The  RURAL  NEW-YORKER 
1235 
The  Home  Dressmaker 
Preparing  for  Winter.  —  Summer 
fa'brics  are  retiring  before  the  cloths  and 
velvets  and  heavy  silks  now  displayed. 
There  is  nothing  to  suggest  economy  in 
the  fashions  now  appearing,  and  many 
of  the  materials  are  extremely  expensive. 
Serge  and  jersey  cloth  are  about  the 
cheapest  of  wool  materials  and  are  very 
useful  for  simple  dresses  and  for  chil¬ 
dren’s  clothes.  Poiret  twill,  in  grades  of 
varying  price,  is  a  standard  material. 
Duvetyn  still  holds  favor,  and  we  have 
seen  a  good  quality,  36  in.  wide,  for  $2.85 
a  yard.  Velvet  is  to  be  extremely  fash¬ 
ionable.  It  is  never  inexpensive.  We 
saw  a  fine  quality  of  chiffon  dress  velvet 
recently  for  $5.25  a  yard.  Charmeen,  a 
fine  twill  with  a  sheen  like  broadcloth, 
in  one  of  the  new  fabrics,  running  around 
$6.50  a  yard.  Traversine,  which  is  a 
soft  twill  with  a  dull  finish, _  was  seen  at 
$7.50  a  yard.  Satin  crepe  is  among  the 
most  popular  silks,  while  Russian  crepe, 
a  heavy  silk  with  a  pebbled  surface,  is 
another  handsome  material.  These  heavy 
silks  were  seen  for  about  $4.50  a  yard. 
It  is  likely  that  silk  prices  will  be  affected 
by  the  disaster  in  Japan,  as  the  stock  of 
the  raw  material  is  interrupted  for  a 
time.  Wool  crepe  is  very  popular,  and 
attractive  for  dresses^  wh,ile  used  in 
pleated  skirts. 
'The  Return  of  Frills— Long  sleeves, 
high  necks  and  lingerie  frills  are  marked 
features  of  the  Fall  models.  In  the  first 
picture,  the  figure  at  the  left  shows  black 
crepe-backed  satin  trimmed  with  frills 
of  cream  batiste  embroidered  at  the  edge. 
These  frills  fell  in  tiers  all  down  the 
right  side,  forming  a  jabot  from  neck  to 
hem.  The  frills  at  the  side  of  the  waist 
were  not  as  deep  as  those  on  the  skirt. 
The  bell-  sleeves,  slashed  at  the  back, 
were  modeled  after  those  of  the  crinoline 
period,  having  a  lingerie  frill  falling  over 
a  full  batiste  undersleeve  finished  with 
a  frill  at  the  wrist.  This  dress  was  very 
simple,  but  exceedingly  becoming  and  the 
lingerie  trimmings  could  be  adapted  lo 
any  simple  pattern. 
The  Cavalier  Mode.  —  The  gown 
rbo,vn  at  the  right  displays  the  influence 
oi  the  cavalier  period  in  its  waist 
modeled  after  a  seventeenth  century 
doublet,  with  a  straight  row  of  buttons 
down  the  front.  This  dress  was  dark 
brown  Russian  crepe,  with  a  pleated 
skirt.  There  was  no  trimming  except 
the  buttons,  and  the  deep  cavalier  collar 
and  cuffs  of  cream  batiste  and  lace.  Such 
a  dress  is  often  finished  with  a  short 
pleated  cape  of  the  same  material.  This 
style  appears  in  a  variety  of  forms,  and 
we  also  see  dresses  with  a  row  of  .but¬ 
tons  all  down  the  front.  The  lingerie 
collar  and  cuffs  are  a  prominent  feature 
this  Fall,  and  we  see  them  used  with 
cloth,  silk  and  velvet.  The  popular  black 
satin  is  often  seen  with  fine  white  collar 
and  cuffs  as  the  only  trimming. 
An  Embroidered  Overblouse.  —  In 
the  second  picture  the  figure  at  the  left 
shows  a  blue  twill  skirt  with  an  embroi¬ 
dered  ovehblouse,  the  embroidery,  in 
black  and  white,  formed  of  small  designs. 
This  was  the  familiar  machine  embroid¬ 
ery  so  much  used  in  this  way.  The 
blouse  was  given  a  touch  of  novelty  by 
a  short  vestee  and  straight  high  military 
collar  of  the  plain  blue,  the  collar  extend¬ 
ing  to  form  straight  shoulder  straps.  Lit¬ 
tle  pockets  finished  with  the  plain  twill, 
and  turnback  cuffs  of  the  same,  were  all 
the  trimming.  A  cape  of  the  dark  blue 
twill  finished  the  suit.  We  see  such 
dresses  with  the  overblouse  of  brocaded 
or  figured  material,  or  of  velvet  with  a 
cloth  skirt,  and  a  separate  overblouse  is 
very  useful  to  the  home  dressmaker  who 
must  do  some  making  over. 
A  Jacquette  Suit. — The  smart  little 
suit  in  the  center  is  reindeer  twill  with 
trimming  of  a  darker  brown.  The  skirt 
had  folds  of  the  brown  set  in  so  that  they 
looked  like  vertical  tucks.  The  short, 
close  jacket,  with  close  peplum  seamed  at 
the  waist,  had  collar,  cuffs  and  binding  of 
the  darker  color,  the  collar  being  a  rolled 
shawl  shape.  Buttons  were  covered  with 
the  dark  cloth.  This  style  of  jacket  is 
quite  closely  related  to  an  over-blouse, 
with  its  close  seamed-on  peplum,  and  is 
quite  distinct  from  the  longer  tight-fitting 
coat  that  is  another  favorite  model. 
