7*t  RURAL  NEW. YORKER 
251 
Budding  Cherry  Trees 
I  have  an  old  cherry  tree  which  will 
not  last  long,  and  as  the  fruit  is  the  best 
that  I  have  seen,  I  would  like  .to  bud  it 
on  <ome  young  stoqk.  I  have  tried  graft¬ 
ing  without  success,  and  have  been  told 
you  could  not  graft  stone  fruits,  but 
should  bud  them.  What  is  the  best  time 
to  bud  a  cherry  tree?  Is  it  possible  to 
bud  onto  a  wild  cherry  tree,  rum  cherry? 
Canton.  Mass.  E.  e.  g. 
It  is  perfectly  possible  to  graft  the  stone 
fruits,  but  budding  is  the  easier  aud  more 
successful  method,  therefore  the  one  usu¬ 
ally  employed.  The  rum  or  wild  black 
clfcerry,  Prunus  serotina,  has  been  used 
as  a  stock  for  cherries,  but  since  this  long- 
lunch  cherry  is  so  distantly  related  to  the 
short-buncli  or  orchard  cherries,  it  is 
doubtful  whether  it  would  make  the  most 
congenial  stock.  Another  wild  cherry,  the 
bird,  pin,  or  pigeon  cherry,  Prunus  Penn- 
sylvanim,  is  frequently  used  as  a  stock 
in  the  colder  regions,  although  it  is  said 
to  dwarf  the  tree  somewhat.  Usually  the 
wild  sweet  cherry,  Mazzard,  is  used  for 
sweet  cherries,  and  M'ahaleb  stock,  Primus 
Mahal  eh,  for  the  sour  cherries.  If  the 
cherry  tree  that  you  desire  to  propagate 
is  a  sweet  cherry,  you  would  do  well  to 
plant  a  few  sweet  cherry  seeds  and  bud 
the  seedlings. 
Budding  should  be  done  in  the  Summer, 
before  growth  stops,  aud  yet  not  so  early 
that  the  abundance  of  sap  will  “drown” 
the  bud.  This  time  in  Western  New  York 
is  from  August  1  to  15,  just  before  time 
to  bud  peaches.  h.  b.  t. 
Propagating  Barberries 
Tell  us  how  to  propagate  barberries. 
Long  Island.  E.  s. 
Practically  all  of  the  barberries  germi¬ 
nate  readily  from  seed.  Before  "sowing 
the  seed  it  is  necessary  to  gather  the  ber¬ 
ries  and  separate  the  pulp  from  the  seeds 
by  mashing  and  straining.  After  drying 
them,  they  may  be  sown  in  “flats”  this 
Winter,  or  broadcast  in  beds  in  the  very 
early  Spring.  Ordinarily  it  is  best  to 
broadcast  iii  outdoor  beds  in  the  Fall. 
They  will  germinate  in  the  Spring.  If 
sown  in  the  greenhouse  they  will  germi¬ 
nate  during  the  Winter  and  secure  a  start 
for  the  Spring.  After  growing  one  season 
in  the  flats  or  beds,  they  should  be  trans¬ 
planted  so  as  to  give  them  more  room  for 
growing.  They  can  be  grown  in  the  nur¬ 
sery  until  such  time  as  they  have  reached 
a  satisfactory  age  for  transplanting  to 
the  permanent  hedge. 
It  is  also  possible  to  propagate  bar¬ 
berries  from  green  cuttings  of  young  wood 
taken  between  the  first  and  the  middle  of 
June.  In  fact  this  is  the  way  that  very 
much  of  the  work  is  done.  It  is  especially 
desirable  where  characteristic  habits  of 
an  individual  plant  are  desired  to  be  per¬ 
petuated.  Cuttings  should  be  not  less 
than  5  or  6  in.  long,  and  should  be  placed 
in  sand  in  a  shaded  hotbed.  Be  careful 
in  setting  out  the  cuttings  to  get  the  butt 
end  down  and  the  upper  or  small  end  up. 
Barberries  grow  best  in  a  moist,  light 
loam  soil  which  is  well  drained.  Our 
common  barberries  ( Thunhergii  and  Vul- 
onris)  will  grow  in  fairly  moist  situations. 
G.  H.  W. 
Quick-growing  Shade  Trees 
Name  a  few  quick-growing  shade  trees 
suitable  for  planting  around  a  Summer 
cottage.  h.  d.  c. 
