314 
The Garden Magazine, July, 1923 
Japanese as “Koraito.” Originally they had a religious sig¬ 
nificance, as the most highly favored forms were copied after 
those in the grounds of temples and burial topes. 
Stone lanterns, if we may believe the legend, were first con¬ 
structed about 600 A. D. by Prince Iru Hiko as a protection 
against robbers. They 
were afterward intro¬ 
duced into gardens both 
for their usefulness, and 
for purely ornamental 
purposes. They ran all 
the way from five to 
twenty feet in height, 
and might have legs or a 
standard which was car¬ 
ried solid to the ground, 
C LOSELY analyzed 
principles of gar¬ 
dening were applied not 
only to the grounds of 
large estates, but even to 
the court at the rear of 
the ordinary inns, or mid¬ 
dle class houses. In fact 
the Japanese went fur¬ 
ther, and constructed 
miniature gardens in 
plots no larger than a ta¬ 
ble top, but these lie out¬ 
side our subject. 
A good idea of the gar¬ 
den in the court of an 
inn, as seen with European eyes, is given by Englebert Kaempfer, 
who was among the Dutch traders in Japan at the end of the 
17th century. His description runs in part as follows: 
J The garden to be a good one must be at least thirty feet square, and 
contain the following essential parts: 
1. I he ground is partly cover’d with roundish stones, of different 
colours, gather’d in rivers or upon the sea-shore, well-wash’d and 
clean’d, and those of the same kind laid together in form of beds, partly 
with gravel, which is swept every day, and kept clean and neat to admi¬ 
ration, the large stones being laid in the middle, as a path to walk upon, 
without injuring the gravel, the whole in a seeming but ingenious con¬ 
fusion. 
2. Some few flower-bearing plants planted confusedly, tho’ not 
without some certain rules. 
Amidst the plants stands 
sometimes a Saguer, as they 
call it, or scarce outlandish 
tree, sometimes a dwarf 
tree or two. 
3. A small rock or hill 
in a corner of the garden, 
made in imitation of na¬ 
ture, curiously adorn’d 
with birds and insects, cast 
in brass, and placed be¬ 
tween the stones, some¬ 
times the model of a temple 
stands upon it, built, as 
for the sake of the pros¬ 
pect they generally are, 
on a remarkable eminence, 
or the borders of a preci¬ 
pice. Often a small rivulet 
rushes down the stones 
with an agreeable noise, 
the whole in due propor¬ 
tions and as nearly as possi¬ 
ble resembling nature. 
4. A small brush, or wood, 
on the side of the hill, for 
which the gardeners choose 
such trees as will grow 
close to one another, and 
plant and cut them accord¬ 
ing to their largeness, nature, and the colour of their flowers and leaves, so 
as to make the whole very accurately imitate a natural wood, or forest. 
5. A cistern or pond, as mention’d above, with alive fish kept 
in it, and surrounded with proper plants, that is such as love a 
watery soil, and would lose their beauty and greenness if planted in a 
dry ground. 
It is a particular profession to layout these gardens . . . Nor 
doth it require less skill and ingenuity to contrive and fit out the rocks 
and hills above mention’d according to the rules of art. 
BESPEAKING SERENITY 
A lake garden at Honjo, 19th century, with artificial hills so skilfully 
created that the spectator wholly forgets man’s part in their making 
THE SECRET OF GROWING LATE PEAS 
A. RUTLEDGE 
S P|JHE best peas in America are said to be grown on the 
high plateaus of the far West, where throughout the 
;ij|| season a uniformly cool temperature prevails. Peas 
ought to have cool and showery weather; and every 
gardener knows from experience how Peas “give up” just as 
soon as a real July sun begins to beat upon them. Most 
growers never attempt late Peas because they believe that they 
cannot be successfully started in midsummer. However, even 
in ordinary latitudes and in the average garden, delicious Peas 
can be had at the same time when one is getting the finest 
Celery and the last of the Tomatoes. Two methods will be 
briefly described for the successful late-growing of Peas. 
The first is the method of planting between the rows of late 
Corn. Most gardeners start late Corn between rows of early 
Potatoes, or just after Peas or Head Lettuce have been taken out 
after the spring crop. Corn so planted (for middle latitudes 
before the 15th of July) will have made a good start by the mid¬ 
dle of August. At that time go through it, digging small deep 
holes along the rows between the hills of Corn. Drop half a 
dozen peas in each hole and pull in the earth loosely. A depth 
of three inches is not too great. Peas need to have their roots 
deep-plunging if they are to come to maturity at the end of the 
summer. It has been my experience that the Peas so started 
will be grateful for the semi-shade afforded by the Corn; will 
find congenial support on the Corn-stalks, and will bloom and 
bear very well. At the close of the summer, Peas mature more 
quickly than they do in the spring; and by the method described 
they have every condition that makes for the best growth: 
coolness, dampness, and proper support. 
A second method is merely to dig a narrow trench about a 
foot to a foot-and-a-half deep. In the bottom of this pack old 
manure or heavy compost. Cover with a little soil (two inches); 
then sow peas, and finally cover the peas four or five inches deep. 
This is the same principle that is followed in growing prize 
Sweet-peas, except that with the flower-seeds, the planting is 
generally deeper. Peas so started will do best if given a little 
support on brush or wire. Support not only keeps the vines 
and pods off the ground but causes the vines to cast a uniform 
shade over the roots, whereas when Peas lie down their roots 
and the vines next the ground are fully exposed to the sun. 
In late September and in October it is very pleasant to have 
green peas from the garden; and as this legume is not injured by 
ordinary light frosts, the season of bearing can be prolonged far 
into the autumn. 
