H*  RURAL  NEW-YORKER 
1003 
The  Home  Dressmaker 
Midsummer  Styles. — While  this  sen- 
son  is  not  prolific  in  new  modes,  one  can 
see  something  of  approaching  tendencies, 
one  of  which  is  still  another  change  in 
silhouette — a  long  tight  bodice  and  a 
wider  skirt.  We  are  told  that  the  vivid 
colored  shoes  which  have  appeared  every¬ 
where  are  to  go  with  the  first  breath  of 
Autumn,  and  soberer  hues  are  to  take 
their  place.  The  newer  shoes  show  some 
very  soft  mellow  tones  in  brown,  tan 
and  fawn  which,  with  sober  black  are  to 
form  the  best  models. 
Two  Simple  Silk  Dresses. — In  the 
first  illustration  the  figure  at  the  left  is 
an  example  of  the  new  silhouette.  It  was 
a  little  frock  of  changeable  taffeta,  pink 
and  mauve,  trimmed  with  cream  white 
Valenciennes  lace,  and  would  be  very 
pretty  for  the  college  girl’s  party  frock. 
The  rather  long  waist  was  plain  and 
snug-fitting,  with  oval  neck  and  short 
tight  sleeves.  The  neck  and  sleeves  were 
finished  with  two  rows  of  insertion  edged 
with  a  frill.  The  skirt  was  widened  at 
each  side  by  a  gathered  panel,  edged  all 
around  by  the  insertion  and  lace.  In 
front  were  four  horizontal  bands  of  the 
lace  and  insertion,  the  silk  being  cut 
away  behind  the  insertion.  The  girdle 
was  a  roll  of  twisted  silk,  with  a  knot  at 
each  side.  We  have  seen  dresses  made 
after  this  model  of  dotted  swiss,  and  they 
were  very  pretty  and  girlish.  The  hat 
worn  in  the  picture  was  a  wide  mush¬ 
room  shape  of  black  horsehair,  with  a 
colored  wreath. 
Yellow  Crepe  de  Chine. — The  dress 
6hown  at  the  right  was  sulphur  yellow 
crepe  de  chine,  trimmed  with  tangerine. 
It  is  one  of  those  straight  one-piece 
dresses  of  simple  pattern  which  can  be 
varied  in  so  many  different  ways.  In 
this  case  it  was  seamed  right  up  the 
length  of  the  sleeve  and  shoulder,  this 
seam,  the  edge  of  the  sleeve,  and  the 
shoulder  being  bound  with  the  tangerine 
crepe.  Orange  buttons  and  loops  closed 
the  shoulder  seams,  which  were  the  only 
fastenings.  There  were  fine  vertical  tucks 
at  each  side  to  give  fullness  below  the 
shoulder,  and  also  a  group  of  cross  tucks 
in  front.  The  collar,  made  in  two  pieces, 
split  at  the  shoulder,  also  had  a  group  of 
cross  tucks,  and  was  bound  with  tanger¬ 
ine.  At  the  waist,  the  fullness  was  drawn 
in  under  the  arms  by  three  cords  cov¬ 
ered  with  the  tangerine  silk,  which  were 
attached  by  buttons  in  front.  It  will  be 
noted  that  this  is  a  very  simple  model, 
well  suited  to  linen  or  ratine,  as  well  as 
to  silk.  The  colors  described  were  espe¬ 
cially  attractive.  The  poke  hat  worn 
with  it  was  corded  taffeta,  black  and 
orange,  with  black  ribbon  velvet  trim¬ 
ming. 
