1346 
Tht  RURAL  NEW. YORKER 
October  27,  1923 
The  Home  Dressmaker 
Velvet  and  Fur. — We  see  no  promise, 
at  present,  of  anything  that  would  en¬ 
courage  economy  in  women’s  dress.  Win¬ 
ter  always  brings  out  expensive  fabrics, 
and  this  season  we  see  many  rich  deep- 
piled  materials  for  outer  garments,  while 
velvet  is  taking  a  prominent  place  among 
dress  goods.  Fur  coats  appeared  early 
in  the  short  jacquette  models,  while  long 
coats  in  soft  fleecy  woolens,  solid  colors, 
plaids  and  stripes,  are  finished  with  large 
fur  collars.  The  advance  displays  of 
Winter  coats  show  deep  collars  and  cuffs 
of  fur,  which  necessitate  high  prices,  for 
furs  are  not  cheap,  though  seemingly 
about  the  same  as  last  Winter.  Fox, 
which  is  always  becoming,  is  again  a 
favorite  fur  for  neckpieces.  It  is  very 
attractively  dyed.  We  noted  some  attrac¬ 
tive  fox  scarfs  in  golden  brown,  walnut, 
shadow  and  black  priced  at  $32.50,  $55 
and  $05,  while  dyed  white  fox  in  beige, 
blue  and  platinum  was  $72.50  and  $85. 
One  very  famous  shop  offers  natural  blue 
fox  neckpieces  from  $190  up.  Fox  is  a 
particularly  becoming  fur,  by  reason  of 
its  soft  fluffiness,  and  in  the  lighter  shades 
is  especially  youthful.  Many  of  the  coats 
of  shadow  plaids  or  mixtures  have  collars 
of  Australian  opossum  or  raccoon.  Gray 
wolf  is  shown  on  some  of  the  coats  of 
soft  pile  fabrics,  the  collar  and  cuffs  being 
deep  and  luxurious.  The  mildness  of  the 
prolonged  Fall  weather  has  not  prevented 
the  appearance  of  heavy  wraps  and  furs, 
but  is  not  encouraging  to  the  sellers  of 
AVinter  goods. 
A  Suggestion  in  Trimming. — In  the 
first  picture,  the  figure  at  the  left  shows 
a  suit  effectively  trimmed  with  simple 
but  attractive  wool  embroidery,  and  the 
same  idea  may  well  be  adapted  to  the 
trimming  of  a  dress.  This  suit,  consist¬ 
ing  of  a  plain,  rather  narrow  skirt  and 
open  box  coat  was  of  a  knitted  fabric 
having  rather  a  coarse  rib,  the  color 
being  a  soft  tan.  The  edges  of  coat, 
sleeves  and  skirt  Were  finished  'with 
loops  of  heavy  dark  brown  wool.  These 
loops  looked  as  though  done  over  and 
over,  upon  a  foundation  about  the  thick¬ 
ness  of  a  lead  pencil,  which  was  then 
withdrawn,  leaving  the  loose  loop.  One 
row  of  loops  finished  the  edge  of  the  coat, 
and  two  rows  the  sleeves  and  skirt.  The 
standing  military  collar  was  covered  with 
these  wool  loops.  The  coat  was  further 
trimmed  with  two  pockets,  which  were 
covered  with  showy  wool  embroidery  of 
fruit,  flowers  and  foliage  in  brilliant  col¬ 
ors  on  a  foundation  worked  in  brown.  The 
costume  was  completed  by  a  little  tucked 
hat  of  the  same  material  as  the  suit,  with 
a  brim  formed  of  the  same  style  of  em¬ 
broidery  as  that  on  the  pockets.  The 
blouse  worn  with  it  was  sand-colored  crepe 
de  chine.  This  was  an  exceptionally 
pretty^  dress,  and  it  gave  ideas  for  effec¬ 
tive  trimming  at  moderate  expense. 
Peasant  Embroidery. — The  figure  at 
the  right  shows  a  model  suitable  for  the 
growing  girl  or  her  older  sister ;  it  was 
a  peasant  dress  of  dark  blue  twill  em¬ 
broidered  in  bright-colored  cross-stitch. 
