The Garden Magazine, March, 1923 
Mattie Edwards Hewitt , Photo . 
“WHEN THE BROW OF 
JUNE IS CROWNED BY 
THE ROSE” 
Ramblers and Bush types create 
with their fragrance and free¬ 
hearted flowering a scene of al¬ 
most fairy-like festivity. Gar¬ 
den of Mrs. Fintey Shepard 
at Irvington-on-Hudson, N. Y 
California grown stock, and it is my observation that such plants 
rarely do well after the first year in Northern gardens for they 
are grown under conditions that produce a wood of loose and 
coarse fibre which decreases their vitality and hardiness when 
transported to more trying climes. Best purchase from a 
nurseryman growing his stock under conditions that are as 
similar as possible to those of the locality in which the Roses are 
to be used—but this does not necessarily imply that the plants 
must be locally grown—far from it, indeed. 
Dormant stock is best for outdoor planting because it has 
been field grown and has already survived one winter, and the 
roots can be spread out enabling the plants to absorb sufficient 
nourishment to grow rapidly and produce numbers of flowers. 
Plants from pots often have the roots worked into a ball to per¬ 
mit placing in the pot, and they acquire the form of this compact 
space and do not spread readily and sometimes not at all. 
Some plants taken up three years after being set had the roots in 
practically the same form as when planted. 
Few Roses are grown on their own roots for the total experi¬ 
ence of gardeners is that they are stronger and hardier when 
budded on wild or semi-wild stock. On budded plants the bud is 
the branch just below where the stem was cut off at some prior 
time; and it is important that this be understood for this point 
governs the depth to which the plant is to be set. On most 
plants it is the custom to set them one or two inches deeper than 
they were previously but in planting Roses the bud is to be set 
two to three inches below the surface of the bed. This discour 
ages the growth of suckers though they will occasionally appear, 
and when one does push up it should be cut off immediately. 
If the plants are not set deeply the suckers will be more nu¬ 
merous and as they are generally of stronger growth than 
the finely hybridized cion they will take the strength of the 
plant to such extent that the bud dies and the Rose becomes 
“wild.” If the suckers are kept down a Rose never “reverts” 
to type. 
Pruning When Planting 
W HEN planting, prune the tops to two or three buds and 
in cutting the flowers it is better to cut long stems even 
if some lateral branches are thus sacrificed. 1 hese branches 
might produce flowers but the stems would be short. By cut¬ 
ting the flower with long stems, new growth will start low down, 
producing more long-stemmed flowers and the appearance of the 
bed is improved by keeping the growth low. 
For freedom of bloom, Roses require considerable moisture 
and during a period of dry weather water them as the rain does, 
by wetting the earth to a depth of four or five inches and letting 
this answer for a few days. If the beds are raked frequently a 
dust mulch is created that helps retain the moisture. Light 
soil requires more water but a well prepared bed obviates the 
necessity of constant sprinkling. 
The Trials and Tribulations 
R OSE-BUGS are the worst insects that attack the plant. 
They can be controlled by putting on a full strength 
stream of water through a hose in the morning. This destroys 