Knitted  Silk. — In  the  second  picture 
two  of  the  pictures,  those  right  and  left, 
are  of  knitted  silk  or  tricoletjte,  and  both 
are  trimmed  with  crocheted  silk  lace, 
which  is  now  used  quite  freely.  The 
figure  at  the  left  shows  a  tricolette  with 
cross  stripes  of  drop  stitch.  This  .dress 
was  made  perfectly  plain  and  straight 
across  the  top,  the  sleeves  cut  kimono 
fashion,  and  lengthened  by  an  addition 
to  the  width  of  the  goods.  A  band  of  silk 
Irish  crochet  went  across  the  top,  front 
and  back,  and  down  the  sleeves  where 
seamed.  This  made  a  shallow  open  neck, 
fastened  on  the  shoulder  by  crocheted 
buttons  and  loops.  There  were  no  other 
fastenings,  the  dress  being  a  slip-on.  At 
the  waist  two  silk  cords  ran  through  slots 
to  form  a  girdle.  This  dress  was  all 
white,  but  the  idea  is  equally  practical 
for  colors.  The  other  tricolette  dress  at 
the  right  was  one  having  a  drop-stitch  in 
square  blocks.  This  was  also  trimmed 
with  crochet,  having  an  insertion  edged 
with  picot  at  neck  and  edging  sleeves, 
and  also  five  square  blocks  of  crochet  let 
into  the  front  to  form  a  trimming.  We 
liked  this  idea  especially,  and  it  seemed 
worth  considering  for  an  over-blouse.  A 
plain  over-blouse  of  tricolette,  trimmed 
with  silk  crochet,  would  go  very  nicely 
with  the  Fall  jacket  suit. 
.Silk  Jersey. — The  dress  in  the  center 
is  of  cafe  an  lait  brown  silk  jersey, 
smooth  and  fine,  embroidered  with  a 
deeper  color.  It  was  a  perfectly  plain 
blouse  and  skirt,  with  long  sleeves  and 
round  neck.  The  blouse  opened  at  the 
side,  neck  and  opening  being  finished  with 
a  narrow  binding  at  the  edge.  The  em¬ 
broidery  in  darker  shades  of  brown, 
formed  narrow  points.  The  peasant 
sleeves,  gathered  into  a  narrow  embroi¬ 
dered  cuff,  had.  an  ooening  at  the  side, 
trimmed  with  the  pointed  embroidery. 
This  dress  was  a  smart  street  model,  and 
was  displayed  by  a  very  fashionable  shop ; 
it  is  modest  enough  to  please  those  who 
dislike  the  startling  display  of  bare  neck 
and  arms  we  see  so  often. 
Black  and  White. — -Costumes  all  in 
white,  or  combinations  of  black  and  white, 
are  midsummer  favorites.  Nothing  is  so 
cool  and  pretty  as  the,  white  costume  fox- 
sultry  weather,  and  it  is  always  favored 
by  vacationists.  White  hats  are  prettier 
than  usual  this  year,  many  being  of  ci-epe 
combined  with  straw.  Those  of  tailor 
style  ax-e  often  trimmed  with  grosgrain 
ribbon,  sometimes  finely  pleated  in  fan- 
or  cocardes,  while  others  are  trimmed 
with  flowers.  The  short  back  is  the  sea¬ 
son’s  feature  on  most  hats.  Then  there 
are  lovely  overblouses  of  white  crepe  de 
chine,  to  be  worn  with  white  silk  skirts. 
These  white  overblouses  usually  feature 
the  vei-y  short  sleeve,  some  formed  of 
frills  of  Val  lace.  The  black-and-white 
silks,  foulards  and  crepe  foulards,  show 
white  figures  on  black  ground.^  for  street 
weai-,  and  black  figui-es  on  white  gi-ounds 
for  more  ceremonious  occasions.  Widely 
separated  coin  dots  and  closely  printed 
polka  dots,  are  again  in  vogue. 
Navy  blue  never  goes  out  of  style,  and 
we  see  it  now  in  vei-y  attractive  dresses 
of  Geoi-gette  crepe,  tucked  or  pleated. 
The  warm  days  of  July  brought  out  many 
dresses  of  dotted  swiss,  which  still  holds 
favor.  This  ulways  looks  cool,  and  the 
dark  colox-s  with  a  white  dot  are  very 
sei-viceable.  An  elderly  woman  who  does 
not  ordinarily  wear  wash  materials,  ex¬ 
cept  for  house  dresses,  would  find  black 
swiss  with  white  dots  cool,  useful  and 
smart  looking.  All  black  dotted  swiss 
is  desirable  for  a  person  wearing  mourn¬ 
ing.  giving  a  dead  black  with  comfort  and 
coolness.  All  dresses  of  this  class  are 
kept  in  condition  by  regular  pressing.  It 
is  a  mistake  to  let  any  dress  get  stringy 
and  wrinkled,  and  proper  pressing  saves 
washing,  for  many  wash  dresses  that 
have  a  “messy”  look  are  not  really 
soiled1,  only  in  need  of  a  helpful  hot  iron. 
