3V  RURAL  NEW. YORKER 
125 
The  Home  Dressmaker 
Styles  and  AVomen. — Present  styles 
seem  to  follow  Prof.  Coue — day  by  day 
they  are  growing  better.  A  woman  may 
wear  silly  or  immodest  clothes  if  she  de¬ 
sires,  but  fashion  does  not  compel  her  to 
do  so.  Skirts  remain  a-moderate  length  ; 
they'=do~  nor  trail,  neither  do  they  shrink 
up  to  the  knees.  Some  women's  clubs 
have  issued  protests  against  long  skirts, 
but  as  there  is  no  amendment  to  the  con¬ 
stitution  compelling  all  women  to  wear 
them,  such  protest’s  sound  rather  futile. 
One  sees  plenty  of  short  skirts  still,  but 
of  course  they  are  not  in  the  newest 
mode.  For  sports  wear  any  convenient 
length  may  be  chosen,  or  knickerbockers 
may  be  substituted  for  skirts  without  any¬ 
one  feeling  a  shock. 
White  Serge.' — In  the  first  picture,  the 
figure  at  the  left  shows  a  striking  dress 
of  white  serge,  trimmed  with  rose-col¬ 
ored  cloth.  It  is  an  extremely  simple 
model,  a  straight  one-piece  with  bateau 
neck  and  elbow  sleeves.  At  the  waist  was 
a  broad  band  of  rose-colored  cloth,  em¬ 
broidered  in  white  wool  in  darning  stitch. 
A  narrow  band  of  rose  color,  barred  with 
white  wool,  bordered  neck,  sleeves  and 
edged  the  closing  of  the  dress  from  neck  to 
hem.  A  narrow  white  belt  over  the  em¬ 
broidered  band  defined  the  waist  line.  The 
small  hat  figured  was  a  sports  model  of 
rose-colored  cloth,  with  an  inverted  quill 
at  the  back.  This  dress  would  be  very  at¬ 
tractive  in  the  soft  shades  of  gray  that 
are  in  favor,  with  the  rose-colored  trim¬ 
ming,  or  any  other  becoming  combination. 
It  would  be  a  good  model  for  heavy  linen. 
Okay  Canton  Crepe. — At  the  right  is 
a  dress  of  gray  canton  crepe  trimmed  with 
hemstitching.  There  are  lines  of  hem¬ 
stitching  in  the  front  of  the  skirt  and 
waist,  the  further  trimming  consisting  of 
rectangular  t tickings  of  white  crepe  set 
in  with  hemstitching  in  both  sleeves  and 
waist,  the  oval  neck  having  a  small  bol¬ 
ster  collar  of  the  white  tucking.  At  the 
right  side  was  a  flying  panel  coming  a  lit¬ 
tle  below  the  skirt.  This  was  hemstitched 
at  the  bottom,  and  gathered  and  turned 
over  at  the  top.  A  narrow  white  girdle 
went  under  this  turned-over  frill  at  the 
top  of  the  panel,  passing  around  the  waist 
and  tying  at  the  left  side.  The  use  of 
one  panel  only,  falling  below  the  hem,  is 
a  new  idea,  taking  the  place  of  the  two 
panels  that  have  been  worn  during  the 
past  few  months.  The  hat  pictured  is 
gray  taffeta,  faced  with  pale  pink  under 
the* brim,  and  trimmed  with  a  large  bow 
on  one  side,  near  the  back. 
Strawberry  Embroidery. — In  the  sec¬ 
ond  picture,  the  little  dress  at  the  left 
was  white  voile,  a  plain  kimono  pattern, 
wiih  a  little  frill  finishing  sleeves  and 
neck.  The  only  novelty  about  it  was  the 
embroidered  trimming.  This  consisted  of 
a  scattering  of  strawberries  over  the 
waist — glowing  red  fruit  done  in  French 
knots,  with  calyx  and  stem  done  in  green 
Kensington  stitch.  Such  embroidery  goes 
quickly,  and  it  would  not  be  difficult  to 
draw  an  outline  of  the*fruit  in  lead  pencil 
and  fill  in  with  the  knots.  While  very 
simple,  this  was  an  exceptionally  pretty 
frock. 
