A TIMELY REMINDER FOR JUNE 
“And the soul of the Rose went into my blood”—Tennyson 
Copyright, 1923 , Doubleday, Page & Co. 
Herein are listed the seasonal activities for the complete 
garden. Details of how to do each item may be found in 
the current or back issues of The Garden Magazine 
—it is manifestly impossible to make each number of 
the magazine a complete manual of practice. Ref¬ 
erences to back numbers may be looked up in the 
index to each completed volume (sent gratis upon 
request). The Service Department will also be 
glad to cite references to any special topic if 
asked for by mail, and also to send personal 
replies to specific questions; a stamped, ad¬ 
dressed envelope being enclosed. 
When referring to the time for outdoor work of any 
sort New York City (latitude 40) at sea level in a 
normal season is taken as standard; but at best dates 
can only be approximate. Roughly, the season ad¬ 
vances northward fifteen miles a day. Thus Albany, 
which is one hundred and fifty miles from New 
York would be about ten days later, and Phila¬ 
delphia, which is ninety miles southwest, about 
a week earlier. Also allow jour days for each 
degree of latitude, for each five degrees of 
longitude, and for each four hundred feet 
of altitude. 
is the month of Roses and Peonies and Strawberries, of 
yWEF" Peas both ‘sweet’ and ‘eat’, of Radishes, Spinach, and other 
ta ble pleasures. What would a June bride do without the 
P r °d uct °f ^e garden?” Thus with customary serio- 
whimsicality speaks that good gardener, J. Horace McFar¬ 
land, in what Mrs. Francis King so aptly calls his “Canticle of the 
Months” (page 255 , January, 1923 , G. M.). And, of course, it is to 
be remembered that these and other offerings of June are the direct 
and merited reward of forethought and fore-effort on the part of the 
individual gardener. Plantings must be continued if good things are 
to be enjoyed through successive summer months, and one must “step 
lively” to keep ahead of insects and other troublesome visitors who 
like June crops and June weather quite as well as we do. 
Attention to the Roses 
Feed freely with liquid manure; if large exhibition blooms are wanted 
rub off all but the terminal bud. One sure way to get control of 
rose bugs is by hand picking into a can of kerosene. Spraying 
with arsenate of lead, 5 pounds to 50 gallons of water, repeatedly, 
is an old remedy not very effectual. Melrosine is a new prepara¬ 
tion recommended for its effectiveness. 
Gladiolus for late fall cutting to be planted at 2 -week intervals. 
Dahlias to be planted during the month; put out stakes before setting 
out tubers or plants. When growth has started, reduce shoots to 
one, allowing side branches to develop one foot above the ground. 
Propagating for the Hardy Border 
Many herbaceous and alpine plants may be propagated after flower¬ 
ing by cuttings or offsets. The Creeping Phlox, Cerastium, 
Sedurn, Aubretia, Arenaria, and Iberis, are among those that 
may be increased at this time. Use a frame containing sandy soil 
and which can be shaded from hot sun. Stock may also be in¬ 
creased by sowing seeds at this time. Such subjects as Delphin¬ 
iums, Lupins, Foxgloves, Canterbury-bells, Sweet Williams, 
Aquilegias, Oenotheras, Heucheras, and other perennials, will 
make plants of sufficient size to plant into permanent quarters in 
the fall if sown now. A seedbed in the open ground will meet the 
requirements of these plants at this time, but as the frames 
are emptied of other stock they may be utilized. Shade is es¬ 
sential until germination takes place. 
The Flowers in the Garden 
Sweet-pea flowers to be picked determinedly; if seed-pods form, plants 
will stop producing. Keep well watered, for if the vines begin to 
turn yellow that is the end. Bedding-out to be finished promptly, 
setting aside a few surplus plants for replacements. 
Iris needs lots of water after blooming. Use bonemeal as fertilizer; top 
dressing with manure is bad for Iris. The best time to divide, 
transplant, or make new plantings of Iris is immediately after 
the blooming period. 
Stake plants as they need it and before they blow over. 
Cut to the ground Achillea as soon as through flowering to provide for 
a second crop later in the season. 
Coreopsis kept cut close will make a display all through the season. 
Keep picked off all dead leaves and flowers as they fade. 
Flower Seeds to Be Sown 
Sow now seed from such early flowering plants as Columbines, Lark¬ 
spurs, etc., to produce good plants before the fall. 
Late-flowering Tulips may be lifted as they pass out of bloom and 
heeled in elsewhere to ripen, the vacancies being filled w ; th annuals. 
Those known as “croppers” are best for this purpose. 
Still time to get a supply of seeds of annuals and enjoy a perfect sea 
of bloom ere the fall frosts arrive. To be sown now: Snapdragons, 
Asters, annual Gaillardia, Clarkia, Larkspur, Lupin, Poppy, 
Alyssum, Arctotis, Balsam, Calendula, Calliopsis, Candytuft, 
Cornflower, Centaurea, Cleome, Globe-amaranth, annual Gypso- 
phila, annual Sunflower, Marigold, Mignonette, Stock, Verbena, 
Zinnia, etc. 
Succession Plantings 
Succession plantings to be made of all vegetables required for table sup¬ 
ply throughout the summer; and provide for fall crops by replanting 
extra-early varieties now on the decline—such as Beets, Radishes, 
Lettuce, Spinach, etc. Have mid-summer Lettuce (see Garden 
Magazine for April, 1922, pages 116-118) or Endive follow early 
Beets; Bush Beans after Radishes; Beets or Celery to follow Lettuce; 
Lettuce or Beans to follow Onions. Extra-early varieties of the 
follow-up crops will oftentimes leave the ground available for 
still another crop in August. 
Plant early varieties of Sweet Corn every week or ten days up to July 
4 th which should be the final planting in latitude 40 °; midseason 
Lettuces, such as All-season, Iceberg, and Butterhead to be sown 
all through this month. Fine summer Radishes are Long White 
Vienna, Chartiers, and White Delicious. 
Winter Celery to be sown at once. Any sown last month may be 
pricked off into a spent hotbed as soon as large enough to 
handle. 
Crops grown for their leaves (Chard, Spinach, Endive, etc.) will be 
benefited by nitrogenous manures. Give top dressing of nitrate 
of soda either immediately following a rain or on ground thor¬ 
oughly saturated the night previous. Liquid manure is best, 
however; to make: half fill a bag with manure and suspend in a 
barrel of water. 
Cease cutting Asparagus as soon as other vegetables are plentiful. 
Transplant to permanent quarters: late Cauliflower, Cabbage, Kale, 
Broccoli, and Brussels-sprouts. 
About the Grounds 
Get after the elm-leaf beetle early, as spraying is useless after the 
larvae begin to come down. Use arsenate of lead applied with a 
good pressure pump. 
Keep clipped all kinds of trained plants and hedges. 
Recently transplanted large trees, shrubbery, and other ornamentals 
to be well watered throughout the summer. 
Evergreens will be benefited by overhead spraying twice a day. 
Young shoots of climbing Roses and other climbers to be kept tied up. 
Seed-pods to be removed from Rhododendrons, Kalmias, Andromedas, 
etc., to reserve vigor for next year’s bloom. 
Prune early flowering shrubs as they pass out of bloom, removing the 
oldest wood that it may be replaced with young, vigorous shoots 
for next season’s flowers. 
Propagate now by cuttings of half-ripened wood shrubs and trees, to 
be rooted under glass; also layer as soon as shoots are long enough 
to permit it. 
Pinch out side shoots of Evergreens to induce bushiness. 
Grass edges to be neatly clipped; walks and drives to be raked and 
rolled frequently. 
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