FORCING GLADIOLUS 
The many requests we receive for information of various kinds on “forcing” 
gladiolus has prompted us to offer it in our catalog. We have for many years, 
supplied bulbs for (greenhouse growing) forcing—this has been a very large part 
of our business and we have enjoyed healthy progress. This progress is due al¬ 
most entirely we believe to the quality of stock we send out and the varieties we 
recommend for forcing. Our quality has been grown, dug and cured, using the 
most scientific equipment, methods and operations that only years of study and 
experience will produce. Our experience in producing excellent stock for forcing 
has been materially aided by the fact that we ourselves grow glads under glass. In 
the Spring of 1935 we grew over 225,000 for cut-flowers—this does not include our 
large number of varieties planted in trial beds. Of equal importance to the quality 
of stock, is the selection of varieties for forcing. One trial is not sufficient proof 
of a variety being a consistent producer of good flowers nor is a variety good be¬ 
cause it is new, nor are all old varieties undesirable. It is therefor with confidence 
that we offer our suggestions and recommendations as being particularly helpful 
to those forcing Gladiolus. 
CULTURAL DIRECTIONS—SOIL, FERTILIZERS AND PLANTING 
Our first plantings (in Northern Ohio) are made January 20. We plant from 
then up to February 20, which will carry our blooming period into early July; at 
this time the first of the outside stock should be ready, then, too, this is an oppor¬ 
tune season to prepare benches for your other crops. We have not met with much 
success planting earlier than this. 
January and February are as a rule rather cloudy and even our Jan. 20 plant¬ 
ing was materially slowed up this past season because of the scaricty of sun light. 
The sun light in my opinion is a necessity; so beware of even partial shade 
from trees, sheds or walls. 
Real success is much more certain of attainment when the previous crop has 
been completely removed and the soil thoroughly worked. If soil is good, the ad¬ 
dition of fertilizer is not necessary, however, it is desirable to have the soil of a 
slightly acid test. This may be attained easily by the addition of sulphur phos¬ 
phate. Add about 1 lb. to the square yard, assuming that your soil is of the proper 
depth, which incidentally it should be. Average soil depending upon its fertility 
can stand about 2 lbs. of super phosphate, or about 2 lbs. of bone meal or 2-12-6 
fertilizers, where the soil is in need of it. NOTE: Do not use nitrate or any fer¬ 
tilizer that contains nitrate on good soil, and not over2% on average soil. 
Gladiolus do not want an over-rich soil. 
In planting, the bulbs should be spaced not closer than 6x6, that is rows 6" 
apart and 6" in the row; many failures come from crowding the planting. The 
bulbs should be covered with not less than 2" of dirt; the spike of bloom comes 
through the new bulb; it in turn is formed on top of the old one, and has a 
larger spreading root system, hence depth is required. 
Gladiolus will need strings or wire. If your previous crop was wired leave 
them, if convenient, as they will do. If new is used have it about 24" high. This 
will facilitate the cutting. Frequent cultivation is very important; the soil then 
keeps in perfect condition. Frequent watering is also important. Soil should never 
be permitted to become dry or to show the signs of poor drainage and ventilation. 
A temperature of 50° F. should be kept for at least two weeks after planting. 
This permits of the much required root growth before the spike starts. It is en¬ 
tirely possible to grow six or more inches of top without root development, but it 
is most undesirable if you want good flowers. The temperature after the first two 
weeks should be raised gradually to 65° F. Too much heat and more especially at 
the outset will produce tall, spindly, weak plants. 
If maximum results in flower size are desirable and profitable, an application 
of liquid nitrate when watering will be very helpful. It should be done when the 
spike is well formed or about ready to show color. In using nitrate at this time 
your spike will not be inclined to go spindly or weak and the flower will be fed 
just when it needs it. The weak spike always produces poor and weak flowers 
and only a few buds to a spike. 
I have stated that the best results are obtained by removing entirely the old 
crop before planting gladiolus. However, it frequently happens that the old crop 
is not quite through and it is time to plant the gladiolus; we have had very de¬ 
sirable results planting between rows of snapdragons, carnations, etc., spacing the 
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