M TIMELY REMINDER FOR JULY 
“The weeds, a little discouraged, yield more easily to the hoe” 
Herein are listed the seasonal activities for the complete 
garden. Details of how to do each item may be found in 
the current or back issues of The Garden Magazine 
—it is manifestly impossible to make each number of 
the magazine a complete manual of practice. Ref¬ 
erences to back numbers may be looked up in the 
index to each completed volume (sent gratis upon 
request). The Service Department will also be 
glad to cite references to any special topic if 
asked for by mail, and also to send personal 
replies to specific questions; a stamped, ad¬ 
dressed envelope being enclosed. 
Copyright, 1923, Doubleday, Page & Co. 
When referring to the time for outdoor work of any 
sort New York City (latitude 40) at sea level in a 
normal season is taken as standard; but at best dates 
can only be approximate. Roughly, the season ad¬ 
vances northward fifteen miles a day. Thus Albany, 
which is one hundred and fifty miles from New 
York would be about ten days later, and Phila¬ 
delphia, which is ninety miles southwest, about 
a week earlier. Also allow four days for each 
degree of latitude, for each five degrees of 
longitude, and for each four hundred feet 
of altitude. 
N JULY “the weeds, a little discouraged, yield more easily 
to the hoe,” so says the cheery Philosopher of Breeze Hill, and 
surely no one knows better than he whose philosophy is always 
based upon sound experience. Well, when the weeds give up 
is the gardner’s golden opportunity to accomplish much with 
little effort and it is rather nice of Mother Nature thus to tip the 
scales on man’s behalf just when the hot weather is coming along. 
However, because there’s a chance to ease up, don’t let over-indolence 
spoil the several profitable garden months ahead. 
Growing Crops as They Stand 
If a poor return is inevitable from any crop now occupying space, pull 
or hoe it out and replant. Don’t waste time and space, but start 
a supply of winter vegetables. It is not too late to sow others for 
fall use. Don’t be misled into supposing that late varieties 
are indispensable because they are for late use. Early varieties 
are an advantage in many localities as they mature before frost. 
Late Cabbage, Cauliflower, Kale, Brussels Sprouts and Celery to be set 
into permanent quarters this month. The earlier the better. 
Tomatoes on stakes to be tied, and side shoots pinched out frequently. 
The foliage to be thinned if it is shading the fruit. 
Melon and Squash vines to be kept off the ground by laying brush for 
them to climb over. Small boards or pots placed under Melons 
will cause them to ripen more evenly than they do when left on 
the ground and will prevent the flat, bleached-out side often seen. 
Potatoes to be sprayed twice this month or oftener if the weather be 
wet. Plant Turnips where early Potatoes have been dug. 
Rhubarb, Sea-kale, and Asparagus to be well fed by top-dressing of well 
rotted manure, or fertilizer, preferably both if available. Culti¬ 
vate thoroughly and keep clear of all weeds. Next year’s yield is 
proportionate to the feeding taken in now. 
Spray regularly with bordeaux: Muskmelons, Cucumbers, Pumpkins, 
and Squashes. 
Onions and Leeks to be fed with liquid manure or nitrate of soda. 
Vegetable Seeds for Succession 
Beans to be planted for succession. Get the average date for the first 
killing frost in your locality and figure the last sowing according to 
that. Red Valentine will mature in 55 days, if the frost does not 
kill it before the last week in September. Sowings made up to 
last week in July will yield the bulk of the crop before being nipped. 
Last chance to sow long season Beets, such as Long Smooth Blood for 
winter use, is the first week of this month. After that (up to the 
20th of the month) early maturing varieties such as Detroit Dark 
Red, Crosby Egyptian, Crimson Globe. 
Carrots for the winter crop to be sown by the 15th of the month. 
Last call for Corn planting July 4th, using such early varieties as Peep 
o’Day, Mayflower, Golden Bantam. 
Early White Endive sown the first week of the month will be ready to 
blanch in early September. 
Kohlrabi to be sown for succession; it matures in sixty days. 
Heat resisting sorts of Lettuce, as All Seasons, Butterhead, and Iceberg, 
to be sown up to the middle of the month. During the last of the 
month use Tender Heart, Black-Seeded Tennis Ball, and Big 
Boston types. 
Radishes for succession to be sown. Sow White Strasburg, and Black 
Spanish for winter use up to the 15th. 
Peas for a fall crop will not give a spring crop return, so use heavy 
bearing, quick maturing sorts; i. e. Sutton’s Excelsior, Little Mar¬ 
vel, Alaska, and Thomas Laxton. 
Rutabagas for winter use to be sown as early as possible, and succes¬ 
sion crops of Turnips up to 20th. Purple Top, Strap Leaf, Am¬ 
ber Leaf, and White Globe to be sown for late fall use. 
Late Cucumbers for pickling are possibilities if sown at once and given 
good care. Liquid manure will help. 
Where the Fruit Is Promising 
Summer pruning is the month’s big job which really assists the trees in 
setting up fruit buds. Go over all trees of fruiting size, and nip 
off all thin, weak interior growth, also take off the ends of any 
heavy shoots with a tendency to get ahead of others. 
Cane fruits (i. e. Raspberries and the like) to be pruned thoroughly after 
fruiting; cut away old wood that has borne fruit; leaving new 
growths to fill the rows without crowding. 
Currants and Gooseberries neglected during the fall or spring pruning, 
to have some of the old wood cut out now to give room for new 
growth. 
Rub off surplus growths that may have started on Grape vines where 
not wanted. 
When the Strawberry crop is gathered, remove weeds, litter, and super- 
flous runners and lightly fork over the surface of the soil. Re¬ 
plant part of the patch each year to maintain succession. 
Thin crop of heavy-bearing fruits, especially Apples and Pears. Re¬ 
duce clusters to a single fruit, and in the case of Apple let fruit 
hang 10-12 inches apart all over the tree. 
Cover crops in the orchard to be plowed under. A cutaway disk 
harrow, or a chain on the plow is worth considering in this 
connection. 
Where the Flowers Are Growing 
Do not stir the soil deeply when cultivating; many plants are shallow 
rooted. Cut off flower heads when bloom fades, unless saving seed. 
Note the names and quantities of any plants needed to fill gaps and 
order potted plants to fill now or in fall. 
The biennial Campanulas, Foxglove, and other plants of this nature to 
be torn out and thrown away after flowering. Foxglove seedlings 
will spring up and may be kept for next year’s flowering. 
Annuals to give late summer bloom by sowing now include Mignon¬ 
ette, Candytuft, Phlox Drummondi, Coreopsis, Gypsophila, and 
Cornflower. 
Continuously flowering plants (Coreopsis, Gypsophila, and Perennial 
Peas) to have the flowers picked clean in order to have them flower 
right along. Mulching is preferable to watering (especially on the 
“little and often” plan) for these and fall-flowering perennials. 
When watering, give water until the soil is saturated through and 
through, and then give still more. Mulch to go on after that. 
If Phloxes show signs of red spider or mildew, use a strong force of 
water from the hose for red spider, and sulphide of potassium 
(1 oz. to a gallon of water) for mildew. 
Move Tall Bearded (German) and Japanese Iris, even Peonies etc., 
after flowering and make any desired changes of arrangement. 
Nasturtiums, and other soft succulent plants soon suffer from the 
attacks of aphis and are to be sprayed frequently with tobacco or 
suitable preparations. 
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