ 
parent natural slime that covers all fish acts as their outer 
skin to protect them from disease germs, etc.) If a pool has 
been affected by these parasites, we recommend draining it, 
washing off plants, etc., and removing the lice from fish by 
hand. After a bad case dry out the pool with sunlight for a 
few days. (SEE PAGE 26 FOR NEW REMEDY TO KILL FISH 
LICE. 
ANCHOR PARASITE—There is a species of Lernaea or 
Anchor Parasite, which attaches itself to the body of goldfish. 
The head is buried under the scales while the body protrudes 
as a small thread, later stiffening to a hard stalk about •%" 
long. The only known control is to remove, by pulling out. 
They appear in warm weather only, and are harmless to touch. 
DISINFECTING AQUARIUMS—To disinfect a diseased 
aquarium or as a precaution after regular cleaning, use com¬ 
mon salt on a clean rag. Then let tank dry out thoroughly for 
as long as you can spare it, flush out again before using and 
fill. A safety razor blade is fine for cleaning off scum from 
glass. In outside pools we recommcndsunlight and thorough 
drying out to disinfect after trouble of any kind. 
SEX IN GOLDFISH—The sex of young Goldfish is very 
difficult to determine. In adult fish at breeding season it is 
readily detected. The male has small granules (like small 
grains of sugar) on the gill plates and at times down the 
front rays of the two forward or pectoral fins. The gill plates 
of the female are always smooth. 
