296 
27*  RURAL  NEW-YORKER 
February  24.  1923 
The  Home  Dressmaker 
Preparing  fob  Spring. — -New  York 
was  still  cold  and  blustering  when  the 
first  Spring  hats  appeared  on  the  streets; 
not  only  those  of  silk,  raffia,  or  erin  com¬ 
bined  with  straw,  but  also  some  entirely 
straw  with  flowery  trimmings.  There  are 
always  some  straw  hats  worn  in  Jan¬ 
uary,  though  the  display  in  the  stores  is 
meant  for  the  convenience  of  those  going 
South.  Of  course,  plenty  of  Spring  jacket 
suits  are  offered,  too.  many  of  tweed, 
but  we  still  see  jersey  cloth  suits  as  well 
as  dresses  among  the  Spring  models.  We 
notice  a  good  deal  of  gray  in  fabrics  and 
millinery,  some  beautiful  afternoon  dresses 
recently  noted  being  gray  moire.  The 
authorities  say  that  the  general  trend  of 
the  styles  will  be  more  mannish  than  last 
year. 
Circular  Skirt  with  Yoke.-— In  the 
fust  picture,  the  figure  at  the  left  shows 
a  type  of  dress  suitable  for  separate  wear, 
or  for  what  is  called  a  three-piece  suit, 
with  the  addition  of  a  coat  to  match.  In 
this  case  the  skirt  is  circular,  and  at¬ 
tached  to  a  pointed  yoke,  which  is  in  turn 
attached  to  the  waist.  The  material  was 
a  light-weight  cloth  yvith  a  velvety  sur¬ 
face;  the  waist,  of  jumper  style,  had 
guimpe  and  sleeves  of  Persian  silk.  Such 
a  dress,  with  a  box  or  mandarin  coat  of 
A  Circular  Skirt  uml  the  Popular 
Jacquette  Blouse 
the  cloth,  lined  with  the  Persian  silk, 
makes  a  handsome  costume.  In  this  case 
the  cloth  was  a  soft  brownish  taupe,  the 
silk  showing  blue  and  orange,  combined 
with  taupe.  The  hat  was  brown  faille, 
trimmed  with  a  Deauville  scarf  folded 
around  the  crown,  and  tied  in  a  knot 
with  projecting  ends.  The  Deauville  scarf 
or  kerchief,  which  has  been  one  of  the 
most  popular  dress  accessories  of  the 
Winter,  rather  suggests  the  old-time  ban¬ 
danna.  It  is  a  square  of  figured  or  bro¬ 
caded  silk,  from  three-quarters  of  a  yard 
t>  a  yard  and  a  quarter  square.  It  ap¬ 
pears’  as  a  sash  on  many  new  dresses, 
folded  diagonally  and  tied  on  the  hip.  the 
point  draped  over  the  other  hip.  It  is 
worn  across  the  shoulders,  sometimes 
draped  with  the  point  at  one  shoulder, 
the  knot  at  the  other,  or  it  is  worn  as  a 
scarf,  knotted  in  front.  It  is  very  becom¬ 
ing  and  rather  coquettish,  and  since  its 
first  appearance  at  the  famous  French 
watering-place  last  Summer,  has  made  its 
way  to  this  country.  Deauville  scarfs 
cost,  all  the  way  from  about  $2  up  to  $15 
or  more,  according  to  size  and  quality. 
The  Jacquette  Bi.ouse. — The  second 
figure  at  the  right  shows  the  popular 
jacquette  blouse  which,  combined  with  a 
separate  skirt,  makes  an  effective  cos¬ 
tume.  In  this  case  the  skirt  is  a  wrap¬ 
around  model  of  dark  blue  Canton  crepe. 
The  blouse  was  of  figured  silk,  dark  blue 
combined  with  red  and  silver;  the  collar, 
flowing  cuffs  and  sash  were  of  the  dark 
blue  crepe.  This  style  of  blouse  is  often 
used  with  a  pleated  skirt  of  crepe  de 
chine.  The  same  jacquette  shape  in 
matelassd,  blistered  silk,  velvet  or  bro¬ 
cade,  or  in  the  cloth  of  which  the  skirt 
is  composed,  is  often  seen  in  conjunction 
with  such  a  dress  as  the  one  shown  at  the 
left.  The  hat  shown  is  a  small  shape  of 
dark  blue  silk  with  a  blue  and  silver 
cocarde  at  the  side. 
A  Spring  Suit.- — In  the  second  picture 
the  figure  at  the  left  shows  a  Spring  suit 
of  the  more  dressy  type.  The  material 
was  a  soft,  fine  woolen,  the  color  light 
gray  with  p  tinge  of  taupe.  The  plain, 
narrow  skirt  had  five  pin  tucks  extending 
around  it  horizontally,  and  no  other  trim¬ 
ming.  The  short  little  coat,  fitted  with 
a  French  seam  that  was  continued  to 
for  a  border,  in  which  were  slot  pockets, 
had  an  inset  of  silver  braid  at  each  side, 
and  silver  braid  was  also  set  in  the  cuffs. 
The  coat  was  merely  hooked  at  the  neck, 
and  had  no  buttons.  A  high  flaring  mili¬ 
tary  collar  stood  up  around  the  neck.  We 
have  seen  dressy  suits  of  this  character 
for  Southern  wear  made  of  crepe  de  chine, 
and  it  is  also  very  suitable  for  pongee. 
The  little  hat  was  of  raffia,  with  a  cluster 
of  fanev  coque  feathers. 
