The Garden Magazine, May, 1923 
177 
Roses will be opening leaves by the first week of the month; spray 
against mildew with £ oz. sulphide of potassium to a gallon of 
water. When the buds form, give manure-water. Use whale-oil 
soap i lb. to 8 gallons water for aphis. 1 Cultivate to keep down 
weeds and to retain soil moisture. Pansies set in the rose bed add 
not a little to the general appearance, but make cultivation more 
difficult. Rose blooms to be cut in the early morning before the 
sun strikes them; if put in a cool place in fresh water for a few hours 
before being placed in the house they will keep much better. 
Sweet-peas need well fertilized ground, plenty of moisture, and the 
roots kept cool by a mulch. 
Bedding out may be started in earnest some time after the middle of the 
month, according to locality. Begin with the more hardy things 
and be careful to thoroughly harden-off such tender subjects as 
Cannas, Coleus, etc. 
Prepare a bed for sowing perennials and biennials for next season’s 
garden. 
Prepare ground for summer flowering bulbs and tubers, of which the 
Gladiolus and Dahlias are the most popular; Tuberous Begonias 
are useful for shady beds; the Evening Star (Cooperia Drum- 
mondii) has pure white flowers; Lilies include auratum, speciosum, 
tigrinum, etc., the common Day-lilies (Funkia and Hemerocallis) 
may be added. 
Peonies will be benefited when the buds show, by surface dressing of 
sheep manure, nitrate of soda, or liquid manure. 
Early Asters to go outdoors as soon as possible in well prepared ground; 
rotted barnyard manure is best, but failing this, commercial potato 
fertilizer. 
Window boxes to be repaired, and new ones made and filled as soon as 
possible. A generous compost is essential, since a great number of 
plants are crowded into a limited space, and they must be well fed 
if they are to look their best right along. A layer of manure in 
the bottom of the box, with a compost of three parts good garden 
soil and one part manure mixed together, and a six-inch pot of 
bone meal to each bushel of soil will give the plants a good start. 
Lily-of-the-Valley may still be planted outdoors; rather moist position 
with some shade suits best. 
It is not too late to plant Aquatics. Nymphaeas may be grown suc¬ 
cessfully in tanks, vats, or barrel ends in pools or sunk in the ground. 
The Frames 
These will now be fully occupied with annuals and bedding plants de¬ 
manding water more freely, and ample ventilation with a view to 
dispensing altogether with the sash before setting the occupants 
outdoors. As space is cleared, lightly fork over the soil and pre¬ 
pare to sow perennials and biennials. 
Hills may be prepared and Cucumbers of the English frame type 
sown to occupy the frames for the rest of the summer. Melons 
may be used in this way too. 
The young Carnation plants hardening in the frames may be planted 
outside. Keep well cultivated, and growths pinched, since upon 
the treatment they receive now depends to a great extent their 
success next winter. 
The Greenhouses 
Next winter’s supply of flowers must be thought of now. As soon as 
possible empty the houses of all hard-wooded plants such as Aza¬ 
leas, Genistas, Acacias, Bougainvilleas, etc., plunging them out¬ 
doors to ripen their wood. 
Begonias, Gloxinias, and other flowering plants grown in the green¬ 
house, to be well fed; Cyclamen and Primulas may be placed in 
coldframes and slightly shaded. 
Plants of Winter-flowering Begonias need attention before they become 
pot-bound. Give a light compost made up of a good deal of flaky 
leaf-mold, good loam, screened cow manure, and sand, and a 
temperature of 6o to 62 degrees at night. 
The flowering season of Amaryllis being past, the plants may be placed 
in frames, and plunged up to the rims. Give weak liquid manure 
once a week at first and twice later on; syringe every fine day, and 
see that they are not in need of water. Any attention given 
now while making their growth will be repaid when the next 
flowering season comes. 
Gardenias should be planted early. Clean benches and a rich, porous 
soil and good drainage are necessary. Syringe well every day 
after planting, to ward off insect pests and mealy bugs. A night 
temperature of 70 degrees suits. 
Stocks for winter flowering to be sown now. Princess Alice, and 
Beauty of Nice are good types. Grow cool. 
Show Pelargoniums now coming into flower will justify all the care 
given them during the next few weeks. Fumigate to keep free 
from aphis, and keep the greenhouse cool and airy, with no direct 
rays of sun on the plants. 
Bulbs of Achimenes started in heat late in March will now have made 
some growth, and two or three of the bulbs may be placed to¬ 
gether in pans or baskets, and gradually inured to the greenhouse, 
where they will provide a blaze of color. Eight shading is nec¬ 
essary. 
Adiantums in large pots that were rested during the winter will now 
have a dense crop of young fronds. Any not repotted will be 
benefited by weak doses of liquid manure once a week. A little 
shade will keep the frond a dark uniform color. A. Croweanum 
and A. cuneatum require a night temperature of 60 degrees with 
70 to 75 degrees sun heat during the day. A. Farleyense requires 
from 65 to 70 degrees at night. 
Chrysanthemums for exhibition to be kept growing without a check. 
A good soil is turfy loam, with one third well rotted cow manure 
and a sprinkling of bone meal. Do not over water, and attend 
to tying, staking, pinching, and keeping the plants free from 
aphis. 
Bouvardias may be planted out in loamy soil, and pinched back three 
or four times during the summer to make husky plants for lifting 
in the fall. 
Snapdragons for winter flowering to be started. 
Melons for a midseason crop to be started now. They will produce a 
crop in about 14 weeks (September); any of the English forcing 
types may be used. 
The rose benches to be cleaned out and painted with hot whitewash 
before any replanting is done. If the plants are to be carried 
over another year, dry off gradually in order to rest them; but do 
not over do it, or they may take a permanent rest. 
Among the Orchids 
Calanthes may be started into growth in flats of sand. Pot the bulbs 
when the roots are quite short. Pot firmly and water sparingly 
until the roots get into the soil. Another useful terrestrial Orchid 
is Phaius grandiflora, which will soon be in flower. It needs a 
temperature of 60 degrees at night, a good water supply, and weak 
cow manure to strengthen the flower spikes. 
Odontoglossums are now in the height of their season. The plants 
need full sun some time longer to redden up their leaves, thus 
making them tough to withstand the heat of summer. All enjoy 
more water at the roots now. 
A temperature of 55 degrees at night is ample for them. A light 
spraying on bright days is beneficial. Protect the flower spikes 
from snails by wrapping cotton wool around the base of the spikes. 
FLOIVEH, ^ARRANGEMENT CONTEST CLOSES CMAY ist 
Midnight, May 1st, is the latest mailing time for photographs to be entered in the “Cut Flower Arrangement” competition 
which has been announced in these pages during recent months. The first pri%e, a silver vase suitably engraved, and the second 
priie, Garden Magazine Achievement Medal in bronze will be awarded on the decision of the judges who will meet for the con¬ 
sideration of the prints entered in contest as soon as possible and the announcement of the decision it is hoped will be made in 
the July number. Contestants are reminded that prints must not be less than 4x6 inches. Address: Floral Photo Competition, 
The Garden Magajne, Garden City, N. Y. 
