The  RURAL  NEW-YORKER 
781 
The  Home  Dressmaker 
Lingering  Spring. — The  season  is  so 
late  that  Winter  wraps  have  lingered 
with  us,  and  the  middle  of  May  still 
ealls  for  warm  clothing.  The  shops  are 
full  of  silk  suits  and  light-weight  sports 
clothes,  and  we  look  for  decided  reduc¬ 
tions  in  prices  for  the  midsummer  sales. 
Spring  furs  have  really  been  needed  this 
year.  Among  these  an  interesting  fea¬ 
ture  is  the  beauty  secured  by  dyeing 
familiar  furs  in  fashionable  colors.  The 
fashionable  fox  scarves  vary  from  deep 
sable  tones  to  delicate  beige,  as  well  as 
the  beautiful  platinum  shades.  A  fea¬ 
ture  to  be  remarked  in  these  scarves  is 
that  they  do  not  have  a  silk  lining  on 
the  reverse  side,  the  inner  side  being  of 
the  shorter  under  fur,  so  that  the  entire 
scarf  is  of  fur.  Of  course  they  are  not 
worn  tight  around  the  neck.  A  good  fox 
scarf  of  this  type  costs  from  $50  to  $125, 
the  platinum  dye  usually  averaging  from 
$75  up.  We  have  seen  some  brown  fox 
(s' 
Two  Simple  Styles  in  Sports  Dresses 
of  attractive  appearance  as  low  as  $35. 
Mink  seems  a  little  cheaper  than  it  was, 
probably  because  it  is  not  now  as  fash¬ 
ionable  as  fox.  We  have  seen  some  of 
rhe  tight  little  mink  chokers,  single  skin, 
as  low  as  $24,  but  this  can  only  be  worn 
as  a  collar  tight  around  the  throat ;  two 
of  these  little  chokers  are  often  joined  to 
form  a  scarf.  Most  of  the  big  city  stores 
now  hold  their  special  fur  sales  in  Au¬ 
gust,  and  this  is  the  most  economical 
time  to  buy.  Furs  bought  at  that  time 
are  held  in  storage  for  the  purchaser 
until  cold  weather,  or  whenever  required. 
Some  Sports  Dresses. — In  the  first 
picture  are  two  simple  sports  dresses, 
such  as  one  sees  in  a  great  variety  of 
materials — silks  of  various  weaves,  linen 
and  ratine  or  other  fancy  cottons.  The 
dress  at  the  left  was  white,  trimmed  with 
bright  red  bands.  A  band  of  red  went 
up  the  side  of  the  waist  to  the  shoulder 
and  then  extended  at  right  angles  just 
above  the  girdle  to  the  opposite  side.  On 
the  skirt  a  band  of  red  started  at  one 
side,  and  passed  across  the  front  a  little 
below  the  girdle,  then  turned  at  an  angle 
and  extended  vertically  down  the.  skirt  to 
the  hem.  Bands  of  red  finished  the 
turned-back  cuffs  and  rolled  collar.  The 
narrow  girdle  was  of  red.  Red  is  very 
much  worn  this  season,  and  red  and 
white  is  a  very  popular  combination. 
This  dress  w’as  so  plain  that  it  presents 
few  difficulties  in  making,  and  would  be 
quite  simple  to  put  together.  It  would 
be  pretty  and  practical  in  gray  linen 
with  dark  blue  bands.  The  hat.  a  plain 
sailor  shape  in  red,  is  trimmed  at  the 
back  with  one  of  those  pleated  ribbon 
cockades  now  so  fashionable,  sometimes 
placed  at  the  back  and  sometimes  at  the 
side.  Sometimes  these  cockades  are  very 
large;  sometimes  they  are  placed  flat,  as 
shown,  and  sometimes  they  stand  out 
sideways  or  at  an  angle.  Ribbon  trim¬ 
ming,  either  bows  or  cockades,  is  very 
often  placed  directly  at  the  back. 
