Schling’s Choice Flower Seeds 
To assist in making selections, our Flower Seeds are grouped under three separate headings: 
1. Annuals. —Flowers which bloom from seed the first season and last but one year. 
2. Hardy Perennials. —Plants which are hardy, and will last for years. 
3. Greenhouse Plants. —Tender plants suitable for pot culture in the greenhouse. 
How to Grow Annual Flowers from Seed 
All annual flowers are easily and most successfully grown from seed. In buying flower seeds it is a matter of 
greatest importance to you to know that the seeds you are getting have been produced from the best plants— 
those bearing the finest flowers. It is only through great care in breeding, constant and most careful reselection, 
that plants and flowers are brought up to and kept at a high standard of perfection. Our seeds are secured only 
from such strains. 
Sowing of Annuals 
All annuals can be sown in the garden in May w T hen the ground is warm, either in a seed-bed or directly in the 
spaces where they are to grow. There are some annuals, such as Poppies, Eschscholtzia, Mignonette, Centaurea, 
and the like, which, on account of lack of fibrous roots, cannot be transplanted without a great set-back to the 
plant. These should be sown, either broadcast or in rows, in the location desired. Most of the annual flowers, 
however, benefit by being transplanted, as it develops for them a better root-system. These are better started in 
a coldframe or a specially prepared seed-bed of rich soil, deeply dug and finely sifted on top. Sow the seed in shal¬ 
low drills or in squares of a convenient size, partitioned off with laths. Most flower seeds are small and can only 
be covered with about J^inch of soil; the very fine seeds are simply pressed into the soil. Water carefully through 
a fine rose so as not to wash the seed out and keep the soil moist constantly. On warm, sunny days some shade 
should be given during midday. When the seedlings are large enough to handle, they can be transplanted 1 inch 
■apart into another seed-bed, or if they are not too close together, they may be left in the original bed until large 
■enough to transplant into permanent places. Always remember that flowers need rich soil, an open sunny situation, 
and sufficient space between plants for proper development. 
Starting Seeds in Hotbeds and Greenhouses 
■Snapdragons, Stocks, Asters, Begonias, Carnations, Celosia, Cosmos, Cobsea, Dahlias, Dianthus, Heliotrope, 
Lobelia, Pansies, Myosotis, Petunias, Phlox, Salpiglossis, Salvia, Vinca, Verbena, if sown outside do not bloom 
until quite late in the summer, but you can have them early if you sow the seed in the hotbed. March is the best 
time to sow, except for Lobelias, Begonias, and Stocks, which can be started as early as February. Sow either directly 
in the hotbed in shallow drills or in pans or boxes. The soil should be light, finely sifted, and well watered before . 
sowing. Scatter seeds evenly, but not too thinly. Even here it is to be remembered that “in union there is strength,” 
for the fine seeds especially, when sown too thin, very often have not the strength singly to break through the soil. 
After sowing press the soil down with a flat board and cover the boxes or pans with newspaper to prevent too 
rapid evaporation. This covering must be removed as soon as the seedlings are up. Always water through a fine 
rose, and only when necessary, with tepid water and as much as possible in the forenoon or midday on bright 
sunny days, for if the soil is too wet over night, the small seedlings will become chilled and damp or rot off. When 
seedlings have four leaves, transplant in similar boxes 1 inch apart or singly into small pots (paper pots are excel¬ 
lent for this purpose). Ventilate more or less according to the weather and gradually harden the plants, preparatory 
to setting them out when all danger of frost is past and the soil is warm. Cultivate frequently; hoe your beds 
nften; and stimulate plant growth by applying a top dressing of a good fertilizer at frequent intervals. This will 
ikeep up a steady, vigorous, healthy growth. Keep seed-pods removed; never allow withered flowers to remain 
-on the plants if you want them to bloom right through the season. We give complete and specific cultural 
directions on each package of our flower seeds. 
Showing how a hotbed is made 
Space at highest part 12 in., lowest 
part 6 in., depth of soil 4 in., depth 
.of manure 2 ft. 
THE HOTBED. March 1 is early enough to start one. Excavate to a 
depth of 2 x /2 feet, fill with 2 feet of fresh horse-manure, to supply heat; tramp 
it down solid. Set your frame on the manure and bank up with soil all around 
the outside to make it air-tight. Inside, place on top of the manure from 4 to 
5 inches of loose, mellow soil. Level it nicely and cover frame with sashes. 
Plunge a thermometer into the soil to test the temperature, which may rise 
above 100 degrees in a few days. When 
it recedes to about 90 degrees the bed 
is ready for seeding. 
THE COLDFRAME. Same direc¬ 
tions as for the hotbed, except for the 
manure, only you cannot start so early, 
as you have no artificial heat; wait 
until the sun gives more warmth. The 
last week of March or April 1 is a safe 
time to start to sow the coldframe. 
Showing how a coldframe is made 
Space at highest part 12 in., space 
at lowest part 6 in., depth of soil 5 in. 
Two-sash Junior Frame. 3 x 6 ft. 
Junior Frames 
Single Sash and Frame. 3 x 3 ft. 
Two Sashes and Frames. 3x6 ft. 
Three Sashes and Frames. 3 x 9 ft. 
Four Sashes and Frames. 3 x 12 ft 
Four-sash Standard Frame. 6 x 12 ft. 
Standard Frames 
Two Sashes and Frames. 6 x 6 ft.$28 50 
Three Sashes and Frames. 6x9 ft. 38 00 
Four Sashes and Frames. 6 x 12 ft. 48 00 
Standard Sashes, 3x6 ft., glazed and painted two 
coats, $6 each, $65 per doz. 
WITHOUT NOTICE 
$10 00 
17 00 
24 00 
30 00 
PRICES SUBJECT TO CHANGE 
Does your soil need lime? Hellige Soil-Tester tells you. See page 103 
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