Vh*  RURAL  NEW-YORKER 
313 
Planting  Asparagus  in  the 
Home  Garden 
AX  OLD  CROP. — The  history  of  our 
edible  species  of  asparagus  (As¬ 
paragus  officinalis)  goes  back  to  the 
shadow  of  antiquity  when  the  ancients 
used  the  stems  and  roots  for  medicinal 
purposes.  We  still  look  on  this  vege¬ 
table  as  a  necessary  part,  of  the  veg¬ 
etable  diet  not  alone  because,  according 
to  Dr.  Henry  0.  Sherman,  it  contains 
2.1  per  cent  protein.  3.3  per  cent  fat, 
2.2  total  carbohydrates  (including 
fiber),  .8  per  cent  ash.  91.6  per  cent 
water,  with  a  fuel  value  per  pound  of 
213  calories,  but  because  it  has  been 
found  by  physicians  of  today  to  have 
a  medicinal  value  to  the  human  body. 
When  we  stop  to  consider  that  from  SO 
to  100  plants  which  require  a  row  of 
about  120  ft.,  may  he  expected  to  pro¬ 
duce  60  to  100  lbs.  of  asparagus,  we  are 
ready  to  give  this  plant  space  in  our 
gardens.  While  asparagus  will  adapt 
itself  to  various  types  of  soil  and  cli¬ 
matic  conditions,  we  are  always  inter¬ 
ested  in  giving  the  plant  a  congenial  environment 
in  order  to  get  a  maximum  return  from  a  minimum 
space  and  expenditure  of  money  and  energy. 
CULTURAL  REQUIREMENTS.— We  find  that  as¬ 
paragus  reaches  perfection  and  yields  large  crops  at 
Roots  placed  in  a  trench  6  in.  below  the  surface.  Note  the  rich  soil,  well  filled  with 
decaying  vegetable  matter  in  the  form  of  stable  manure.  The  soil  is  made  fertile 
6_or  8  in.  below  the  roots.  With  this  treatment  of  the  soil  the  roots  go  down  to  from 
3o  to  18  hw^elow  the  surface  soil  and  are.  less  in  danger  of  the  bad  effects  from  droughts. 
growth.  The  southern  exposure  is  considered  the  best. 
In  any  event  protect  the  asparagus  beds  from  winds 
which  not  only  have  a  tendency  to  injure  the  matur¬ 
ing  plants,  but  also  play  an  important  part  in  the 
waste  of  moisture,  especially  during  July  and  Au¬ 
gust.  when  the  plants  are  storing  up  energy  in  their 
roots  to  produce  a  crop  for  next  year.  Asparagus, 
therefore,  needs  a  moist  soil — never  a  wet  soil — 
throughout  the  season. 
IMPROVING  FERTILITY.— Suppose  your  soil  is 
clay  that  is  a  bit  stiff,  and  yet  you  want  an  aspara¬ 
gus  bed.  The  first  thing  to  do  is  to  apply  3  or  4  in. 
of  fresh  horse  manure,  where  the  animals  have  been 
bedded  in  straw,  over  the  area  to  be  planted.  Dig 
this  into  the  first  12  in.  of  soil  in  the  Fall,  leaving 
the  clods  in  the  rough,  and  allow  the'  elements  during 
the  Winter  to  mellow  them.  Early  in  the  Spring  dig 
a  trench  at  least  10  in.  deep  and  from  18  to  24  in. 
wide,  throwing  the  soil  into  a  ridge  on  each  side  of 
the  trench.  Now  apply  2  or  3  in,  of  well-decayed 
stable  manure  and  a  liberal  sprinkling  of  coarse 
bonemeal,  and  from  2  to  4  in.  of  sand.  Dig  this  into 
the  trench,  mixing  the  manure,  sand  and  bonemeal 
thoroughly  with  the  soil  to  a  depth  of  6  or  8  in.  it 
if  most  important  to  get  the  fertilizer  under  the 
roots.  While  an  application  of  fertilizer  each  Fall 
and  Spring  is  necessary,  the  fertilizer  tnat  may  be 
reached  by  the  young  roots  below  the  crown  will 
mean  more  in  production  than  food  applied  above 
the  plant;  but  the  roots  should  never  come  in  direct 
contact  with  fresh  manure.  If  the  soil  is  sandy,  one 
must  incorporate  from  3  to  4  in.  of  humus  in  the 
form  of  stable  manure,  muck,  peat  or  leaf  mold. 
The  same  application  of  stable  manure  and  bone- 
meal  as  suggested  for  clay  should  be  applied  to  sand. 
If  either  one  of  the  two  fertilizers  is  increased,  it 
should  be  the  stable  manure,  in  order  to  furnish  the 
much-needed  humus  to  feed  the  plant  and  hold 
moisture. 
quickly,  but  will  approximately  double 
the  amount  of  growth  over  the 
two  -  year  -  old  roots  and  triple  the 
growth  over  the  three-year-old  roots 
at  the  end  of  three  to  five  years’  pro¬ 
duction.  There  are,  of  course,  more 
two-year-old  roots  sold  to  home  gar¬ 
deners  than  one-year-old  plants,  and  if 
properly  planted  will  yield  heavily  and 
live  a  long  time.  Never  plant  a  small 
crown  or  one  where  the  roots  have 
dried  out,  for  invariably  these  weak 
plants  never  amount  to  anything.  Now 
that  we  are  decided  on  the  age  and 
condition  of  the  “crown”  or  “stool,” 
one  should  follow  faithfully  certain 
suggestions  in  planting. 
