The First Lap 
Tromsoe Harbor lay bathed in radiance as the Laura , 
flying the New York Yacht Club flag, beat her way out. 
On the dark, rock-bound mountain behind the town ice 
filled the crevasses. To one side little gabled buildings 
nestled, as if afraid. A quaint old sailing-vessel or two lay 
in the Bocche; and where the mountains cut off the light, 
' ... 
OFF SKAARO 
the waters seemed dull and forbidding. Clouds lowered in 
impressive adieu. 
Fairly off, we slept until noon, waking to find ourselves 
anchored off Skaaro, a small island in Fuglo Sound, not far 
from both Vanno and Fuglo. The Anglo-Norwegian Fish¬ 
ing Company, later a Norwegian corporation, had a train-oil 
factory here, survivor of the old whaling station, but the 
present owners have changed the seat of operations to Bell 
[29] 
June 
16 th, 17 th 
