SHINER CACTUS NURSERY 
GRAFTING 
There are many different reasons for the grafting of one species 
of cactus upon a different species but it is generally done to produce 
a stronger and more rapid growth and an increased flower production 
in the grafted species. The operation is simple and if done with ac¬ 
curacy, rapidity and cleanliness is almost uniformly successful. A 
very sharp, thin-bladed knife, a few cactus spines and some small 
rubber bands are the only implements needed. 
The host plant is called the stock and the plant grafted into it 
is called the scion. The main requirement for success is to get-and to 
maintain-for a week or two an exact approximation between the fresh¬ 
ly cut surfaces of stock and scion so that they unite exactly as do the 
edges of a cleancut flesh-wound when properly sutured. In grafting 
one of the globular cacti on a cylindrical species, such as Trichocereus 
spachianus or Acanthocereus pentagonus, select a stock of approxi¬ 
mately the same diameter as the scion and cut it squarely across at 
right angles to the line of growth with one sweep of the knife. Cut 
off the base of the scion in the same manner and place the two cut 
surfaces together immediately and skewer the scion to the stock 
securely with two or three long slender spines. Pass the rubber band 
around the base of the stock bringing one end through the other, draw 
tight and bring the resulting loop up over the top of the scion so that 
it holds the scion tightly against the stock. Two or more bands may 
be used if necessary to an exact and firm approximation. Most stocks 
have sufficient spines to hold the lower loop from slipping upward 
and the spines, ribs, nipples or irregularities on the upper surface of 
the scion are enough to prevent the upper loop from slipping off. I 
prefer the rubber bands to twine as their elasticity keeps up a steady 
pressure wh le the twine may sti’etch, also the contraction of the rub¬ 
ber compensates for the slight shrinkage of the two cut surfaces and 
holds them together steadily and continually. In this type of grafting 
I have not found it necessary to protect the top of the scion with a 
pad of cork or paper. 
Other forms of grafting are the “stab graft”, the ‘‘saddle graft” 
and the “wedge graft”. The stab graft is used in grafting one of 
the thicker cacti upon a slender and more or less woody stock such 
as Pereskia pereskia the diameter of the scion being double or more 
that of the stock. In this case the tip of the stock is shaved down on 
either side into a thin slender wedge and forced into the scion until 
the cut surface is completely buried. In scions with a thick and hard 
outer surface it is better to make a slight incision to facilitate the 
entrance of the wedge. One spine through scion and stock is suffi¬ 
cient to hold this graft. 
In case the scion and stock are of about the same diameter 
the saddle graft may be used. This is very similar to the stab graft 
but with a wedge corresponding to the wedge on the stock cut out of 
the end of scion. One spine through scion and stock is required and 
the base of the scion should be firmly bound with a rubber band 
both above and below the spine. 
The wedge graft is the reverse of the saddle graft, the end of 
the scion is given the wedge shape and inserted into a corresponding 
cut in the stock, the rubber band being placed around the upper end 
of the stock. In grafting some of the very thin species, Epiphyllums 
Zygocactus, Schlumbergeras etc., it may not be necessary to do more 
than make a straight cut in the stock but the scion should always be 
shaved down to a fine edge. 
A very satisfactory variation of the wedge graft requires a spe¬ 
cial knife made somewhat like the old fashioned apple-corer but tap¬ 
ering to a slender point. With this knife a slender cone is cut from 
the top of the stock ,the scion sharpened like a lead pencil, inserted 
and held by a spine. This is a very satisfactory method to use in 
grafting Wilcoxias, Rhipsalis and other very slender species. No wax 
is needed in cactus grafting but for some time I have practiced sprinkl¬ 
ing Semesan saturated sand over all exposed cut surfaces and believe 
it has a very marked effect in prevention of rot. 
Do not allow water to come in contact with fresh grafts and keep 
them in the shade for the first week. The rubber bands may be re¬ 
moved in from four to seven days but unless they show evidence of 
being too tight and strangling the plant it will do no harm to leave 
them longer. 
Almost any cactus will “take” if grafted on a species of its own 
genus or of a genus fui’ther back in the evolutionary chain. Most 
species take well on Pereskias, Epiphyllums thrive wonderfully on No- 
paleas and the rank growing Opuntias. Trichocereus spachianus and 
Nyctocereus serpentinus are excellent stock for Echinocerei, Echin- 
opses, Coryphanthas and Neomammillarias. Wilcoxias and Peniocereus 
greggii grow rapidly on Harrisia martini. The most satisfactory stock 
that I have found for all purposes is Acanthocereus pentagonus. 
W. E. LOWRY, SR., M. D. 
