PUDOR'S, INC., PUYALLUP, WASHINGTON 
7 
SALPIGLOSSIS were judged the most popular annual flower in 
the Horticultural Gardens at the Century of Progress, Chicago, 1934. 
See page 14. 
ORIENTAL POPPIES should only be planted during August; 
the earlier the better. They make an early summer growth; plant¬ 
ing them in the spring means disappointment. We only list them 
in our summer catalog. 
PANSY seed is best planted in the late summer or early fall, pref¬ 
erably in a cold frame where the plants are wintered. This plan 
means big and strong plants by spring that will bloom better and 
more abundantly than the spring sown seed. Having failed to sow 
the seed in the fall, you can, of course, sow it in the spring and have 
a big summer showing. This advice pertains also to— 
VIOLAS, best sown in the late summer, but early spring raised 
seedlings will give you a big show of these lovely plants. If you 
have never grown VIOLAS you are missing something very lovely. 
Make a long border of them or plant three to six clumps in the rock¬ 
ery. We list some of the best and loveliest varieties. 
WALLFLOWERS. How lovely they are if grown to perfection 
and this perfection you can only obtain by having strong, stocky 
plants to set out in the spring and these you can only get by sowing 
the seed in the early summer. Don’t wait too long or you won’t get 
large sized plants by fall. This same rule applies to the handsome 
and showy 
CANTERBURY BELLS. These are biennials, which means they 
have to be renewed every year. A good rule is to sow the seed for 
next year’s plants when your conterbury bells are in bloom. 
ANNUAL LARKSPUR. To have them at their best, which means 
a gorgeous show, sow the seed in October or November WHERE 
YOU WANT THE PLANTS TO BLOOM (as they transplant rather 
badly) and thin them out to 2 feet apart. If you are tender hearted 
and “I just can’t bear to pull out the plants,” you will never have 
a fine showing of annual larkspur and this applies as well to most 
all annuals, particularly to Shirley Poppies which also transplant 
badly; leaving the seedlings as thick as grass where they come up 
and leaving them to struggle along the best they can means only 
disappointment. Will you believe that one single plant of Shirley 
Poppy or California Poppy if spaced a foot from its nearest neighbor, 
will by blooming time occupy the entire vacant space and touch its 
nearest neighbor a foot or more away and covered with as many as 
fifty to a hundred blossoms, where a poor little starved seedling 
struggling along an inch or two from its nearest neighbor will pro¬ 
duce a few mediocre blooms and only live a quarter of its allotted 
time? 
AQUILEGIA (Columbines) as well as FOXGLOVE will not bloom 
the same year from spring sown seed, but DELPHINIUMS will. 
Sown as late as the last of April they will give you quite a decent 
showing during September and October. By the way, contrary to 
some writers in garden magazines who will tell you that you can’t 
sow delphinium seed in the spring and succeed, we assure you that 
you can. Of course, it depends upon your skill and good judgment. 
Some people fail even with one week-old seed that might be 100% 
perfect. 
PHAECELIA CAM PA N U L A RI A. The best, and bluest of all 
blue-flowered annuals. An indefatigable bloomer producing a mar¬ 
velous crop over a long period of big bell-shaped blossoms of a blue 
as pure and dazzling as any gentian. If the twelve-inch tall plants 
are thinned to nine inches apart they will form a solid sheet of 
glorious color throughout the summer, and the seed is so cheap. 
See page 14. 
WARNING! Do not send currency in your letters unless 
registered. We are not liable for your money lost in the mails, 
and certainly can not afford to make up your loss, either in 
money or seeds, or plants. If you must send currency have 
your letter registered, or send money order, or checks, or 
drafts. And don’t forget to sign your name and full address 
to your orders. Every season we receive orders that have no 
name or address attached, often without a return address on 
the envelope and we have no possible way to identify such 
orders and can not fill them, and then people wonder why 
they don’t receive their orders, and blame us for their own 
mistakes. 
NOT A THRILLER BUT A "TRUE STORY" 
That’s what we consider our catalog. Please read it over care¬ 
fully, don’t merely glance at it and then sit down and write us a 
letter or a card, asking us questions most of which are answered in 
our catalog. These inquiries usually come in during our busy 
season and it is almost out of the question to answer them in detail, 
and in most cases we are not inclined to do so, as the nature of 
many of the questions asked, proves to us that the questioner hasn’t 
even taken the trouble to read our catalog. 
OUR SEEDS ARE ABSOLUTELY FRESH; we do not sell old 
seed. If you get only a small germination or none at all, IT IS NOT 
THE SEEDS’ FAULT. May we suggest that you don’t sow all tin 
seeds out of a package at one time. Divide it in three portions and 
sow at three diferent times, each sowing a few days apart; then if 
something went wrong the first sowing (bad weather, rain, ants, 
mice, birds, slugs or careless sowing, too much moisture or too 
little) these things might not occur with the second or third sowing. 
You know, it’s a wise saying, “Don’t put all your eggs in one bas¬ 
ket.” If something happens ALL the eggs are hopelessly destroyed, 
and so might your seed. 
CONTROL MEASURES AGAINST SLUGS IN GARDENS 
Slugs are nocturnal feeders. Control measures against them fall 
into three mam divisions: 
A. Chemical dressings. 
1. _ Copper sulphate or bluestone. When the slugs are active in the 
evening they can be killed by: 
(a) “Watering” them with a 2 per cent to 3 per cent solution of 
copper sulphate. 
