Vk  RURAL  NEW-YORKER 
523 
The  Home  Dressmaker 
Spring  Suggestions. — While  the  pres¬ 
ent.  silhouette  is  plain  and  straight,  there 
is  a  tendency  to  vary  it.  Pleats,  circular 
godets  and  inserts  are  used,  and  the  new¬ 
est  skirts  are  not  so  narrow  as  they  have 
been.  They  are  a  little  shorter,  too ;  the 
tendency  to  creep  downward  is  checked, 
and  they  are  already  growing  shorter. 
AVe  do  not.  look  for  the  exaggerated  short¬ 
ness  of  two  years  ago.  but  it  seems  quite 
settled  that  women  will  not  return  to 
trailing  skirts.  Different  fashion  designers 
select  different  lengths,  and  any  woman 
can  select  the  style  best  suited  to  her 
taste.  A  good  deal  of  drapery  is  used, 
sometimes  at  the  sides,  and  sometimes 
bunched  after  the  Egyptian  manner  i» 
front,  or  side  front,  but  it  is  always  so 
disposed  as  to  seem  straight  in  outline. 
Among  the  Spring  wraps  are  loose  coats 
that  tie  with  a  large,  full  bow  at  the  left 
side,  and  the  same  style  is  noted  in  dressy 
jacket  suits.  One  who  must  wear  her 
wrap  or  suit  for  a  considerable  time 
would  be  wise  to  choose  a  more  conserva- 
'l'hc  \cw  Flounces  and  a  Model  in 
Flat  Crepe 
tive  model ;  a  plain  tailored  garment  is 
in  good  taste  even  when  not  of  the  newest 
mode,  while  a  more  extreme  style  is  no¬ 
ticeable  after  its  first  vogue  is  past. 
Among  useful  wraps  we  see  plain  tailored 
capes,  full  length,  of  tweed  or  cam  el ’s- 
hair.  They  are  very  convenient  to  slip 
over  a  Spring  jacket  suit  or  woolen  dress 
when  riding,  or  when  Spring’s  changeable 
weather  brings  chilly  winds. 
Flounces  Assert  Themselves.  —  In 
the  first  picture  the  figure  at  the  left 
shows  how  flounces  are  putting  them¬ 
selves  in  front.  There  is  a  tendency  to 
put  all  sorts  of  drapery  directly  in  front 
of  the  skirt,  instead  of  at  the  sides,  this 
being  a  result  of  the  general  taste  for 
things  Egyptian — a  distant  imitation  of 
the  tight  Egyptian  drapery  swathed 
around  the  hips  and'  bunched  in  front. 
In  this  case  the  dress  has  four  flounces, 
rather  scantily  gathered,  which  go  across 
the  front,  but  do  not  extend  to  sides  or 
back.  The  neck  has  a  smoothly  fitting 
round  collar,  and  the  plain  sleeves  are 
short.  This  dress  was  made  of  beige  silk, 
and  the  collar,  flounces  and  sleeves  were 
edged  with  loops  of  ribbon,  set  quite 
closely  together.  The  dress  itself  was 
the  plain  one-piece  style,  held  by  a  nar¬ 
row  girdle,  that  is  so  familiar,  but  the 
front  flounces  made  it  novel.  It  would 
be  quite  practical  for  cotton  or  linen, 
with  loops  of  bias  binding,  or  one  of  the 
made  trimmings  formed  by  loops,  that 
are  sold  so  cheaply.  The  hat  shown  had  a 
crown  of  beige  taffeta  closely  embroidered 
with  chenille  in  several  colors,  and  a 
brim  of  fine  dark  brown  straw. 
Green  Flat  Crepe. — The  dress  at  the 
right  is  Lanvin  green  silk,  a  flat  crepe  of 
firm  texture.  The  fresh,  bright  green 
made  a  decided  contrast  with  the  em¬ 
broidery  which  formed  the  trimming.  The 
narrow  panels  at  the  sides,  the  collar, 
neck  opening,  sleeves  and  cuffs  were  all 
finished  with  blanket  stitch  in  heavy 
white  silk.  ,  The  long  sleeves  were  slightly 
gathered  into  narrow  wristbands,  leaving 
a  part  of  the  fullness  free  and  open,  mere¬ 
ly  edged  with  the  blanket  stitch.  There 
was  a  queer  patch  of  embroidery  on  the 
left  sleeve,  the  design  showing  two  fan¬ 
tastic  animals  standing  to  face  one  an¬ 
other,  like  the  lion  and  unicorn,  and  a 
square  pocket  on  the  right  side  of  the 
skirt  showed  the  same  design.  This  de¬ 
sign  was  in  white,  edged  with  black,  and 
with  a  little  spot  of  coral  pink  here  and 
there.  It  was  very  quaint  and  pretty, 
and  the  dress  was  a  very  eharmijig  one. 
The  plain  narrow  girdle  confining  the 
dress  at  the  waist  wras  of  the  silk,  and 
without  trimming. 