Printed  Silk. — In  the  center  is  one 
of  be  new  dresses  in  printed  silk  that  will 
undoubtedly  be  very  popular  this  season. 
The  dress  shows  the  straight  silhouette 
and  simple  style,  for  these  gaily  figured 
materials  must  be  plainly  made,  with  lit¬ 
tle  trimming.  In  this  case  the  silk  had  a 
dull  willow  green  ground  with  a  pattern 
in  black  and  rose.  The  sleeves  were  fin¬ 
ished  with  a  trimming  of  willow  green 
satin,  a  triangle  like  a  half  handkerchief 
tied  in  a  kno.  with  loose  ends.  A  girdle 
of  the  green  satin  began  at  the  right  side, 
where  it  was  shirred  over  cords  for  about 
six  inches,  then  passed  around  the  back 
to  the  left  side,  where  if  was  tied  in  a 
knot  with  two  ends.  The  girdle  did  not 
extend  across  the  front,  where  the  dress 
was  shirred  scantily  over  two  cords  It 
will  be  noted  that  the  dress  was  long- 
waisted,  bloused,  and  gave  a  straight  sil¬ 
houette.  Many  of  these  printed  foulards 
are  in  formal  Egyptian  designs ;  we  noted 
some,  described  as  Elvira  foulards,  made 
into  s:n’,ple  dresses  for  little  girls. 
Checked  Tucking. — The  little  dress 
at  the  right  was  blue  organdy,  pin-tucked 
in  checks  all  over,  but  it  seemed  a  good 
idea  for  fine  gingham.  There  were  no 
sleeves,  but  a  band  of  white  organdy  with 
picot  edging  finished  the  armholes,  and 
there  was  a  round  collar  of  white,  also 
finished  with  picot  edge.  The  original 
dress  was  quite  expensive,  being  offered 
in  a  fashionable  shop,  but  developed  in 
gingham,  with  bloomers  to«  match,  it 
would  be  pretty  and  useful,  and  would 
mean  hot-weather  comfort  for  a  small 
girl. 
Mid-season  Millinery.  —  The  new 
hats  now  appearing  may  be  divided  into 
two  classes — those  intended  for  present 
wear  in  the  North,  and  the  Summer  or 
Spring  styles  to  be  worn  at  the  Southern 
resorts.  The  hats  for  Northern  wear 
show  lustrous  fabrics,  such  as  shiny  hair¬ 
cloth,  satin  or  faille.  Small  close-fitting 
shapes  in  haircloth  are  trimmed  with 
burnt  peacock  feathers,  or  other  fancy 
feathers ;  there  are  also  large  shapes  in 
haircloth.  The  silk  hats  are  sometimes 
combined  with  straw,  or  they  have  vivid 
trimmings — fruit,  flowers,  ribbons  or  or¬ 
naments.  A  novel  sports  hat  of  old  blue 
taffeta  had  a  quilted  brim  finished  at  the 
edge  with  gray  yarn.  One  rather  odd 
small  hat  was  of  woven  raffia,  trimmed 
with  raffia  fruit.  Hats  of  the  silk  called 
gros  de  Londres  are  seen  in  various  fash¬ 
ionable  shops,  mushrooms,  pokes,  turbans 
and  rolled  brims.  Glycerined  ostrich  is 
still  popular  among  the  trimmings,  and 
also  many  fancy  coque  feathers.  Gray 
is  very  popular  in  millinery  ;  we  see  many 
hats  all  pale  gray,  especially  with  dark 
fur  coats.  Gray  is  to  be  one  of  the  spe¬ 
cially  favored  Spring  colors. 
