22 
<A Xfittle HSook lAbout Roses 
the old flower-stems, provided they have not 
been used for cut-flowers, are cut back to 
within one or two eyes from the main branch. 
It must be remembered that this class flowers 
only on wood of the previous season’s growth. 
On most varieties even the old, hard canes, 
provided they are healthy, will produce a 
bountiful crop of flowers year after year. At 
any time, preferably during early summer 
after blooming, some of the old canes may be 
removed entirely if the plant is becoming too 
large or growing out of bounds. In other 
words, prune them for shape and symmetry 
and train them wherever and whichever way 
you want them to be, either on trellises, 
pillars, fences, pergolas, arches, etc. Greater 
profusion of bloom results when the new 
canes are bent or trained in different directions 
instead of being allowed to grow straight up. 
The old Rambler type, like Dorothy 
Perkins and Crimson Rambler, whose small, 
double flowers are borne in clusters, must be 
pruned each year so that the canes that have 
flowered are removed. This allows the new 
strong shoots coming from the base of the 
plant to grow and develop flowering eyes for 
next year’s flowers. 
In pruning Polyanthas, simply remove the 
faded flowers during the summer and prune 
lightly in spring. 
SUMMER PRUNING. At the end of the 
first or main blooming season, which in this 
latitude comes in late June, a medium pruning 
will result in a more bounteous crop of bloom 
later on. Where the flowers were not cut with 
a liberal stem, the latter may now be cut 
back two-thirds or so of their length; this 
allows two or three sets of leaves to remain 
on each strong stem. Do not, however, cut 
all growths back nor prune severely as ad¬ 
vised in the spring. So severe a pruning will 
disturb the balance between top and root and 
will seriously check the growth. We do not 
advise later summer pruning nor fertilizing 
since both will have a tendency to promote 
late growths which will not have time to ripen 
or harden for the winter. 
AUTUMN PRUNING. The question has 
been asked us many times how or what to do 
about pruning before hilling up with soil for 
winter protection. Very little, if any, is 
necessary except to remove some of the tall 
branches on varieties like Radiance, Lady 
Ursula, etc. This may be done roughly and is 
mainly recommended to prevent unnecessary 
evaporation when so much of the plant is ex¬ 
posed to strong winds and sun. 
CULTIVATING AND WATERING. Most 
everyone knows that it is important to keep 
the soil in a Rose-bed loose and aerated. A 
summer mulch of peat moss, tobacco stems, 
grass-clippings, or other clean litter is always 
beneficial. We like to see the peat moss hoed 
and worked into the upper soil-layer. Roses 
do not need to be hoed or cultivated deeply 
so long as the job is done regularly and 
thoroughly. 
Never allow Rose-beds to become dry 
throughout the entire growing season from 
early spring until late fall. We know of many 
instances where Roses are suffering, especially 
during July and August, from lack of water. 
In many cases the gardener imagines his 
problem is one of feeding, whereas all that is 
necessary is a thorough soaking. The theory 
that Rose-gardens must be especially well 
drained has been carried to the extreme in 
this country. It is different in the Pacific 
Northwest and in foreign countries, particu¬ 
larly England, where climate and atmos¬ 
phere are continually moist. Therefore, our 
recommendation is always to water, and water 
plenty, during prolonged dry spells. 
Diseases and Insects 
BLACK-SPOT. There are two main general diseases to which the Rose is subject; viz., 
Black-Spot and Mildew. The former, as its name indicates, appears as a black or brownish 
spot on the foliage. It rarely puts in an appearance until about the close of the first blooming 
season in June. It always appears first on the lowest foliage and works upward. As a result, 
this disease will often practically defoliate the bush. It will not kill the latter but will check 
the growth and bloom for the season and so weaken the plant that it may die back over winter. 
MILDEW. This is shown in a grayish, crinkled appearance of the foliage. Like black-spot, 
it is of a fungous nature, the spores fastening themselves on the bottom of the leaf and spreading 
rapidly unless checked. It is most likely to occur where the air-circulation is defective or 
confined and particularly after cold nights following warm days. 
Treatment of Both. The two diseases may be prevented by the use of the Massey Dust, a 
preparation consisting of nine parts of a very finely prepared sulphur (not flowers of sulphur) 
and one part lead arsenate. This is now manufactured with the addition of a green coloring 
matter to make it inconspicuous on the foliage, to increase its fungicidal value and is sold as 
Pomo-Green, with or without nicotine. With the nicotine sulphate added, it is a complete 
fungicide and insecticide combined. We have used Pomo-Green on our extensive Rose-plantings 
for the past nine years. During this time we have also experimented with many other com¬ 
mercial fungicides, but none have prevented black-spot and mildew so easily as Pomo-Green 
used as a dust. 
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