.  Cloth  and  Velvet. — The  figure  at  the 
right  shows  a  dress  of  cloth  with  velvet 
circular  flounces  that  gives  another  popu¬ 
lar  model.  Tiered  skirts  appear  in  great 
variety ;  in  thin  silks  the  tiers  are  pleated, 
but  in  cloth  or  velvet  they  are  circular. 
In  this  case  the  dress  is  of  brown  duve¬ 
tyn,  with  bateau  neck  and  straight  elbow 
sleeves.  A  narrow  line  of  colored  em¬ 
broidery  edged  the  neck  and  the  Russian 
closing  at  the  side,  also  finished  a  band 
of  velvet  on  the  sleeves,  and  headed  the 
top  of  the  flouncing.  All  the  new  Fall 
dresses  try  to  give  a  tube-like  outline,  and 
it  will  be  noticed  that  these  circular 
flounces  are  set  close,  with  little  flare. 
We  have  seen  some  with  the  circular  tiers 
put  on  spirally,  and  also  with  a  panel  of 
circular  flounces  in  front,  while  the  back 
was  plain.  The  back  cannot  be  too  flat 
for  present  styles. 
Notes  and  Novelties. — Over-blouses 
of  alpaca  are  among  school  and  college 
clothes  displayed  in  one  smart  shop.  In 
navy  blue,  black  and  brown,  some  were 
trimmed,  with  tricolor  ribbon,  and  some 
with  triple  collars  and  cuffs  of  white 
crepe  de  chine,  bound  with  a  color. 
Velvet  hats  lead  all  others  for  early 
Fall.  Black  leads  in  favor,  or  deep  rich 
shades  of  brown,  green  or  gray. 
Very  smart  are  tailored  suits  of  plaid 
for  girls  and  the  younger  women.  These 
are  not  the  richly  colored  Scotch  tartans, 
but  box  cloth  in  cocoa  or  taupe,  with  line 
plaids  in  soft  colors. 
Among  new  overblouses  we  saw  some 
of  crepe  de  chine  with  long  peasant 
sleeves  which  had  a  broad  straight  panel 
down  the  back  and  front  heavily  embroid¬ 
ered  in  colors. 
A  short  soft  feather  of  shaving  brush 
shape,  pointing  downward  from  the  brim, 
is  a  new  trimming  on  small  hats. 
The  new  “bob”  in  hairdressing  comes 
from  France,  and  is  shingled  at  the  back, 
while  longer  and  curved  forward  at  the 
sides.  The  new  modes,  however,  call  for 
smooth,  shining  hair,  coiled  or  banded. 
Sports  flannels,  which  come  in  solid 
colors  as  well  as  stripes,  are  considered 
very  smart  for  girls’  school  frocks  and 
small  boys’  suits.  We  saw  very  attrac¬ 
tive  colors  and  stripes,  31  in.  wide,  for 
$1.65  a  yard. 
Some  attractive  satin  dresses  are  trim¬ 
med  with  (lutings  of  ribbon  down  side  of 
skirt,  on  hem  and  sleeves.  Deep  bib  col¬ 
lars  of  fine  batiste  and  lace  are  frequently 
used  to  trim  such  dresses. 
Circular  skirts  with  a  wide  flare  in 
plaids  and  stripes  are  among  the  Fall 
models  for  sport  wear. 
The  new  trimmings  are  extremely  bril¬ 
liant  and  sparkling.  Jet  and  cut  steel 
are  very  popular,  also  metallic  lace  and 
Three  Autumn  Costumes 
cloth.  There  is  a  great  deal  of  handsome 
cut  steel  jewelry ;  earrings,  pendants, 
sautoirs  and  bracelets.  Real  cut  steel  is 
always  expensive. 
The  Pleiades 
What  is  the  significance  of  the  phrase 
in  Job,  Chapter  38,  verse  31,  “Canst 
thou  bind  the  sweet  influences  of  the 
Pleiades”?  Will  you  give  me  the  names 
of  the  seven  stars  of  the  Pleiades? 
Sooke,  B.  C.  j.  m.  n. 
The  Pleiades,  in  classical  mythology, 
were  seven  daughters  of  Atlas  and 
Pleione.  Their  names,  Alcyone,  Electra, 
Merope,  Maia,  Taygete,  Calaeno  and  As- 
terope,  with  those  of  their  parents,  were 
given  to  the  nine  brightest  stars  of  the 
group  in  Taurus.  As  these  stars  rose  in 
May,  and  set  in  October,  they  marked 
the  season  of  navigation  for  ancient  sea¬ 
men.  It  is  quite  possible  that  the  poetic 
reference  to  the  “sweet  influences  of  the 
Pleiades”  referred  to  the  balmy  weather 
of  the  period  associated  with  their  ap¬ 
pearance.  The  group  Taurus  includes 
the  Hyades  and  Pleiades  as  well  as  the 
great  star  Aldebaran,  which  is  pale  red, 
and  extraordinarily  brilliant. 
The  Range  that  Fits  the  Weather 
Bums  Kerosene  Oil  and  Wood  or  Coal 
Every  rural  home  needs  an  Oil  Duplex-Alcazar  Range. 
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