Changed  Hairdressing. — In  looking 
at  the  figure  at  the  right  the  casual  ob¬ 
server  may  wonder  whether  the  hairdress¬ 
ing  is  not  a  mistake,  with  its  formal 
parting  and  waves  drawn  back  neatly  to 
a  classical  coil  at  the  nape  of  the  neck. 
It  looks  old-fashioned,  after  the  buns 
and  bobs  we  have  become  accustomed  to. 
However,  simple  classical  coiffures  which 
show  the  shape  of  the  head  have  returned 
once  more,  and  we  may  hope,  to  view  a 
gradual  disappearance  of  the  monstrous 
erections  so  long  in  favor.  Modern 
French  fashions  call  for  the  hair  parted 
and  coiled  a  la  Greeque,  or  arranged  in 
smooth  bands  around  the  head.  Ears 
are  showing  once  more,  in  part  a  result 
of  the  universal  vogue  for  earrings,  but 
styles  in  general  are  much  more  dignified, 
and  the  arrangement  of  the  hair  goes 
with  it.  The  dress  figured  was  white 
combined  with  Lanvin  green,  the  skirt 
being  green,  bound  with  white,  which 
edges  the  seam  at  the  left  side.  The 
waist  is  white,  with  bands  of  green  on 
cuffs  and  collar.  This  wouM  be  a  very 
pretty  model  for  linen. 
A  Pretty  Voile. — In  the  second  pic¬ 
ture  the  first  model  was  a  girl’s  dress  of 
white  voile,  trimmed  with  puffings  of 
Lanvin  green.  The  dress  itself  was  per¬ 
fectly  plain,  the  round  neck  having  two 
full  little  finger  puffings  of  the  green, 
edged  with  ecru  lace.  The  short  sleeves 
were  gathered  in  with  similar  puffings 
and  there  were  four  little  puffings  at  the 
waist.  We  saw  several  dainty  flowered 
voiles  made  in  the  same  way,  having 
puffings  either  of  green  or  of  a  color  to 
harmonize  with  the  flowers.  This  would 
also  be  a  pretty  model  for  a  child’s  voile 
dress  that  was  intended  for  better  wear, 
and  expected  to  be  worn  for  some  time 
without  laundering.  A  very  practical 
little  frock  would  be  of  beige  or  tan  voile 
with  a  dark  blue  figure  and  dark  blue 
puffings.  A  simple  dress  of  this  sort  is 
usually  becoming,  and  saves  work,  though 
the  Dresden  flowered  voile  with  its  green 
puffings  is  especially  dainty.  The  hat  is 
a  Corday  shape  with  straw  brim  and 
Georgette  crown  of  Lanvin  green, 
trimmed  with  a  wreath  of  black-eyed 
white  daisies  and  narrow  black  ribbon 
velvet. 
Brown  and  Red. — The  central  figure 
wears  a  suit  of  fine  woolen  twill,  a  light 
golden  brown  in  color.  The  skirt  is 
gored,  this  being  rendered  more  notice¬ 
able  by  a  strap  of  the  material,  cut 
crosswise,  stitched  flat  down  the  front 
gores.  The  skirt  of  the  coat  was  trimmed 
with  straps  of  the  material  cut  to  a  right 
angle  at  the  top,  where  the  strap  was 
loose,  arid  showed  a  facing  of  bright  red 
cloth.  The  turn-back  cuffs  had  an  inset 
band  of  the  red  twill,  while  the  high 
standing  collar,  flaring  at  the  front,  had 
a  band  of  white  broadcloth  at  the  upper 
edge,  with  a  band  of  red  twill  below'  it. 