It  is  a  slip-on  dress  with  an  adjustable 
belt,  the  only  fastenings  being  at  the  neck 
opening,  where  they  are  invisible.  The 
waist  is  a  kimono  style  with  full  peasant 
sleeves,  having  a  band  of  embroidery 
where  attached  to  the  waist,  and  a  nar¬ 
row  embroidered  cuff  at  the  wrist.  A 
little  pocket  finished  with  embroidery,  and 
a  narrow  upstanding  band  of  embroidery 
at  the  neck,  and  outlining  the  front  open¬ 
ing.  finished  the  waist.  The  gathered 
skirt  is  finished  with  a  deep  border  of 
cross-stitch,  and  there  is  a  rather  wide 
belt  of  cross-stitch,  fastened  invisibly  at 
one  side.  All  the  prophets  of  fashion  tell 
us  that  a  real  waist  line  is  coming  in 
style  again,  and  this  dress  suggests  it.  A 
great  deal  of  embroidery  is  seen  upon  all 
sorts  of  garments,  in  part  due,  no  doubt, 
to  the  many  skilled  needlewomen  from 
Russia  and  Eastern  Europe  who  are 
refugees  from  their  own  lands,  and  who 
must  now  turn  their  skill  to  industrial 
use.  The  hat  worn  by  this  figure  is  a 
semi  poke  shape  of  shirred  silk. 
A  Three-piece  Dress. — Even  the  little 
girls  now  follow  their  elders  in  wearing 
the  three-piece  dress ;  that  is,  a  skirt  and 
waist  with  a  jacket  to  match.  The  little 
girl  at  the  left  wears  a  straight  dress 
of  bright  deep  Chinese  blue  wool  crepe, 
the  dress  being  one  of  the  straight  kimono 
models  with  a  narrow  belt  around  the 
back.  In  front,  is  an  applied  trimming 
of  yellow  cloth — a  band  cut  at  right 
angles  so  that  it  extends  down  the  left 
front  to  the  waist,  across  the  waist  line, 
and  down  the  right  side  of  the  skirt.  This 
yellow  applique  is  embroidered  in  black, 
the  material  being  the  fine  ribbon  that  is 
sold  for  ribbon  embroidery,  the  design 
a  very  simple  geometrical  pattern.  This 
little  dress  was  closed  at  the  left  side, 
above  the  embroidery  being  a  group  of 
.ittle  yellow  buttons,  the  remainder  of 
the  closing  being  invisible,  under  the  em¬ 
broidery.  Neck  and  sleeves  were  bound 
with  yellow.  This  dress  was  accom¬ 
panied  by  a  box  coat  of  the  same  ma¬ 
terial,  with  collar  and  cuffs  of  yellow 
cloth  embroidered  in  black  ribbon,  and 
the  hat  was  a  little  beret  of  blue  cloth 
with  a  band  of  yellow  embroidered  in 
black.  This  made  a  smart  suit  which 
any  little  girl  would  enjoy,  and  it  is 
not  beyond  the  skill  of  the  home  dress¬ 
maker.  If  desired,  fancy  braid  could  be 
used  instead  of  the  embroidery,  and  it 
is  also  possible  to  get  a  very  good  effect 
by  using  rows  of  braid  on  a  contrasting 
color,  with  faggoting  stitches  of  silk  be¬ 
tween. 
Black  ArELVET. — The  little  frock  in  the 
center  was  as  plain  in  cut  as  a  night¬ 
gown,  being  merely  two  pieces,  cut  ki¬ 
mono  fashion,  with  seam  down  the 
shoulders,  joining  the  sleeves,  and  side 
seams  down  under  the  arms.  The  skirt 
part  was  quite  straight  and  narrow.  This 
dress  was  black  velveteen,  and  all  these 
seams,  and  the  edges  of  the  sleeves,  were 
worked  in  buttonhole  stitch  in  points,  the 
material  being  bright  emerald  green  wool. 
In  front  was  a  deep  oval  outlined  in  green 
wool,  and  within  this  a  quaint  embroid¬ 
ery  pattern  with  flowers  and  leaves  of 
white  kid  appliqued  with  black  silk  and 
green  wool.  This  trimming  had  a  very 
French  air,  and  was  very  smart  and  pic¬ 
turesque,  but  not  at  all  difficult  to  copy. 
Such  a  dress  would  be  pretty  in  velours 
or  duvetyn. 