The  “1880  silhouette”  is  shown  in  some 
very  new  costumes;  they  are  rather 
straight-line  dresses  with  a  large  sash 
bow  at  the  back  that  gives  the  sugges¬ 
tion  of  a  bustle. 
New  chenille  hats,  trimmed  with 
chenille  flowers  and  foliage,  are  a  mid¬ 
summer  fashion ;  small  shapes,  in  cloche, 
poke  and  rolled  brim  models,  are  shown 
in  gi-eat  vax-iety.  The  first  we  noted  wex-e 
priced  at  $18.50. 
Silk  capes  in  the  newer  ci-epe  weaves 
are  not  only  fashionable,  but  also  very 
useful  for  wear  over  Summer  dresses. 
Many  of  them  have  collars  trimmed  with 
Summer  fui-s,  such  as  monkey  or  karakul. 
BOYS  AND  GIRLS 
List  of  July  Contributors 
These  are  the  readers  who  answered  the  June 
page  before  this  one  went  to  the  printer.  The 
name  itself  indicates  that  a  letter  was  received 
from  that  boy  or  girl.  Following  each  name  is 
the  age,  whenever  given,  and  a  series  of  alpha¬ 
betical  symbols  referring  to  various  contribu¬ 
tions  according  to  the  following  key: 
b — Words  for  the  box. 
d — A  drawing, 
e — An  essay, 
g — A  game, 
k— A  new  book  puzzle. 
1 — Correct  answer  to  last  book  puzzle, 
m — A  new  nature  puzzle, 
n — Correct  answer  to  last  nature  puzzle. 
o — An  original  poem. 
p — A  photographic  picture. 
r— A  rhyme  for  drawing. 
s — -A  story. 
v — A  memory  verse. 
x — Correct  answer  to  last  riddle. 
z — A  new*  riddle. 
California:  Constance  Palmer  (12,  r). 
Connecticut:  S.  J.  L.  (d),  Vera  Bushnell  (13, 
d,  1,  n.  x),  Elizabeth  Steed  (13,  b,  d,  n,  x), 
Anna  Doublik  (10,  b,  n,  x),  Mike  Soldberg 
(d),  Amy  Rasmussen  (d,  v),  Vivian  Bushnell 
(12,  d,  e,  1,  n,  x),  Charles  Ballard  (0,  d), 
Helen  Wasilesk.v  (10,  n),  Ruth  Bryden  (12, 
k,  1,  x),  Ruth  Ilorwitz  (13,  d),  Edna  Bloomer 
(11,  d),  Albert  Kirk  (14,  d,  1.  n,  x,  z),  Edward 
Gunipreeht  (10.  d,  1,  n.  x),  Edwardd  Rothschild 
(n),  Hazel  Wilcox  (12,  1,  n,  x,  z),  Lucille 
Perry  (12,  b,  k,  m,  n,  x),  Gustave  Anderson 
(1),  Iringard  Wentzel  (e,  m.  n,  x).  Norman 
Hallock.  Susan  LeGendre,  Helen  Ludwig  (11, 
d,  o),  Helen  Upson  (10,  d),  Alice  Rose  (e,  1, 
n,  x,  z). 
Florida:  Nettie  Young  (10.  d,  1,  x). 
Louisiana:  Roberta  Duffy  (15,  d),  Medora 
Davignon  (r,  x),  Eugenie  Davignon  (e). 
Maine:  Alice  Cray  (12),  Dorothy  Smith  (12, 
n),  Alice  Gilman  (9,  d.  z). 
Maryland:  Esther  Wright  (u,  v,  x,  z),  Clara 
Cox  (d,  1,  n,  z). 