Notes  and  Novelties. — Among  the 
new  Spring  frocks  of  printed  silk  we  saw 
<>ue  model  described  as  the  “Chinese  laun¬ 
dry  ticket”  frock.  It  was  silk  printed  in 
Chinese  characters,  bright  colors  on  a 
dark  ground.  It  was  a  simple  short- 
sleeved  gown  with  a  bateau  neck  bound 
with  a  solid  color,  with  bow  and  ends  in 
front. 
Coat  frocks  this  Spring  are  of  redingote 
style,  very  flat  across  the  back,  and 
nipped  in  just  a  trifle  at  the  sides.  One 
French  model  in  navy  blue  and  black 
twill  had  a  little  stitching  in  gold  tinsel 
on  cuffs,  collar  and  little  pockets. 
New  topcoats  are  of  English  woolens 
with  a  soft  velvety  surface,  in  shades  of 
beige,  brown,  green,  blue  and  gray,  often 
with  nutria  or  fox  collars. 
Some  attractive  blouses  in  French 
printed  silk  were  Indo-Chinese  patterns — 
Chinese  characters,  pagodas,  dragons  and 
Voile  Printed  Silk  and  Organdie 
flowers.  These  were  straight  long-waist- 
ed  blouses  with  long  sleeves,  the  girdle 
tied  at  one  side. 
Some  very  attractive  simple  gowns 
are  of  crepe  de  chine  or  wool  crepe  em¬ 
broidered  in  Ukrainian  cross-stitch.  A 
design  extends  over  the  front  of  the  waist, 
and  there  is  a  little  embroidery  on  the 
sleeve,  as  well  as  the  cuff,  and  edging 
the  neck.  The  embroidery  is  usually  in 
rather  soft  colors,  such  as  pale  green,  buff 
and  dull  blue. 
Some  handsome  gowns  of  flat  crepe  had 
four  flying  {panels  on  the  skirt,  and 
winged  sleeves  finished  with  silk  tassels. 
Among  the  readymade  Summer  or 
house  dresses  for  women  we  noticed  at¬ 
tractive  models  in  white  pique  trimmed 
with  beading.  The  beading  formed  a 
panel  in  the  front  of  both  skirt  and  waist, 
and  trimmed  the  sleeves.  The  dresses 
were  a  plain  one-piece  model,  opening 
down  the  side  of  a  pointed  vest,  and  being 
of  a  slip-on  style  there  was  no  placket. 
Printed  silks  are  seen  in  new  costumes 
for  Southern  wear,  often  gay  patterns  in 
two  or  three  colors.  Such  dresses  arc 
simply  made,  as  any  elaboration  would 
lessen  the  effect  of  the  silk.  The  patterns, 
Russian,  Persian,  Indo-Chinese  or  Egyp¬ 
tian,  are  printed  in  shades  of  red,  blue, 
beige,  gray  and  green,  and  also  in  black 
and  white.  These  gay  silks  are  also  used 
for  over-blouses  with  accordion-pleated 
crepe  de  chine  skirts  in  solid  colors. 
In  Spring  suits  a  straight,  single-but¬ 
ton  coat  with  a  small  shawl  collar  is  a 
favored  model.  Camel’s-hair  homespun 
and  tweed  in  soft  colors  are  popular  ma¬ 
terials. 
Many  new  dresses  show  a  large  sash 
bow  on  one  hip;  this  is  especially  new. 
Empress  Eugenie  fichu  collars  are  newer 
than  the  round  berthas. 
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DAVID  WHITE.  Dept.  114,  419  E.  Water  St.  Milwaukee.  Wis. 
100 
Rural  New  York 
.By 
ELMER  O.F1PPIN 
Edited  by 
L.  H.  BAILEY 
*  t  'HIS  book  is 
a  study  of 
the  Soils,  Agri¬ 
culture,  Animal 
Husbandry  and 
other  resources 
of  New  York 
State  and  its 
manufactures  as 
they  pertain  to 
agriculture;  380  pages,  many  illus¬ 
trations  and  charts.  A  valuable  book 
for  reference.  Price,  $2.50. 
FOR  SALF.  BY 
Rural  New-Yorker^ 
333  WEST  30th  STREET,  N.Y. 
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