Buttons  and  Brocade. — In  the  second 
picture  the  figure  at  the  left  shows  a 
dress  of  plain  and  brocaded  crepe  de 
chine,  golden  brown  in  color.  This  dress 
would  be  especially  becoming  to  a  short, 
plump  woman,  for  the  straight  panel 
front  and  long  panels  at  sides  will  all 
hrip  to  give  height  and  slenderness.  The 
f ■•out  and  back  werp  of  the  nlain  material, 
the  side  panels  brocaded.  The  trimming 
was  composed  of  small  oval  buttons.  At 
the  sides  of  the  panel,  on  front  of  the 
waist,  the  buttons  are  set 'dose  together 
diagonally,  so  as  to  make  a  vine-like  pat¬ 
tern.  A  double  row  of  buttons  put  on 
in  the  same  way  formed  a  girdle,  which 
was  finished  in  front  by  two  “roses” 
formed  of  the  buttons  put  on  close  to¬ 
gether  in  an  ornamental  pattern.  The 
Gbow  sleeves  were  rather  loose,  and 
merely  finished  with  a  pipe  of  the  plain 
material.  This  dress  not  onD  suggests 
a  becoming  style  for  the  stout  figure,  but 
also  a  method  of  utilizing  a  scant  amount 
of  material  by  adding  a  printed  or  bro¬ 
caded  fabric.  The  hat  is  a  simple  toque 
of  dark  brown  straw  cloth,  with  a  bronze 
fancy  feather. 
A  Bandanna  Blouse.  —  The  central 
figure  shows  a  blouse  made  from  two 
Deauville  scarves  or  kerchiefs.  We  see 
a  good  many  of  these  .showy  scarves  util¬ 
ized  in  this  way.  Some  of  them,  made 
from  the  smaller  kerchiefs,  have  no 
sleeves,  and  are  merely  seamed  over  the 
shoulder  and  under  the  arm.  They  are 
usually  worn  as  shown,  over  a  pleated 
skirt  of  satin  or  crepe  de  chine. 
A  Kerchief  Yoke. — The  little  girl  at 
the  right  has  a  dress  of  rust-colored  crepe 
de  chine  with  a  yoke  made  from  a  Deau¬ 
ville  scarf.  It  is  cut  with  kimono  sleeves 
and  slips  on  over  the  head.  The  front 
and  back  of  the  dress  have  a  pleated 
panel  in  the  center,  bordered  by  straps 
that  pass  over  the  shoulder.  There  is  no 
girdle,  the  dress  falling  loose  from  the 
yoke.  This  dress  was  both  pretty  and 
practical,  and  it  suggested  an  idea  for 
an.  attractive  wash  dress,  having  a  yoke 
of  dress  cretonne  or  English  print,  and 
the  remainder  of  ehambray  or  gingham 
in  a  solid  color. 
.  Spring  Fabrics. — Novelty  knitted  fab¬ 
rics  of  wool  with  embroidered  silk  borders 
were  noted,  52  in.  wide,  $5.50  a  yard. 
These  are  made  into  plain  straight  or 
wrap-around  dresses  with  the  border  at 
the_  hem.  Camel’s-liair,  natural  color, 
plain  shades,  overplaids,  and  stripes,  is  in 
high  favor.  There  are  a  good  many  suits 
and  separate  coats  of  camel’s-hair.  This 
material  is  54  in.  wide,  and  was  seen  in 
fine  quality  at  $4.S5  a  yard.  Among  cot¬ 
ton  goods,  ratines  show  handsome  designs 
and  fancy  weaves  at  95c  a  yard.  This 
season  dress  materials  are  very  gay,  both 
in  color  and  design,  and  everything  Ori¬ 
ental  or  Egyptian  is  in  favor.  As  Egyp¬ 
tian  styles  are  in  especial  favor,  the  new 
dresses  show  long,  straight  dines,  "mum¬ 
my  frocks”  being  the  preferred  model. 
A  handsome  "three-piece”  suit  was  .  a 
complete  frock  of  beige  crepe,  both  waiW, 
and  skirt  accordion  pleated.  The  short 
box  jacket  was  of  Paisley  woolen,  in  the 
soft  red  of  the  old  shawls,  bound  all 
around  with  black  cire  ribbon.  The  Pais¬ 
ley  fabric  was  used  for  belt  and  trimming 
on  the  waist.  Another  smart  suit  of  navy 
blue  Poiret  twill  had  a  little  Eton  jacket 
with  rounded  fronts,  trimmed  with  white 
cord  and  buttons.  The  suit  was  com¬ 
pleted  by  a  short-sleeved  blouse  of  white 
Canton  crepe. 
Flounces  have  come  back,  but  they  are 
not  full  and  frilly — either  circular  or  flat, 
pleats.  Three-tier  dresses  are  shown, 
having  the  skirt  composed  of  three  pleated 
flounces,  the  waist  long  and  plain,  the 
short  sleeves  finished  with  a  pleating. 
One  attractive  dress  from  Paris,  made 
of  gay  printed  silk,  had  a  two-tiered  skirt 
A  Slenderising  Model,  a  Bandanna  Blouse 
and  a  Pretty  Juvenile 
of  narrow  knife  pleatings.  The  waist  was 
plain,  with  a  broad,  low  girdle,  and  the 
sleeves,  reaching  just  above  the  elbow, 
were  formed  of  a  pleating. 
Some  very  pretty  children’s  dresses  arc 
figured  prints  in  simple  bishop  style, 
finished  with  bias  binding  in  solid  color. 
It  is  wonderful  how  much  this  prepared 
binding,  accurately  cut  and  folded,  sim¬ 
plifies  the  making  of  wash  dresses. 
Applied  designs,  for  trimming,  both  on  ! 
suits  and  dresses,  include  elaborate  braid¬ 
ing,  wool  embroidery,  silk  cable  stitching,  i 
cross-stitch  designs,  cut-out  leather  ami 
leather  binding,  metal  embroidery,  lat¬ 
ticed  ribbon,  heavy  silk  cords  and  cotton 
embroidery.  Elaborate  applique  designs 
are  often  used  as  trimming. 
The  deep  V  neckline  has  returned,  and 
is  seen  on  many  new  dresses.  It  is  more 
generally  becoming  than  the  bateau  neck. 
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