Massachusetts:  Mildred  Gilfetlier  (n,  x), 
Myrtis  Dill  (12,  b,  d.  m,  n,  r,  x,  z),  Esther 
Howe  (d,  1,  u,  x),  Amy  Jaques  (12,  d,  x), 
Beatrice  Stevens  (15,  b,  g,  1,  n,  o,  r,  x,  z), 
Julia  Buzzell  (12,  d,  n,  x),  Josephine  Wasko 
(10,  e),  Louise  Divoll  (11.  1,  n,  x,  z),  Barbara 
Knight  (11,  d),  Nellie  Shyloski  (12,  d,  n,  x, 
z),  Lulu  Warner  (1,  x). 
Michigan:  Kathryn  Seaton  (13). 
Missouri:  Hilda  Meyer  (15,  d),  Freddie  Back- 
haus  (10,  d). 
New  Hampshire:  Arlene  Colburn  (13,  d,  x), 
Frances  Tilton  (11,  o),  Lillian  Howard  (10,  z), 
Charlotte  Hoyt  (13,  d),  Earl  Anderson  (10,  b, 
d,  1,  n,  o,  v,  x). 
New  Jersey:  Dorothy  Adams  (13,  k,  1,  n, 
x,  z),  Theresa  Fredericks  (12,  d),  Frederick 
Hunziker  (12,  d),  Mildred  Bullman  (12,  d), 
Laura  Hall  (17,  d,  e,  m,  n,  z),  Gertrude  Ran¬ 
dolph  (12,  1,  n,  v,  x).  May  Wright  (15,  n), 
Rebecca  Levine  (12,  m),  Katherine  Eckert  (14, 
d,  n,  x),  Theresa  Hudson  (11,.  n,  x),  Gladys 
Bloomer  (12,  d,  1,  n,  x),  Lillian  Dietrich  (1, 
x),  Grace  Hockenbur.v  (12,  o,  x),  Wilbur  Brower 
(12,  d,  x),  Edith  Jarks  (9,  d),  Theodore  Har- 
tung  (11,  d),  Amy  Barton  (11,  d,  1,  n,  r,  v, 
x,  z). 
New  York:  Margaret  Parris  (11,  <1,  I,  r,  z), 
Clare  Hickey  (14,  1,  x,  z),  Iva  Sullivan  (1,  n, 
x),  Mildred  Searles  (10),  Allhen  Stevens  (10, 
e,  1,  n,  o,  x),  Alice  Hatfield  (15,  d),  Helen 
Higgins  (11,  x),  Robert  Walters  (12,  d,  1,  n), 
Lewis  Waugerin  (15,  d),  Doris  Waterman  (12, 
l,  n,  x),  Esther  Patterson  (15,  d),  Margaret 
Mackenzie  (11,  n,  x),  Gladys  Feldberg  (12,  b, 
l,  n,  x),  Edna  Carlson  (14,  b,  1,  in,  n,  x), 
Everett  Kilmer  (13,  o),  Alice  Phair  (15,  d), 
Carlotta  Baker  (16,  d,  1),  FYances  Aker  (7,  d), 
Charles  Aker  (n),  Gertrude  Kopaekie  (1,  in, 
n,  x,  z),  Earl  Canfield  (11,  d),  Lillie  Sprague 
(11,  d,  1,  n,  v).  Charles  Rose  (12,  k,  1,  n,  x, 
z),  Janet  Rose  (10,  k,  1,  n,  x),  Gladys  Gorman 
(10,  1,  n,  x),  Elizabeth  Lewis  (8,  d),  Theodore 
Wall  (11,  e),  Clara  Schroeder  (d,  k,  x),  Mar- 
garette  Schroeder  (12,  d),  Donald  Miller  (0, 
n),  Nellie  Carpenter  (11,  n,  x),  Ivah  Miller  (12, 
m,  n,  v,  z),  Zella  Snyder  (13,  e,  1,  n,  x),  Eileen 
Campion  (10,  1),  Almy  Lane  (12,  n,  x),  E. 
