VEGETABLE AND FLOWER SEEDS , ETC. 
3 
USEFUL HINTS TO THE AMATEUR. 
Sowing the Seed and Preparing the Soil.—These are very important 
matters and care should be taken to have your seed-bed finely raked, free from all 
rubbish and lumps, and well enriched with well-rotted manure, also not to sow seed 
too early , or in other words, until the soil becomes sufficiently warm and dry , so 
that it will work mellow and crumble to pieces when struck with the spade. Do 
not attempt to raise tine Flowers or good Vegetables on a poor soil; always keep a 
heap of manure on hand for the next season, when it will be thoroughly rotted and 
ready for use. If these points are overlooked, and the seed sown too early, it is apt 
to rot or perish, and consequently involves a loss and sad disappointment on the 
part of the cultivator, aGd it is not the fault of the seeds or seedsman , to whom it is 
unjustly laid a great many times. However, in all cases, follow as nearly as possible 
the directions of each variety, as given in the Catalogue, and you will have marked 
success. 
The Hot-Bed.—Seeds sown in 
hot-beds are very certain of success, if 
the proper care and treatment have been 
exercised in the construction and man¬ 
agement of the bed. The first thing ne¬ 
cessary is to select a sheltered situation 
for your bed, then dig a pit ten or 
twelve inches deep, and about one foot 
wider than the sides and ends of the 
frame to be used ; the next in order is 
the healing material , which should be fresh horse dung from the stable, and should 
be thrown into a conical pile ; when a lively fermentation has taken place, which 
will be indicated by the escape of steam from the pile, it should be again turned 
over and formed into a pile, and let remain so until the second fermentation occurs, 
which will be usually in two or three days. It is now ready to spread in the pit. 
Beat down evenly with the back of the fork, so that it is uniformly of the same 
solidity ; it should be two feet deep. The sash is now placed on the frames and 
kept closed until the heat rises. At this time a thermome'er plunged into the 
heating material should indicate about 100 degrees, but this is too hot for any vege¬ 
table growth ; as soon as the heat has subsided, which it will do in about three 
days, providing the heating material has been properly prepared, and the ther¬ 
mometer indicates 90 degrees, soil should be spread regularly over the surface of 
the bed to the depth of five or six inches and should be good loam . After a couple 
of days the seed may be sown and great care and attention is required to prevent 
the young plants from scorching by the hot rays of the sun. When the sun shines 
very brightly the heat becomes intense, and to prevent scorching the plants, air 
must be freely admitted, and by giving the glass a thin coat of whitewash all will 
be made safe ; covering up at night is also very essential, and also that the soil never 
be allowed to get dry, sprinkle gently with lukewarm water. The two most essen¬ 
tial points in the management of hot-beds are, covering up at night, and admitting 
air during the day, as sometimes the whole contents of a bed is lost by one cold 
night or hot day. 
Transplanting:. —After the plants in the hot-bed or seed-bed in the garden 
have obtained their second leaves and made an inch or two of growth, they should 
