134 TRAVELS THROUGH LOWER CANADA ! 
head-quarters while we remained in the 
neighbourhood, because there was a tolerable 
tavern, and no house in the village near the 
Falls, where sickness was not prevalent. 
The Falls of Niagara are much less difficult 
of access now, than they were some years ago. 
Charlevoix, who visited them in the year 1720, 
tells us, that they were only to be vievved from 
one spot; and that from thence the spectator 
had only a side prospect of them. Had he been 
able to have descended to the bottom, lie 
would have had ocular demonstration of the 
existence of caverns underneath the precipice, 
which he supposed to be the case from the 
hollow sound of the falling of the waters ; from, 
the number of carcases washed up there on 
different parts of the strand, and would also 
have been continced of the truth of a circum¬ 
stance which he totally disbelieved, namely, 
that fish were oftentimes unable to stem the 
rapid .current ab^ve the Fails, and were con¬ 
sequently carried down the precipice. 
The most favourable season for visiting the 
Falls is about the middle of September, the 
time when we saw them; for then the woods 
are seen in all their glory; beautifully variegat¬ 
ed with the rich tints of autumn; and the 
spectator is not then annoyed with vermin. 
In the summer season you meet with rattle¬ 
snakes at every step, and mosquitoes swafm so 
o 