Jones  (11,  x),  Miriam  Eggert  (n).  Millard  Sper- 
beck  (13,  m),  Kenneth  Fellows  (13,  n,  x), 
Anna  Fessenden  (1,  n,  x),  Florence  Wessels  (10, 
d,  1,  n),  Ruth  Watts  (16,  d,  1,  n,  x),  Glenda 
Fowler  (12,  d),  Anna  Youmans  (b,  n,  o,  x), 
Dorothy  Denton  (12,  1,  n,  x),  Emily  Emory  (13, 
o>,  Clair  Crandall  (13,  d,  n),  Helen  Curtiss  (14, 
d),  Kathryn  Jantzi  (10,  z),  Kathleen  Breen  (14, 
b,  1,  n,  x),  Blanche  Vodvarka  (12,  b,  n,  o,  xy, 
Verna  Wilkins  (9,  n),  Amy  Rich  (10,  d), 
Dorothy  Rich  (12,  1,  n,  o),  Laura  Chapin  (13, 
n,  z),  Edith  Rethore  (11,  d),  Elsie  Gutheil  (12, 
d),  Pauline  Williams  (14,  d,  1,  x),  Joy  Johnson 
(d,  n,  x),  Thelma  Wilcox  (11,  n,  v,  x,  z),  Verna 
Colvin  (13,  b,  d,  x),  Fred  Carlson  (16,  n,  x), 
Helen  Cameron  (1,  n,  x),  William  Smith  (16, 
d),  Vida  Butterfield  (15,  d,  1),  Stella  Marble 
(12,  d),  Dorothy  Butterfield  (14,  n,  x.  z),  Mary 
Fekite  (n),  Marie  Roberts  (11,  d,  u,  x),  Marian 
Schroeder  (10,  1,  n),  Helen  Clinch  (11,  1,  n, 
p,  x),  Erma  Morgan  (16,  e,  n,  v,  z),  Clara  Rapp 
(13,  b,  d,  x,  z),  Helen  Booth  (e),  Helen  Bar¬ 
rett  (8,  d),  Vivian  Bow'en  (11,  b,  n,  p,  x),  Al- 
frieda  Degoe  (d,  1,  n),  Doi-othy  Story  (15,  n, 
x),  Gladys  Berry  (8,  d),  Roberta  Tice  (8,  d), 
Dorothy  Tice  (10,  v),  Dorothy  Springer  (14,  d), 
Elizabeth  Hoban  (11,  n,  x),  Leora  Webster  (10, 
n,  x),  Ruth  Mead  (e,  1,  n,  x,  z),  Cheyenne 
Burdick  (11,  d),  Vanda  Karpinski  (o),  Dora 
Bennett  (1,  n,  x.  z),  Rowena  Itoblee  (10,  x), 
Olive  Riker  (13,  1,  n,  x),  Florence  Smith  (12, 
1),  Merriman  Harsh  (12,  d).  E.  Redmond  (d), 
Gladys  Redmond  (14,  d),  Barbara  Hovt  (10, 
d,  n),  W.  Gates  (15,  d),  Elizabeth  Phelps  (9, 
d,  n),  Ruth  Bolton  (13,  d,  e),  Ethel  Rowland 
(16.  d). 
Ohio:  Lucille  Smith  (14,  d),  Mary  Brown  (11, 
d),  Esther  Bowman  (13,  1,  n),  Rose  Guelker 
(d). 
Pennsylvania:  Stasia  Mickalavage  (n.  x), 
Miriam  Kachel  (13,  d,  in,  n,  r,  x),  Mabel  Rohrer 
(14,  d,  1,  n.  o),  Frank  Jenkins  (12,  d,  1,  n,  x), 
Eva  Leh  (15,  d),  Eugene  Moyer  (13,  d),  Edna 
Blackman  (12,  b,  n,  x,  z),  Marianne  Paeanowski 
(17,  d,  x). 
Rhode  Island:  Hazel  Bailey  (12,  d,  1,  n,  x), 
Arthur  Noren  (d),  Louise  Judge  (10,  b,  1,  n, 
v,  x). 
Tennessee:  Ruth  Hawkins  (d). 
