The Garden Magazine, March, 1923 
17 
Continue propagation of Chrysanthemums and bedding stock, as 
cuttings are available. 
Complete progagation of Carnations as soon as possible, now that the 
days are getting brighter, which makes rooting more difficult— 
make the most of every opportunity to get a “crack of fresh air” 
on the ventilators. Warm weather brings swarms of thrips. 
Look out for them, spray and fumigate. 
Pot on bedding stock propagated from cuttings last fall and space out 
on the benches as they show signs of crowding. 
Alternantheras may stiU be rooted in sand. Divide up plants wintered 
over in flats; put out in a gentle hotbed, where they will make fine 
plants for setting out at the end of May. 
Root cuttings of Alyssum saxatile. Divide up old plants of Erfordi, 
Luminosa, and Chatelaine Begonias; repot the pieces, or cut 
back, and take cuttings from the new basal growths. 
Make cuttings from stock plants of Hydrangeas saved for this purpose; 
or from the basal growths of those being forced into flower at this 
time. Take cuttings of Marguerites and Heliotrope. 
In Greenhouse and Hotbed 
[Full advantage of these directions is only possible with a greenhouse, 
but so far as opportunity allows they also apply to hotbeds ] 
The important job is to “prick-off” the seedlings that are large enough 
to handle. Use plenty of leaf mold and sand. Cover the sur¬ 
face of the soil in the flats with a layer of sand; then prick-off the 
little plants. This carries away the water from around the stems, 
and to a great extent prevents “damping-off.” Give shade until 
re-established, then exposure to full light, and sunshine to ensure 
sturdy, stocky plants. 
Sow Sweet-peas in small pots for planting outdoors next month. 
Pansies and Forget-me-nots brought in from frames will flower 
by the holidays in a temperature of 50°. 
Keep the Rambler Roses growing in a temperature of 6o°. Avoid 
direct draughts of cold air, or mildew will result. 
Give Lilies subject to high temperature plenty of water, and feed oc¬ 
casionally with liquid manure. Stake the plants. 
Stake up the Snapdragons, and remove side shoots. The side growths 
make good cuttings. Put them into the propagating bench. 
Start fancy-leaved Caladiums for decorative purposes in sandy soil 
with gentle bottom heat. 
Look over vines, such as Ivies, Vincas, etc., saved from the window 
boxes and baskets last fall; repot if needed. 
Thunbergia is a useful climbing plant. Sow the seeds now. Also 
seeds of the Castor-bean. 
Repot Dracena indivisa that are pot bound; or top-dress. 
Early flowering indoor Sweet-peas should have a rich top-dressing of 
well decayed manure. Acid phosphate and sulphate of ammonia, 
an ounce to a gallon of water, is a good stimulant, but should be 
used with care. 
A heavy mulching of old cow manure will greatly benefit the Roses 
planted out in the benches at this time. Don’t use fresh horse 
manure; it will burn. Place a covering of loam over the bare roots 
before using the manure. Look after the young Roses, use care in 
watering; and keep them free from black spot. Bank the fire 
early on sunny days. 
Spireas will be showing color in the flower spikes at this time. Space 
them well apart so that the foliage may develop evenly, and to 
prevent it damping off as it very readily does when crowded. 
Water copiously, but have the foliage dry before night. Place saucers 
under the pots, and keep these filled with water. 
Start at intervals small batches of Godfrey Calla, Gloxinias, and the 
little blue Achimenes, for summer flowering. 
Gardenias may still be rooted provided one has plenty of bottom heat. 
They require a closed propagating case to root well. Pot when 
rooted, and carry along in pots until they are transferred to the 
benches where they are to flower. Use light porous soil, with 
plenty of leaf mold in it. 
Poinsettias through flowering may be laid on their sides under a bench 
free from drip, and dried off. 
Start tuberous Begonias in gentle heat, potted or in flats. 