A  Velvet  Suit. — The  figure  at  the 
right  shows  black  velvet  combined  with 
light  blue  cloth.  The  upper  part  of  the 
dress  is  the  light  blue,  the  velvet  skirt 
being  attached  in  curves  at  the  top.  a 
curve  at  back  and  front,  and  another 
under  each  arm.  Over  these  curves  is  a 
band  of  the  blue  cloth,  having  narrow 
tabs  above  and  below  between  the  curves 
of  the  skirt.  This  tabbed  band,  appliqued 
in  place,  is  embroidered  in  a  simple  de¬ 
sign  with  heavy  black  silk.  A  full  length 
box  coat  of  the  velvet,  having  a  high  col¬ 
lar,  was  trimmed  all  around  with  a  band 
of  the  blue  cloth  embroidered  in  black.  A 
quaint  little  cocked  hat  with  a  high  soft 
crown  was  of  velvet  to  match,  the  brim 
edged  with  a  similar  band  of  the  blue  cloth 
embroidered  in  black.  Children’s  clothes 
never  seemed  prettier  than  now,  and  their 
beauty  comes  very  largely  from  their 
simplicity  of  outline,  and  just  the  right 
combination  of  color. 
Notes  and  Novelties. — If  you  are  the 
fortunate  possessor  of  old-fashioned  gar¬ 
net  jewelry,  this  is  the  time  to  bring  it 
out.  It  is  offered  in  the  shops  as  the 
newest  fashion,  and  prices  are  quite 
startling,  even  for  modest  pieces.  The 
style  of  setting  is  quite  similar  to  the  old- 
fashioned  jewelry,  and  we  see  brooches, 
earrings,  pendants,  bracelets  and  sautoirs. 
Another  style  of  ornament  now  in  fash- 
Tliree  Attractive  Juvenile  Models 
ion  is  made  of  tropical  butterflies  set  be¬ 
tween  crystal — sometimes  the  whole  in¬ 
sect,  and  sometimes  the  brilliant  wings 
arranged  in  a  pattern.  Tortoiseshell 
jewelry  is  one  of  the  new  French  fash¬ 
ions  and  we  see  some  attractive  imita¬ 
tions  having  the  clear  brown  and  gold 
tones  of  the  original  shell.  They  are  not 
cheap,  however ;  a  string  of  graduated 
round  beads,.  34  inches,  long,  which  was 
a  beautiful  imitation  of  real  shell,  was 
priced  at  $15. 
An  attractive  costume  for  AVinter 
sports  consisted  of  a  box  coat  of  shaggy 
buffalo  cloth,  warmly  interlined,  and  a 
wrap-around  skirt  of  Scotch  tartan.  Such 
coats  are  made  in  mouse  color,  beaver 
and  tan,  and  are  suitable  for  wear  with 
any  separate  skirt. 
Plaid  dresses  for  young  girls  are  made 
in  a  very  straight  plain  style,  with  long 
tight  sleeves,  and  no  trimming  except 
buttons,  or  a  simple  collar. 
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la  there  a  single  book  in  the  public 
library  in  your  town  which  gives  an  ac¬ 
curate  picture  of  farm  life  or  an  interest¬ 
ing  story  of  real  farm  people? 
Many  city  people  form  their  opinion  of 
farmers  and  farm  life  from  the  books  they 
read.  Therefore,  there  ought  to  be  at 
least  one  good  book  picturing  real  farm 
life,  with  its  mixture  of  bright  and  dark 
sides,  in  every  town  or  grange  library. 
“Hope  Farm  Notes”  is  a  well-printcn 
224-page  book,  containing  25  interesting 
stories  of  farm  life  and  country  peop.c. 
Many  consider  it  the  best  book  of  country 
life  which  has  ever  been  published. 
Ask  for  this  book  at  your  library,  and 
if  it  isn’t  there  tell  them  they  ought  to 
have  it.  You  will  enjoy  the  book  your¬ 
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real  country  people. 
Many  people  are  making  a  present  of 
this  book  to  city  friends  or  to  their  town, 
grange  or  school  library,  and  it  is  always 
considered  a  welcome  gift. 
The  price  is  only  $1.50,  postpaid.  Just 
fill  out  the  coupon  below  and  mail  with 
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RURAL  NEW-YORKER, 
333  West  30th  St.,  New  York, 
Gentlemen. — Enclosed  6nd  $1.50,  for  which 
mall  me  a  cloth-bound  copy  of  Hope  Farm  Notes. 
Name 
Street  or  R.  F.  D 
I’ostofflce 
State  ... 
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A  complete  record. 
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ROOk  The  Rural  New-Yorker 
^  ^  ^  ^  333  West  30th  Street,  New  York 
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