(b) By dusting the slugs with finely powdered copper sulphate. 
(c) On a larger scale, by dusting over the ground in the evening 
a mixture of finely-powdered copper sulphate and finely-ground 
Kaimt (one of the potash manures) made by mixing 1 part by 
weight of copper sulphate to 20 parts by weight of Kainit. 
2. Lime and soot: By covering the ground with a mixture of 
soot and finely-powdered lime. (This mixture does not kill, but tends 
to keep the slugs away, and soon loses its effectiveness.) 
3. Naphthalene: By using naphthalene, finely-powdered, at the 
rate of 2 ounces per square yard. This chemical does not kill, but 
has a deterrent effect upon slugs. 
B. Trapping. 
Slugs can be “trapped” by simple means, and disposed of as 
thought fit. The “traps” can be made of small heaps of bran, or 
boiled potato, placed at various intervals, each heap being covered 
by a leaf of cabbage, lettuce, or rhubarb, etc. 
Lettuce leaves alone, or inverted orange skins, also make effi¬ 
cient traps. 
Metal slug traps may be bought, and where slugs abound in large 
numbers are found to be very useful. 
C. Prevention of re-population by slugs. 
All ground should be kept free from weeds, and after the harvest¬ 
ing of any crops, all dead leaves or garden refuse should be removed 
or dug in at once. 
BEST SOIL FOR FLOWER SEEDS 
Our favorite medium is three parts loam, two parts leafmold, and 
one part sharp sand, adding peat for woodland subjects and more 
sand for those not in love with too much moisture. These prepara¬ 
tions should suit almost anything. Fill the pan to within half-an- 
inch of the rim and press the soil very firmly. 
Truro, N. S., Canada, July 22, 1935. 
I had a plant from your Dream seed that was just 3 inches across 
and the stems to the individual pips were 8 inches long for a good 
third up the stem so one could make quite a nice bouquet for a 
small vase. 
I have not heard of any one suggesting the delphinium as a but¬ 
ton hole, but to my mind it is the loveliest buttonhole one can have. 
I see others advertising wonderful delphiniums and I was per¬ 
suaded by a friend to get some seed from a man near you and from 
a lady in Oregon. Seed priced $1 per 100. I sowed them the same 
day I sowed the second halves of your last year seed and I got about 
175 from yours, three from the man’s and 17 from the lady’s, so I 
told my friend that Pudor’s seed is good enough for me. 
Mrs. D. has been round to all the big gardens and growers’ places 
here and says she has seen no delphiniums to come anywhere near 
mine so I told her to get seed from Pudor’s and lent them your 
catalogue. Faithfully yours, A. G. 
Allison Park, Penna., August 4, 1935. 
Gentlemen: The order I received last Spring proved to be 100% 
and just as represented by you. In fact I have been more than 
pleased. The seedling delphiniums and columbines were far beyond 
expectations and all of them bloomed this year and some a second 
time. They were received in very good condition. I planted them 
immediately, a rain storm came up just as I was finishing, it turned 
to sleet and the next morning the temperature was 5 degrees below 
zero. I thought that was the last of my flowers, but every one, 
though frozen off and undergoing such unpleasant weather at the 
start, has grown beautifully. 
I again thank you for the slides, also the very fine beautiful 
strain of flowers which you handle and to know that they are a= 
advertised. It is a pleasure to know that your order will be shipped 
as ordered. Yours truly, MRS. L. A. McK. 
FLOWERS TO GROW IN COOL SHADY POSITIONS 
There are many flowers which succeed well in cool, shady 
or partly shady places, amongst them being Beilis, Catan- 
anche, Cineraria, Maritima, Cynoglossum, Digitalis, Thalic- 
trum, Auchusa, Campanula, Sidalcea, Meconopsis, Baileyi, 
Myosotis, Oenothera, Nemophila, Nicotiana, Polyanthus, 
Aquilegia, Canterbury Bell, Geum, Mimulus, Phlox, Hardy 
Primulas, Trollius, Pansy, Viola, Lupinus, Sweet Rocket, 
Anemone, Saponaria Ocymoides, Verbascum Phoeniceum, 
Coreopsis and Linum. 
PERENNIALS WHICH SUCCEED ON POOR SOIL 
Very often perennials or biennials are needed for positions 
where the soil is “hungry” or poor, and unless one is experi¬ 
enced, the choice of suitable flowers may well constitute a 
somewhat difficult problem. There are, however, several 
which will do quite well, such as Alyssum Saxatile Compact- 
urn, Hollyhock, Gaillardia, Lupinus, Armeria, Valerian, 
Perennial Dianthus, Heuchera, Myosotis, Oriental Poppy, 
Statice Latifolia, Erigeron, Cheiranthus Allioni, Campanula, 
Digitalis, Verbascum, Lychnis, Geum, Achillea, Helianthemum, 
Aubrietia, Iberis Sempervirens, and Portulaca. Naturally, 
with many of these, results will not be so good as when the 
plants are grown on ordinary soil, enriched with manure. The 
point it, however, that they are capable of furnishing a satis¬ 
factory show. 