SETTING  THE  PLANTS.  —  First 
and  most  important,  do  not  twist  or 
crowd  the  roots.  If  the  roots  a  re  long, 
cut  them  back  to  within  6  in.  of  the 
bud.  The  “crowns”  should  be  set  at 
least  8  iu.  below  the  surface.  The 
rows  should  run  north  and  south 
where  possible,  to  get  the  benefit  of 
the  sun,  and  the  roots  spread' out.  I 
have  found  that  a  trench  dug  8  in.  in 
depth,  with  the  soil  at  the  bottom  of  the  trench 
loosened  and  well  fertilized  at  least  another  8  in. 
and,  wherever  possible  an  inch  of  wood  earth  spread 
beneath  the  roots  before  they  are  planted,  will  make 
an  ideal  condition  iu  which  to  establish  the  bed. 
A  String  of  Plant  Frames.  Fig.  117.  (Set  Ve.rt  I'agc) 
Left- 
8ELECTION  OF  ROOTS. — Now  that  the  soil  is  The  roots  should  be  spread  out  and  spaced  1%  to  2 
-Thrifty  stalk  grown  from  five-year-old  roots  in 
a  well-fertilized  soil. 
Right — Stalks  grown  from  five-year-old  roots,  poorly 
fertilized  and  the  bed  weedy. 
low  altitudes  and  near  large  bodies  of  water  where 
the  temperature  is  moderated.  We  cannot  all  select 
the  ideal  climate  for  the  culture  of  this  perennial 
crop,  but  Ave  can  prepare  the  soil  so 
that  the  bed  or  plantation  will 
yield  fair  crops  and  last  from  eight 
to  10  years.  The  ideal  soil  is  a  light, 
deep,  friable  sandy  loam,  well  filled 
with  humus  in  the  form  of  well-rotted 
manure,  having  a  light  clay  subsoil 
which  should  be  from  12  to  34  in.  be¬ 
low  the  surface.  One  thing  is  certain 
— all  soils  must  be  AA'ell  drained,  as 
asparagus  roots  soon  decay  if  water  is 
allowed  to  stand  on  the  land  during 
the  Winter,  eaily  Spring,  or  after  a 
rain.  If  water  lodges  on  the  soil  for  a 
part  of  the  Winter,  and  especially  in 
the  Spring  when  the  snow  and  ice  are 
melting,  the  oxygen  is  not  only  shut 
away  from  the  roots,  but  the  plants,  if 
they  do  survive,  Avill  be  checked  in 
growth  and  always  weak  and  thin. 
Two  of  the  most  important  factors  in 
the  culture  of  asparagus  are  sunshine 
and  a  soil  that  will  warm  up  quickly 
in  the  Spring  and  thus  cause  a  rapid 
well  prepared,  the  next  most  important  step  is  to 
select  the  roots.  Nothing  is  to  be  gained  by  selecting 
tAvo,  three  or  four-year-old  roots  in  the  hope  that 
time  might  be  saved  and  a  cutting  of  asparagus  taken 
after  the  first  or  second  year’s  growth.  One-year- 
old  “crowns”  or  “stools”  with  Avell-developed  buds 
and  plump  roots  Avill  not  only  become  established 
It  is  important  to  space  the  plants  properly.  ti»  spread  out  the  roots  and  to  give 
them  a  downward  position. 
ft.  apart  in  rows  spaced  about  4  ft.  apart, 
FI  RTIIER  CARE. — In  the  North  it  is  advisable 
to  set  out  the  roots  of  asparagus  in  the  Spring,  and 
as  soon  as  the  soil  is  fit  to  work,  which  means  Avhen 
it  does  not  stick  to  the  implement  or  break  up  into 
soggy  clods;  cover  the  crown  at  first  Avith  about  2  in. 
of  soil.  About  July  1  begin  to  Avork  in  the  soil  from 
both  sides  of  the  trench.  For  se\reral 
years  I  have  found  if  most  beneficial  to 
sprinkle  coarse  bonemeal  at  the  rate  of 
about  2  lbs.  per  2.”*  ft.  of  row  before  ap¬ 
plying  the  additional  soil.  The  soil  cov¬ 
ering  the  roots  should  he  friable  and 
rich.  liy  Fall  the  trench  should  be  full 
and  slightly  mounded  so  as  to  get  the 
roots  below  the  frost  line.  Keep  up  cul¬ 
tivation  during  the  entire  season  and 
keep  out  all  weeds.  No  asparagus  should 
he  cut  from  these  one-year-old  roots  un¬ 
til  the  plants  have  been  established  at 
least  three  years.  The  fourth  year,  cut 
sparingly,  and  stop  cutting  as  soon  as 
the  shoots  become  a  bit  slender,  which 
will  mean  about  six  weeks  of  harvest. 
About  July  1  allow  the  plants  to  send 
up  their  plume-like  tops,  which  should 
be  kept  green  and  thrifty,  because 
through  these  leaves  the  food  is  manu¬ 
factured  and  then  stored  up  in  the 
root  system  for  the  next  year's  crop. 
HUGH  FIX  OLAY. 
