Jht  RURAL.  NEW. YORKER 
1099 
The  Home  Dressmaker  - 
Autumn  Is  Coming. — August  is  the 
month  of  special  fur  sales  in  the  city 
shops,  and  great  reductions  are  adver¬ 
tised.  The  prices  seem  high  enough  to  a 
moderate  purse,  even  with  their  Sum¬ 
mer  reductions,  but  many  furs  are  be¬ 
coming  scarces,  and  modern  furs  are 
made  up  very  expensively.  Linings  are 
handsomer  than  ever  'before,  but  all  furs 
are  much  lighter  in  weight  than  formerly, 
while  preserving  their  warmth.  (Stiff¬ 
ness  is  avoided ;  there  is  no  cumbersome 
padding,  and  we  infer  that  thick  pelts, 
such  as  karakul,  are  shaved  thinner,  as 
their  old-time  stiffness  is  gone.  We  are 
told  that  red  fox  is  to  be  in  favor  again  ; 
shades  of  red,  gold,  brown  and  russet  are 
to  be  in  favor  this  Fall,  and  the  red  fox 
is  to  be  used  for  trimming  on  coats  and 
dresses,  as  well  as  for  separate  furs. 
Last  Winter  red  fox  was  rarely  seen, 
while  the  dyed  forms,  such  as  platinum, 
beige,  sand,  etc.,  held  popular  favor.  Some 
traveling  coats  recently  noted  were  soft 
English  fleeces  in  large  plaids  and  stripes, 
with  collars  and  cuffs  of  red  fox,  Japa¬ 
nese  fox,  civet  cat  or  badger.  These  coats 
are  straight  in  outline,  and  quite  gay  in 
colors,  but  there  are  very  attractive 
tweeds  in  dark  tones  with  flecks  of  color, 
or  the  sober  mixtures.  A  coat  of  this 
class,  which  defies  weather,  is  a  neces¬ 
sary  part  of  the  wardrobe. 
A  Child's  Winter  Coat. — In  the  first 
picture,  the  model  at  the  left  shows  a 
child’s  Winter  coat  of  blue  cloth.  It  was 
cut  wide  and  flaring,  and  was  trimmed 
all  around  with  a  band  of  gray  squirrel 
about  an  inch  wide.  It  fastened  invisibly 
down  one  side,  and  the  round  collar 
fastened  at  the  side  also.  The  cuffs 
were  bordered  with  the  fur,  and  there 
was  a  set-in  pocket  with  a  slanting 
opening.  As  will  be  seen,  this  was  a 
very  simple  coat,  quite  within  the  ability 
of  the  home  dressmaker,  but  it  was  very 
smart.  It  was  accompanied  by  a  little 
round  cloth  hat  to  match,  'bordered  with 
fur.  Such  a  coat  could  also  be  trimmed 
with  bands  of  fur  cloth,  which  would  be 
less  expensive  than  real  fur.  Fur  cloth 
is  made  to  imitate  most  of  the  short  furs. 
This  little-  coat  would  be  very  attractive 
in  brown,  with  brown  squirrel  or  beaver 
trimming. 
A  Striped  Silk  Frock. — The  little 
dress  at  the  right  was  blue  and  white 
striped  wash  silk,  trimmed  with  plain 
blue,  but  it  would  be  very  desirable  for 
challie  or  other  light-weight  striped  wool¬ 
en.  The  bands  of  plain  blue  at  neck, 
sleeves  and  hem  were  put  on  with 
feather  stitching.  The  narrow  belt 
slipped  under  three  flat  disks  of  the  blue, 
which  were  embroidered  and  edged  with 
feather  stitch.  Such  a  dress  would  be 
very  pretty  in  dark  blue  serge  with  red 
broadcloth  trimming,  the  feather  stitch 
and  embroidery  in  black.  Dark  blue 
serge  never  goes  out  of  style  for  children 
and  young  girls,  and  as  it  can  be  washed 
it  is  always  practical. 
Irish  Lace  Trimming. — In  the  sec¬ 
ond  picture,  the  figure  at  the  left  shows 
the  use  of  Irish  insertion  in  white  Swiss, 
but  the  same  idea  could  be  carried  out  in 
Fall  and  Winter  materials  with  em¬ 
broidery.  The  square  panel  in  the  front 
is  very  attractive,  also  the  round  yoke  of 
lace,  dropping  over  the  tips  of  the  shoul¬ 
der,  while  the  short  tight  sleeve  cap  was 
a  part  of  the  waist.  The  waist  itself 
had  a  high  round  neck,  coming  up  like 
a  tucker  above  the  lace  yoke.  Note  the 
short  gloves  with  flaring  gauntlets  deco¬ 
rated  with  colored  points;  they  are  more 
fashionable  (perhaps  because  more  un¬ 
reasonable)  for  street  wear  with  short 
sleeves  than  long  gloves.  We  saw  a 
dress  of  brown  crepe  de  chine  trimmed 
with  brown  lace  insertion  in  this  style, 
but  it  would  be  handsome  in  chiffon  vel¬ 
vet  trimmed  with  colored  silk  embroidery. 
We  have  seen  handsome  dress  trimming 
made  by  embroidering'a  strip  of  gold  lace 
with  colored  crewel.  The  metal  lace  was 
quite  tarnished,  having  been  used  as 
trimming  previously,  but  the  pattern  was 
worked  out  in  the  colored  wool,  showing 
glints  of  the  metallic  foundation,  and  the 
trimming  was  very  handsome  and  looked 
expensive. 