Vermont:  Evelyn  Thomas  (12,  d,  1,  n),  Eliza¬ 
beth  Thurber  (12,  1),  Eulalie  Powers  (10,  d,  1). 
Virginia:  Catherine  Fox  (9,  1,  n,  x),  Myra 
Stevens  (11,  r),  Irymr  Stevens  (u,  x),  Dorothy 
Odle  (12,  d,  n.  x),  Annie  Caljomv  (15,  d,  x). 
West  Virginia:  Everett  Allender  (11,  b,  e,  n, 
r,  x,  z). 
Canal  Zone:  Ella  Warren  (11). 
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iiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiimiiiiiiiiimiiiiimiiiiimtii 
Is  there  a  single  book  in  the  public 
library  in  your  town  which  gives  an  ac¬ 
curate  picture  of  farm  life  or  an  interest¬ 
ing  story  of  real  farm  people? 
Mauy  city  people  form  their  opinion  of 
farmers  and  farm  life  from  the  books  they 
read.  Therefore,  there  ought  to  be  at 
least  one  good  book  picturing  real  farm 
life,  with  its  mixture  of  bright  and  dark 
sides,  in  every  town  or  grange  library. 
“Hope  Farm  Notes”  is  a  well-printea 
224-page  book,  coutainiug  25  interesting 
stories  of  farm  life  and  country  people. 
Many  consider  it  the  best  book  of  country 
life  which  has  ever  been  published. 
Ask  for  this  book  at  your  library,  and 
if  it  isn’t  thei’e  tell  them  they  ought  to 
have  it.  You  will  enjoy  the  book  your¬ 
self,  and  it  will  give  those  not  familiar 
with  farm  life  a  better  understanding  of 
real  country  people. 
Many  people  are  making  a  present  of 
this  book  to  city  friends  or  to  their  town, 
grange  or  school  library,  and  it  is  always 
considered  a  welcome  aift. 
The  price  is  only  $1.50,  postpaid.  Just 
fill  out  the  coupon  below  and  mail  with 
a  check  or  money  order. 
RURAL  NEW-YORKER, 
333  West  30th  St.,  New  York. 
Gentlemen. — Enclosed  find  $1.50,  for  which 
mall  me  a  cloth-bound  copy  of  Hope  Farm  Notes. 
Ginger  Cookies 
One  cup  sugar,  brown  or  granulated, 
little  salt,  one-half  cup  molasses,  one  cup 
shortening,  one  teaspoon  ginger,  one  tea¬ 
spoon  cinnamon.  Stir  this  together,  then 
take  one  full  teaspoon  soda  in  a  cup,  and 
a  good  one-third  cup  sour  milk.  Stir  and 
pour  on  the  other.  Next  take  one  good 
teaspoon  baking  powder,  sift  through 
some  flour,  then  put  in  enough  flour  to 
mix.  Take  out  on  board  ;  just  get  them 
so  you  can  roll.  Rake  in  a  hot  oven ; 
watch  them.  If  made  in  order  given  they 
are  delicious.  I  make  these  cookies  with 
hot  water,  hot  tea.  or  cold  tea,  in  place 
of  sour  milk.  Try  them.  mrs.  F.  h. 
Name 
Street  or  R.  F.  D . 
Postoffice  . . . . 
State  . . 
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[ 
When  you  write  advertisers  mention 
The  Rural  New-Yorker  and  you’ll  get 
a  quick  reply  and  a  ‘square  deal.”  See 
gua  antee  editorial  page.  :  : 
HEALTHFUL  HOME  HEATING 
With  The  Wortc/erfu  /  NEW  IDE  A  Pipeless  Fu  mace 
Keeps  every  room  delightfully  comfortable  in  the  coldest  weather. 
Burns  little  coal  or  wood.  Is  thoroughly  durable  and  reliable.  Installed 
in  one  day.  No  pipes  in  the  cellar,  will  not  spoil  fruit  and  vegetables. 
Send  for  copy  of  “Warmth  and  Comfort.” 
UTICA  HEATER  COMPANY,  110  Whiteaboro  Street,  UTICA,  N.  Y. 