Peaches and Nectarines will be in bloom this month. Encourage 
fertilization bv the admission of fresh air and sunshine on every 
favorable occasion. Tie in the young shoots of early started 
vines as required. 
Maintain a free buoyant atmosphere. Accommodate Primulas, 
Cinerarias, Cyclamen, and similar flowering plants now in bloom, 
with a light position on the north side of a cool house. 
Give more air as the days become warmer to Bay-trees, Oleanders, 
specimen Hydrangeas, and similar plants now in storage. As 
soon as occasion offers place outdoors, give a thorough hosing; 
retub, or top-dress as required. 
Procure Lilium speciosum for summer blooming now, pot into five-or 
six-inch pots, and grow cool; useful for brightening the show 
house or conservatory. 
At this time of the year bulb stock requires 20-25 days from the time of 
being brought indoors until flowers open. Double Tulips take a 
little longer. Figure your supply accordingly. 
Cut a few sprays of Forsythia, and Pussy Willow; place in a green¬ 
house, or warm dwelling for very early blossoming. 
TRY YOUR HAND AT CUT FLOWER ARRANGEMENT 
Announcing a Photographic Competition 
fEimHE real end of the gardener’s efforts after all is not always 
the growing of a plant to its successful blooming. There yet 
§§$*;,*■£, remains the use of the product, even as the vegetable grower’s 
WpUP ultimate trial lies on the dinner table; and flowers are largely 
'Irlf grown for cutting and for decorative uses in the home. Prof. 
White’s concise explanation (August G. M., pages 352-356) of the 
principles and application of the much-talked-of method of Japanese 
cut-flower arrangement must be very helpful to our readers; also his 
scholarly article on “Decorating Artistically with Flowers” in the 
October issue, pages 80-84. 
The proper use of the flowers after they are grown has a strong appeal 
to the housekeeper, and the public interest in table decoration displays 
at the big flower shows is evident proof of their popular appeal. 
To stimulate more thoughtful household use of flowers, The Garden 
Magazine offers awards for photographs of attractive and distinctive 
arrangements displaying genuine harmony of flower and vase. The 
importance o’f the right receptable cannot be over-emphasized, for the 
loveliest of blooms may utterly lose effect if jammed into an unsuitable 
holder — fancy Pansies in a bud-vase, by way .of extreme example, or 
flame-colored Tulips in a cerise dish. Size, shape, and color of the 
receptacle are prime considerations when using flowers decoratively. 
The following prizes are offered for successful arrangements: 
The Prizes: 
1st: Fifty dollar Flower Vase in silver (by Caldwell), suitably 
engraved. 
2nd: Garden Magazine Achievement Medal in Bronze. 
The privilege of retaining and reproducing any of all prints submitted 
is reserved by The Garden Magazine. Any such to be paid for at 
$5.00 each. 
Subject: 
An arrangement of cut flowers, or foliage, or both, in a suitable re¬ 
ceptable, and expressing the principles of arrangement in Prof. White’s 
articles in The Garden Magazine for August and October, 1922. 
The Whole Arrangement and Receptacle Must Be Shown. 
Conditions: 
1. The trimmed print must not be less than 4x6 inches, and may 
be an enlargement from a smaller negative. 
2. Any paper or process suitable for half-tone reproduction may 
be used (preferably smooth, glossy). 
3. Name and address of entrant, with names and colors of flowers 
and description of receptacle to be on back of photograph 
(not separate). 
4. Prints to be packed flat. 
5. Emtries may be mailed up to midnight May 1st, 1923. 
6. A competitor may enter any number of different photographs. 
7. The winning prints to be published in The Garden Magazine. 
8. The photographs will be judged on the following points: a. 
Decorative and artistic skill, b. Harmony of subject and 
receptacle in material and form and line. c. Photographic 
technique. 
Address: 
Floral Photo Competition, The Garden Magazine, Garden City, 
N. Y. 