A  Useful  Jersey  Cloth. — The  model 
in  the  center  is  the  ever-useful  jersey 
cloth  in  a  simple  but  smart  style.  The 
dress  was  plain  down  the  front,  so  as  to 
give  a  panel  effect,  but  was  cut  to  form 
a  belt  at  each  side  of  the  panel,  and  the 
material  gathered  in  to  give  a  little  full¬ 
ness.  The  back  was  made  in  the  same 
way.  Just  below  the  shoulder  was  R 
little  fullness  gathered  into  a  short  seam, 
where  the  fabric  had  been  cut,  so  there 
was  a  yoke  effect  at  the  seam,  though  the 
yoke  itself  was  absent.  The  open  collar, 
with  loops  along  one  edge  and  two  buttons 
at  the  closing,  gave  room  enough  to  slip 
the  dress  on.  The  one  bit  of  trimming 
was  unusual ;  it  was  a  medallion  embroid¬ 
ered  in  wool,  so  as  to  give  the  effect  of  a 
cameo,  the  design  being,  a  classic  head. 
The  dress  itself  was  old  rose,  the  embroid¬ 
ery  black,  white  and  pe'acock  blue.  The 
hat  shown  had  a  black  straw  brim  and 
a  high  folded  crown  of  figured  black  and 
white  silk. 
A  GibiJs  Jersey  Frock. — The  girl’s 
dress  shown  follows  quite  closely  the  style 
of  her  elders,  for  it  was  of  jersey  cloth, 
too.  and  trimmed  with  medallions  of  wool 
embroidery.  It  was  pewter  gray,  the  me¬ 
dallions,  which  were  of  flowers  and  foli¬ 
age.  being  rose,  green  and  black.  The  belt 
was  cut  to  extend  from  the  plain  front, 
just  as  it  does  in  the  adult  dress,  the  full¬ 
ness  being  gathered  into  this  belt  in  the 
back,  while  the  front  was  plain,  except 
for  the  embroidered  medallions.  We  have 
also  seen  some  pretty  wash  frocks  of  this 
style,  with  medallions  of  lace  let  in.  It 
is  these  little  touches  in  trimming  that 
give  style  and  individuality  to  a  simple 
dress. 
Wash  Goods. — Such  old  standards  as 
gingham,  chambray  and  percale  are  al¬ 
ways  with  us.  The  fine  Scotch  and  Eng¬ 
lish  ginghams,  in  desirable  colors,  seem 
rather  cheaper  than  last  season.  Hand 
kerchief  linen,  popular  at  the  Southern 
resorts,  comes  in  checks,  stripes  and  dots, 
including  many  brilliant  colors.  Cotton 
homespun,  which  is  a  very  useful  fabric, 
is  offered  in  plaids,  stripes  and  openwork 
effects,  as  well  as  solid  colors.  Hand- 
blocked  French  cretonne  in  quaint  and 
brilliant  Russian  patterns  is  offered  for 
dress  use,  to  be  made  into  children’s 
frocks,  separate  skirts  and  maudarin 
coats.  A  new  fabric  is  Rodier  rezoerepe, 
a  wavy  crepe  corded  in  small  squares, 
some  all  white,  some  colored  with  a  white 
cord. 
New  Silks. — Printed  silks  lead  all  oth¬ 
ers  in  the  Spring  styles.  They  show  both 
large  and  small  patterns,  but  Oriental 
designs  are  much  in  evidence,  though 
there  are  also  French  flower  patterns 
and  geometrical  patterns  of  the  modern¬ 
ist  style.  The  colors  are  sharp  and  vivid. 
Plain  silks  are.  of  course,  used  also,  and 
these  include  soft  pastel  colors,  gray  and 
the  long-popular  beige  and  brown  tones. 
Vivid  Lanvin  green  that  is  neither  jade 
nor  emerald,  is  greatly  used,  and  also 
appears  often  in  millinery.  Some  of  the 
splashy  pictorial  patterns  seen  on  the 
printed  silks  are  quite  startling,  for  they 
include  birds,  animals  and  flowers,  or 
ships,  castles  and  scenery  in  the  Japanese 
manner.  These  silks  are  used  for  dresses, 
blouses,  and  also  for  the  short,  full,  loose¬ 
sleeved  coats  called  paletots. 
Notes  and  Novelties.— -What  are 
called  bodice  skirts  consist  of  a  pleated 
skirt  of  satin  or  Canton  crepe  attached 
to  a  straight  camisole  top  of  the  same 
material.  With  a  jacquette  or  blouse 
they  compose  an  attractive  costume  at 
moderate  cost.  These  skirts  are  offered 
readymade  in  black,  dark  blue,  brown  and 
gray.  Wool  Canton  crepe  is  used  for 
very  attractive  pleated  skirts. 
Some  striking  blouses  consisted  of  two 
yard-square  I  >eauville  kerchiefs  seamed 
together  at  the  shoulder  and  under  the 
arm,  thus  making  a  straight,  loose,  sleeve¬ 
less  blouse  to  be  worn  over  the  skirt,  the 
neck  being  a  straight  and  shallow  open¬ 
ing.  Some  handsome  costume  blouses  are 
of  tinsel-shot  Paisley  broche  with  crepe 
de  chine  sleeves.  Others  in  the  jacquette 
shape  are  of  velveteen  with  tinsel  em¬ 
broidery.  There  are  also  some  gauzy 
blouses  of  lace  over  chiffon. 
Candlewiek  trimming  is  seen  on  some 
new  dresses  of  linen  and  homespun. 
Very  charming,  and  also  expensive, 
are  dresses  of  unbleached  muslin  trimmed 
with  Ukrainian  cross-stitch  in  gay  colors. 
Russian  embroideries  in  brilliant  col¬ 
ors  trim  many  of  the  Spring  dresses. 
Some  charming  dresses  in  natural  pongee 
had  designs  in  brilliant  silk  patchwork, 
embroidered  on,  trimming  the  sleeve, 
bidice  and  skirt  in  isolated  motifs. 
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