LOCATION DESIRABLE —Half shady location is prefer¬ 
able, especially when the plants are young; free bloom¬ 
ing cannot be expected in a place entirely shady. 
ROOT SYSTEM, TRANSPLANT! NG— Root system of 
the Camellia is rather coarse and not quite so easily 
transplanted as the Azalea. For this reason, we recom¬ 
mend strongly potted plants especially for lining out, 
as set back would be reduced to a minimum. More¬ 
over, a pot plant can be removed almost any time of 
year, while the plant from open ground has to be moved 
in winter or some time when it is in the dormant 
stage. 
FERTILIZATION EFFECTIVE— The Camellia is a gross 
fee-der; it responds well to fertilization. At the time of 
planting, if the soil is not fertile enough, use mixture 
of one-half of garden soil, one-fourth of well rotted cow 
manure and one-fourth of peat or leaf mold. Every 
winter or early spring apply well rotted cow manure; 
bone meal or cotton seed meal, or similar commercial 
fertilizer may be added if necessary. Mulching with 
half-rotten leaves or peat is also beneficial. 
PROPER WATERING —The Camellia loves a humid at¬ 
mosphere. Do not neglect the watering. Frequent sy¬ 
ringing on the leaves helps a great deal, especially at 
hot, dry summer months. 
PRUNING RIGHT —Proper pruning is also essential. 
P^une with care such as water shoots, dead or injured 
branches and branches growing too close together. Gen¬ 
eral pruning should be done in the month of February, 
otherwise it may have an effect on the flower buds. 
SPRAYING ADVISABLE —Red spider and various scales 
may attack Camellias. We have been using “Volck, Jr.” 
the ratio of 1 to 40 in the summer and 1 to 25 in win¬ 
ter, mixing one teaspoonful of Black Leaf 40 to every 
gallon of solution. Thorough spraying twice in a year 
controls those pests satisfactorily. The strong sun has 
to be avoided immediately after the spray, as it may 
cause the leaves to burn. 
More Advice about Potted Camellias 
Pots of “Standard” size are generally used for Cam¬ 
ellias. Two-fourths of good garden soil, one-fourth of 
well rotted cow manure and one-fourth of leaf mold or 
peat moss may be mixed for the soil of the pot plant. 
A couple of handfuls of bone meal or cotton seed meal 
added to each wheelbarrow of soil will be found beneficial. 
For potting, the usual method is adapted. Should the plant 
be pot grown, never forget to work “shoulders” at the 
top, removing all the earth that can be taken away con¬ 
veniently. Water thoroughly after potting and confine the 
plants in a cool place for a week or ten days, giving them 
air and light gradually. Do not water too often, but water 
the plants so that moisture will be sure to reach the 
bottom of the pot. Frequent syringing is essential. When 
weather is dry, syringe once every day; twice during the 
hot summer months. If the plant shows innutritious con¬ 
dition, you may take it out of the pot and carefully 
study its cause. It may be the result of poor drainage, 
which makes the root rot, or perhaps the effect of" under¬ 
feeding. In the latter case, apply liquid manure from 
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