30 
The harden Magazine, March, 1923 
color, form, and beauty I’d never in my mind associated with 
the Chrysanthemums of the olden days, and which my grand¬ 
mother had called “Artemisias.” Buttons, Pompons—single 
and double—a beautiful array I had for two or three years until 
one adverse winter came which few of them survived. 
Under just what treatment they best withstand the winter is 
a question. If the winter be too open the frost may heave 
them out, and they’ll stand up on their tiptoes in the spring. 
Then, I pile some earth over their exposed anatomy, and after 
carefully loosening the surrounding soil, softly crowd the roots 
back into the ground. Often the superabundance of leaves 
from surrounding Oak trees covers them knee-deep and, if not 
pretty well removed before packed by snow and ice, the plants 
are smothered under this wet blanket. They seem to do best 
under just a moderate covering of leaves, which cover it is well 
to investigate occasionally, and if the plants begin to show 
yellow shoots, loosen up the leaf covering and allow some of it to 
blow away—not too early in spring, however, as another severe 
freeze may come, and the exposed, tender shoots be killed. Avoid 
the killing evil of “ wet feet ” by making the chrysanthemum bed 
an elevated one, especially if the soil is clay, and the ground low. 
To the few survivors of that trying winter, I began adding 
new plants from some of the fascinating catalogues which 
specialize in hardy Chrysanthemums. The new plants were set 
in an elevated bed that had been spaded with a liberal amount 
of manure the previous fall and left in the rough. Chrysanthe¬ 
mums require good food. If they have not the manured bed, 
then dig bonemeal, humus, or pulverized sheep manure around 
them in August. But don’t put bonemeal into the hole in which 
you set them! 1 did that one spring and killed the entire 
colony. Mistaken kindness burned the plants. Keep them 
well watered through a hot, dry summer. Water in early 
morning, or after sundown, never with sun shining upon them. 
With slender bamboo I stake the single plants before they 
grow high enough for wind to break or distort them, and to give 
needed support when heavy heads of flowers open and autumn 
winds play havoc. Where plants are in solid beds I drive a tall 
stake at each of the four corners, and if a long bed, a stake at 
required intervals along the sides. Attaching to one stake the 
end of a roll of poultry netting 12 or 18 inches in width, I walk 
around the bed, or row, holding the net firmly till 1 meet the 
other end, to which the required length is fastened by tying to 
the stakes with twine, and as the plants grow the net is shoved 
along up the stakes to confine and support the plants. It is 
best to perform this wiring trick when the plants are in their 
infancy, as it protects them from rabbits, and the neighbor’s 
cats and dogs. 
Recently a nurseryman demonstrated to me the manner in 
which to dwarf, or bush the plants when they are about 6 or 7 
inches high. At that height, the grower breaks off the top half 
of the plant—remains a stump-stalk possessing 3 or 4 leaves, 
which stalk proceeds to throw out laterals, and forms a bush 
that takes care of itself without staking. 
Early in September the display begins with Goacher’s Crim¬ 
son and Maduse, the latter a fine large amber flower. 1 like 
the big raggedy ones: Etoile d’Or and Cranfordia in yellow; 
Oconto, in white. There is a fine line of bronzes, of which Hilda 
Canning, Ruth Cumming, Alice Howell, Pauline Wilcox, Bronze 
Doty, Lelia, and Lorraine Meech are a few that grace my gdrden 
with Gloria, Lillian Doty (of course) and Kitty Riches, in pinks; 
Golden Climax and Becky McLane being the stand-bys in 
buttons. These are but a few of the real garden Chrysanthe¬ 
mums obtainable from reputable nurseries. I’ve quantities 
belonging to the “no name series,” and a beautiful quilled one 
that strolled in with other seedlings, and which we adopted 
under the name of “ Smithsonia.” Gather an armful of Chry¬ 
santhemums and, if you change the water daily, they remain 
beautiful for fully a week. By that time sun and wind have 
wrought a gradual change in the outdoor supply, and from the 
same plants you may gather a new bouquet, softer of hue, but 
quite as lovely in its pastel coloring as those gathered a week 
earlier. Half open buds will develop indoors a perfection not 
attained if left out through wind and rain. 
Every spring I find little Chrysanthemum plants coming up 
from seeds the wind has blown from uncut flowers that managed 
someway to ripen. Carefully these seedlings are lifted and re¬ 
planted in an experimental garden with the hardy Phlox seed¬ 
lings, and often they develop a new form or color that entitles 
them to a place of honor when returned to the garden proper— 
if one can call it a proper garden where wild Violets, Phlox, 
Spring-beauties, Hepatica, and Jack-in-the-pulpits are not only 
permitted, but encouraged to make themselves at home. 
LARGE-FLOWERED AND POMPON CHRYSANTHEMUMS IN THE CITY GARDEN 
Chrysanthemums of all kinds flourish bravely even in such restricted areas and, 
disregarding all difficulties, flaunt gay faces through the weeks of autumn 