Blue  Crepe. — The  model  in  the  center 
is  dark  blue  flat  crepe,  with  vestee  and 
cuffs  of  white  crepe  de  chine.  The  dress 
itself  was  absolutely  plain,  with  loose 
sleeves;  it  was  slipped  on  without  any 
fastenings  except  a  link  button  at  the 
neck.  The  long  square  vestee  had  an 
embroidered  disk  worked  in  black  at  the 
bottom,  and  both  vest  and  cuffs  were 
edged  with  a  little  passementerie  of  black 
silk  loops.  To  be  practical,  such  a  dress 
should  be  so  made  that  the  vestee  and 
cuffs  may  be  removed  for  cleaning,  but 
when  ready-made  the  manufacturer  does 
not  consider  this,  except  in  individual 
models.  It  is  not  difficult  however,  in 
making  a  dress,  to  fit  all  accurately  and 
then  baste  in  the  vestee  and  cuffs,  so 
that  they  are  easily  removed  for  clean¬ 
ing. 
Deep  Flounces. — The  dress  at  the 
right  shows  the  return  of  an  old  fashion, 
though  formerly  worn  in  the  period  of 
pinched-in  waists  and  stiff  corsets,  when 
the  upper  part  was  more  of  the  princess 
shape.  In  this  model  there  is  a  long 
waist  which  looks  like  an  overblouse, 
the  pleated  skirt  being  attached  to  the 
lower  edge.  The  short  sleeves  are 
lengthened  by  a  pleating.  The  waist  is 
printed  crepe  de  chine  in  fawn  and  deep 
blue ;  the  skirt  and  sleeve  pleatings  solid 
blue.  Some  dresses  of  this  style  have 
the  flounce  deeper  in  the  back  than  the 
front,  the  waist  being  shortened.  This 
style  is  often  seen  in  white  crepe  de 
chine.  Except  for  house  and  morning 
wear,  most  white  dresses  this  year  are 
silk  of  some  sort.  The  fine  muslins,  so 
dainty  and  so  easily  laundered,  are  little 
worn,  though  there  are  some  signs  of 
their  return  to  favor.  Some  of  the  fancy 
French  voiles  and  the  heavier  cotton 
fabrics,  such  as  ratine  in  handsome 
weaves  have  been  noted  in  a  variety  of 
models,  but  silk  continues  the  leading 
white  fabric.  Separate  white  skirts  of 
sports  silk  or  satin,  for  wear  with  sweat¬ 
ers,  are  still  extremely  popular. 
Sewing-room  Notes.— The  wearer  of 
a  pongee  dress  is  sometimes  shocked  to 
find  that  when  new  it  spots  easily  in  the 
rain.  A  silk  salesman  tells  us  this  fabric 
should  be  soaked  over  night  in  clear  cold 
water  before  making  up ;  then  dried  and 
ironed.  It  will  never  show  rain  spots 
after  this  shrinking.  Some  Chinese  pon¬ 
gees  are  heavily  dressed  with  rice  flour, 
which  is  removed  by  the  cold  water  hath. 
Straight,  plainly  tailored  skirts  of 
white  alpaca  were  recently  offered  as  a 
novelty.  They  are  light,  cool  and  ser¬ 
viceable. 
Deep  white  bertha  collar  and  cuffs, 
both  with  rounded  corners  are  made  of 
organdie  voile,  pined  all  around  the  edge. 
They  launder  beautifully  and  have  a  very 
pretty  demure  look  as  a  finish  for  a 
plain  silk  dress. 
One  of  the  quaint  little  novelties  to 
wear  with  a  sleeveless  frock  is  an  arm- 
let  of  ribbon  flowers  with  green  or  silver 
foliage,  to  be  worn  above  the  elbow. 
Some  of  these  armlets  have  narrow  rib¬ 
bon  streamers. 
Muslin  frills  have  taken  the  fancy  of 
the  fashion  designers,  and  are  very  at¬ 
tractive  on  a  plain  dark  gown.  A  frill 
of  cream  batiste  with  colored  scallops 
and  dots  is  especially  pretty. 
Coat  frocks  are  appearing  among  those 
for  Fall  wear ;  they  are  somewhat 
straighter  in  the  skirt  than  those  seen 
last  year,  and  have  no  draping.  There 
are  also  some  straight-line  frocks  of  soft 
woolen  plaids,  usually  shades  of  tan  or 
gray  with  black. 
Velvet  hats  are  appearing  plentifully, 
and  it  seems  as  though  they  would  be 
more  popular  this  year  than  for  several 
seasons  past.  They  are  mostly  small 
shapes.  Soft  felts  trimmed  with  gros- 
grain  ribbon  appear  among  the  attrac¬ 
tive  traveling  and  sport  hats. 
^  Black  satin  is  being  featured  in  the 
Fall  styles,  being  revived  by  leading 
French  designers.  The  material  is  made 
up  rather  plainly,  with  lingerie  collar 
and  cuffs  of  fine  muslin  and  lace,  white 
or  cream.  As  sleeves  have  been  absent 
all  Summer,  they  are  now  to  be  revived 
in  full  length,  and  are  to  assume  varied 
forms,  close  fitting,  bishop,  or  even  some 
sort  of  leg  of  mutton  shape.  There  are 
also  some  flowing  sleeves  having  full  un¬ 
dersleeves  of  white  net  or  batiste,  such 
as  were  worn  in  the  days  of  crinolines. 
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