The  poplars,  especially  Carolina  pop¬ 
lar,  will  grow  very  rapidly,  and  under 
some  circumstances  make  a  very  satisfac¬ 
tory  shade  tree.  I  wrould  discourage  you 
from  planting  this  tree.  It  is  compara¬ 
tively  short-lived,  it  is  very  dirty,  and 
has  a  decided  disadvantage  with  regard 
to  its  roots,  which  have  a  tendency  to  pen¬ 
etrate  and  fill  up  drains  and  water  pipes 
within  a  considerable  radius.  As  a  poplar 
tree  grows  and  finally  overshadows  a 
building,  there  is  always  some  danger 
from  falling  branches  during  storms  or 
in  the  Winter  time. 
Box  elder  has  some  advantages  over 
poplar.  Like  poplar,  it  is  rapid  growing, 
but  does  not  attain  the  size.  Poplar  is 
capable  of  attaining  truly  magnificent 
proportions — at  least  100  ft.  in  height. 
Elder  seldom  exceeds  over  50  ft.  It  is 
short-lived,  and  its  wood  is  brittle.  If 
you  are  content  with  a  fairly  small  round- 
headed  tree,  you  will  probably  be  pleased 
with  the  results  of  box  elder. 
I  suggest  that  you  consider  trees  such 
as  elm,  sycamore,  black  walnut,  or  even 
hard  maple.  These  trees  will  attain  a 
decidedly  old  age  and  become  more  beau¬ 
tiful  as  they  develop,  G,  H.  C. 
KAY50 
PRAY  .SPREADER  &  ADHESI 
Without  Kayso 
California  Central  Creameries,  Inc. 
175  Franklin  Street  •  New  York 
SAN  FRANCISCO 
CHICAGO 
LOS  ANGELES 
Without  Kayso 
KNOW  KAYSO  by  results  and  you  will  be  among  the  thousands  or 
successful  orchardists  who  will  use  the  casein  spreader  and  adhesive 
this  year  in  their  control  measures.  Kayso’s  usefulness  has  been  proven 
by  experts  in  horticulture  and  put  to  careful  test  by  hundreds  of  practi¬ 
cal  growers  of  quality  fruit  and  vegetables.  Kayso’s  efficiency  as  a  spreader 
enables  the  grower  to  place  a  complete  and  unbroken  film  of  insecticide 
or  fungicide  over  every  surface  of  foliage,  tree  and  fruit. 
Contrast  the  perfect  coverage  which 
Kayso  gives  with  the  ordinary  applications, 
where  the  spray  materials  collect  in  drops 
on  the  smooth  surfaces,  leaving  numerous 
unprotected  spaces  between  the  drops  which 
readily  permit  infection;  and  bear  in  mind 
that  owing  to  the  remarkable  rate  of  multi¬ 
plication  of  pests  a  single  Brown  Rot  or 
Scab  spore,  San  Jose  Scale,  Aphid,  Psylla, 
or  Red  Spider,  for  example,  escaping  de¬ 
struction  at  the  time  of  spraying,  may  cause 
infection  of  the  fruit  and  foliage  of  several 
trees. 
The  marked  deficiencies  of  ordinary  sprays 
are  the  more  obvious  when  it  is  remembered 
that  the  hole  made  by  the  newly  hatched  Cod¬ 
ling  Moth  worm  or  Curculio  on  entering  the 
fruit  is  about  the  size  of  a  pinhead ;  the  San 
Jose  Sca.le,  Psylla,  Thrips,  Red  Spider,  etc., 
and  the  eggs  of  all  fruit  pests  are  very  small 
and  the  spores  or  “seeds”from  which  Brown 
Rot,  Scab,  Leaf  Curl  and  all  other  diseases  de¬ 
velop  are  microscopic  in  size. 
Kayso’s  remarkable  value  as  an  adhesive 
is  of  no  less  importance  than  its  efficient 
service  as  a  spreader.  The  sticking  quali¬ 
ties  which  Kayso  gives  sprays  largely 
overcome  the  losses  so  frequently  resulting 
from  spraying  too  soon  ( that  is ,  from  spray- 
ing  before  the  infection  period  comes  on) 
or  from  having  the  poisons  washed  off  by 
rains  before  the  infection  period  is  over. 
Kayso’s  adhesiveness  repels  the  washing 
effect  of  rains  and  offsets  the  effect  of  wind 
and  other  weather  conditions  unfavorable 
to  spraying  operations. 
Apples  and  peach  branches  shown  here  are  from  actual  photographs — the  apples  sprayed  with  Arse¬ 
nate  of  Lead,  and  the  peach  branches  sprayed  with  Lime-Sulfur. 
Dealers  should  take  notice  that  Kay'so  is  used  throughout  the  United  States.  Be  ready  to  supply 
your  trade.  Correspondence  invited. 
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Address 
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