The Garden Magazine, July, 1923 
305 
Geraniums to be pinched back to get bushy plants. Remove terminal 
growths with fore-finger and thumb. 
Clip Althernanthera and Coleus to keep them within bounds. On 
large areas a scythe is a useful implement for this purpose. 
Rambler Roses to have the old wood cut away soon after flowering. 
Tie the new canes and give them plenty of' room, selecting only 
the most desirable of the new growths, cutting out weak and 
crowded shoots. Ramblers trained against buildings are generally 
infested with both fungus and insect. Spray in time to control. 
Keep up vitality by regular watering. 
Bush Roses to have growths shortened when through blooming, to 
encourage vigorous new wood for fall flowering. A dressing of 
tankage, blood, manure, and liquid cow manure will help consider¬ 
ably. If drouth prevails, soak the beds with plenty of water. 
Perennial seeds to be sown at once for flowering next season. 
Irrigation the Most Urgent Need 
One good soaking, once a week is more beneficial than a slight sprin¬ 
kling every evening. Also, be sure to put the water where it 
belongs. 
“Leafy” vegetables as well as root crops appreciate having their tops 
as well as their roots watered. On the other hand, plants that 
bear fruits (such as Peppers, Eggplants, Tomatoes, Cucumbers, 
and other vining plants) should not have the tops and blossoms 
soaked and the pollen washed away. 
Modern methods and appliances have done a great deal to make 
watering comparatively easy. Systems of pipe lines overhead or 
underground, portable sprinklers, rotary and oscillating water- 
fans are now perfected to such a degree as to do their work thor¬ 
oughly and efficiently. Press these aids into service to get the 
most out of your July garden 
About the Grounds 
For aphis on any of the trees use Black Leaf 40, or Thrip Juice. 
Finish pruning early flowering shrubs, cutting out old wood that has 
produced. 
Caterpillars to be disposed of as soon as seen or they will quickly de¬ 
foliate any plants they attack. Borers are active. A steel wire 
run along the opening a borer is working in will dispose of him. 
Attend to any tree having bark disease or bad scars. Where decay 
has started, cut out the soft, punky wood to real hard, solid wood, 
making the shape of the cavity such as will allow water to run out. 
If the cavity is small and does not materially affect the stability of 
the tree a treatment with pine tar or creosote will be all that is 
needed. This work calls for real skill and any extensive operation 
had best be given the specialists. 
New plantations to be protected from drouth by heavy mulching; it 
saves constant watering. 
Green fly or white scale to be looked for on the Bay-trees. 
Plants in the Greenhouse 
Present neglect of winter-flowering plants in frames will be tenfold 
more evident during the winter months. 
Plant Carnations in the benches. 
Snapdragons for winter flowering to be planted in benches where they 
are to bloom. Keep them cool and maintain a moist atmosphere. 
Freesias to be potted up or boxed; they will flower by Christmas. 
Water sparingly until growth starts. 
Liliums giganteum, speciosum, and auratum from cold storage to be 
potted up. The first will flower in October. After potting, 
place bulbs in a coldframe where they can be shaded until rooted. 
Bench-grown Chrysanthemums to be kept well watered; also specimen 
plants in pots, and the large-flowered exhibition types. Bush 
plants may still be pinched. Syringe and spray frequently to 
keep them free from thrips, aphis, and red spider. Maintain a 
cool buoyant atmosphere. 
Violets in small pots, planted on a bench with a northern aspect in a 
cool house, will make fine flowering plants by winter. 
Crotons not to be shaded heavily for brilliant coloring. Frequent 
syringings keep mealy bugs, scale, and red spider in check. 
Hydrangeas for forcing next winter, now planted outdoors, not to be 
pinched after the first of the month. 
Place order now for Roman Hyacinths, and for Paper White, Trumpet, 
and Golden Spur Narcissus. 
Left over plants of Marguerites apparently of little use will, if planted 
outdoors, make fine growth by September, when they may be 
lifted and potted for early winter flower. Shade in the pots. 
Calla Lilies to be started into growth; purchase new plants now. 
Fibrous loam, cow manure, and bonemeal make a good compost. 
Gardenias planted early last month need air on all favorable occasions, 
but avoid draughts. Dampen the walks frequently and maintain 
warm, moist atmosphere. 
Geraniums for winter flowering now being grown in pots to have leading 
growths pinched whenever they show a tendency to run away. 
Pick off flower spikes. Give a sunny, well ventilated house; 
freedom from weeds and dead leaves; and an occasional spraying 
overhead. Avoid the use of liquid manures which promote soft 
growth at the expense of the flowers; use fine bonemeal. 
Asparagus Sprengeri for winter greens to be purchased in small pots 
and planted now, if stock is not on hand from seeds sown in heat 
in the spring. 
Seeds for Indoor Sowings 
Mignonette for winter flowering to be sown early. A rich compost is 
essential. Cover seed lightly and keep moist until germination 
takes place. 
Sweet-peas and Calendulas (to follow Chrysanthemums in November) 
to be sown toward the end of the month. 
Chinese Primroses to be sown now for Christmas flowering; and 
Cineraria stellata for cut flowers in early spring. Baby Primroses 
to be sown; large plants to be divided and potted into 2\ inch 
pots. All cool-house subjects (like Cinerarias, Calceolarias, and 
Baby Primroses) need the coolest possible conditions at this time. 
Seed of English Wallflowers sown now outdoors—later transplanted 
6 inches apart and, in October, lifted and potted, wintered in a 
coldframe with a little protection and brought into the greenhouse 
in January—will make fine flowering plants in the spring. 
New Zealand Spinach for winter use to be sown in a coolhouse. Pars¬ 
ley also to be sown for next winter’s use. 
Watercress is easy to grow in a coldframe or cool greenhouse (not 
more than 45 0 ); if the temperature gets high aphis is troublesome. 
Sow now, using a rich soil, and cover the bed with an inch of clean, 
sharp sand. 
Tomatoes for fall crop to be sown now and planted into permanent 
quarters September 1st. Fall crop of Cucumbers to be had by 
sowing English forcing types now; plant to permanent quarters 
late in August. 
Cuttings Under Glass 
Lorraine Begonias (and other of the winter flowering types) grown 
from early rooted leaf-cuttings to have flowers picked off. If in 
need of larger pots move them; but if in doubt leave for some time 
longer. Overpotting of these plants often spells failure, especially 
when watering is done carelessly. Shade to avoid burning. 
Poinsettias may yet be rooted. Purchase small stock of winter 
flowering Begonias to grow on. 
Cuttings of Double Sweet Alvssum put into propagating bench now, 
and later planted at intervals alongside of the Carnation benches, 
will flower all winter. 
Forcing Fruits 
Toward the end of the month start ripening up the pot vines for early 
forcing next winter. Place in full sun, water thoroughly, and 
syringe twice daily. 
Fruit houses that have ripened crops and are staying wide open right 
along dry out rapidly. Continual syringing of trees or vines will 
often keep the surface looking half dry. Water thoroughly. 
Apples and Pears that have fruited in pots to be fed and watered for 
another season. Sublaterals may be pinched back to two eyes. 
Care of Orchids 
Calanthes to be looked over twice a day to prevent drying out; these 
terrestrial Orchids do not like as much spraying as other kinds. 
Have the foliage dry overnight or spot will develop. Look out 
for cool nights during the ensuing weeks, 70° at night is required. 
Cypripediums now in active growth; as the roots fill the pots and pans 
liquid manure once a week will help. See that the plants do not 
suffer for want of water. Ventilate freely, but avoid draughts. 
Shade to prevent actual burning. 