The  most  unusual  feature  of  this  suit 
was  the  blouse  that  w'ent  with  it.  This 
was  fine  white  voile.  The  sleeves  of  the 
coat  w’ere  a  little  shorter  than  is  usual, 
and  the  cuffs  of  the  blouse  came  below, 
fastened  w'ith  bright  red  cuff  links.  The 
front  of  the  blouse  was  trimmed  with 
what  looked  like  a  solid  embroidery  in 
bright  red,  but  closer  inspection  showed 
it  to  be  squares  of  the  red  cloth,  appliqued 
on  to  form  a  design  in  combination  with 
scrolls  of  black  done  in  Kensington 
stitch.  This  was  very  effective,  though 
quite  simple,  and  the  suit  wras  really  a 
striking  one.  The  hat  shown  is  a  black 
satin  straw  trimmed  with  a  black  fancy 
feather. 
A  Two-color  Dress.— -The  girl’s  dress 
at  the  right  was  of  voile,  a  pretty  com¬ 
bination  of  beige  and  green.  The  upper 
part  was  of  the  beige,  the  skirt  portion 
of  Lanvin  green,  faggoted  to  the  upper 
part.'  The  waist  wras  slightly  gathered 
at  rhe  shoulder  seams  and  at  the  round 
neck,  where  there  was  a  binding  of  the 
green  attached  by  '  faggoting,  also  edging 
the  short  sleeves.  This  style  of  dress  is 
also  shown  in  white  voile  combined  with 
a  color.  There  is  really  a  very  good 
suggestion  in  this  model  for  utilizing  an 
outgrown  dress,  for  with  new  material 
for  the  top  one  could  often  find  enough 
for  the  lower  skirt  and  trimming  in  a 
garment  otherwise  too  small. 
Votes  and  Novelties.  —  Silk  capes 
and  loose  cape  wraps,  belted,  bloused 
draped  or  straight,  are  much  in  evidence 
for  Summer  wear.  Fabrics  used  are  Can- 
fon  crepe,  Roshanara  crepe,  flat  crepe, 
faille  and  novelty  silks.  We  noted  some 
simple  models  at  $12.75.  while  some  at 
$19.75  were  trimmed  with  monkey  fur. 
Monkey  is  an  especially  favored  Summer 
fur  for  trimming.  More  expensive  capes 
•are  beautifully  lined  and  trimmed. 
Costume  slips,  now  a  necessity  with 
the  straight-line  dresses,  ‘  are  very  dif¬ 
ferent  from  the  old  style  closely  gored 
princess  model.  They  foll/hr  the  straight 
camisole  shape  as  to  top,  b'fit  the  newer 
ones  have  fullness  introduced  over  the 
hip,  while  a  20-inch  hem  prevents  trans¬ 
parency.  The  materials  include  tub  silk, 
sateen,  radium  silk,  crepe  dc  chine  and 
crepe  meteor. 
NEW 
PERFECTION 
Oil  Cook  Slaves  and  Ovens 
Drives 
drudgery  out 
of  the  kitchen 
WOT  only  money  but  work  as  well  is 
Xl  saved  by  the  New  Perfection.  You  light 
it  when  you’re  ready  to  cook,  not  before, 
and  you  can  put  it  out  the  instant  you’re 
through.  That’s  one  reason  why  it’s  so 
economical  with  fuel.  The  other  is  the  fact 
that  all  the  fuel  is  turned  to  heat— no  ashes. 
And  when  a  New  Perfection  comes  into  a 
kitchen,  the  old  wood  box,  coal  hod,  kin¬ 
dling  litter,  wood  smoke  and  coal  gas  go  out! 
And  there’s  no  more  stove  blacking  to  do. 
A  cleaner,  cooler  kitchen  and  better  cook¬ 
ing  result  because  the  intense  heat  is  always 
under  perfect  control.  The  New  Perfection 
is  handsome,  easy  to  keep  clean  and  simple 
to  operate.  These  are  a  few  of  the  reasons 
why  over  4,000,000  New  Perfections  are 
used  today,  in  the  city  and  country,  the 
year  round. 
Any  New  Perfection  dealer  will  demon¬ 
strate  it  for  you. 
f 
or  best  results  use  — 
SO CONY KEROSENE 
STANDARD  OIL  CO.  OF  NEW  YORK 
26  Broadway 
