It is somewhat difficult to convey detailed particulars as to how success may be had in the planting and 
maturing of flowers. The skilled gardener who has every appliance necessary often fails in his efforts; while 
the little girl who has no knowledge of the art, but loves flowers, will frequently surprise not only herself 
but the older folks, who are not so much interested , with the results obtained by her labor and love. “ The 
Norwegians have a pretty and significant word, ‘ Opelske,’ which they use in speaking of the care of flowers. 
It means literally ‘ loving up,’ or cherishing them into health and vigor.” 
I he following practical information, in connection with the special cultural notes, that, when nec¬ 
essary, are set in the right-hand column against the variety, will be of service in making for success: 
Hardy Annuals (hA.).—This class require no artificial aid, but grow and flower freely in the open 
ground, mature their seeds and die in the same year. Before sowing the seeds in the open border, the soil 
should be thoroughly enriched with fertilizer or stable manure, dug and raked until firm, level and smooth. 
If possible, the location should be free from shade, although some sorts do well where they do not have the 
sun for more than half the day. 
Seed should be sown in spring as soon as the ground is dry enough to work freely. After the seed is 
sown shake over it fine soil sufficient to cover, light or heavier, according to size of seed; a good rule is, 
to cover seed twice its own depth. Very fine seed, such as Portulacas, requires no covering at all, but should 
be merely pressed into the soil with a piece of board or the palm of the hand. A second sowing can be made in 
from two to four weeks after the first, in order to provide for a succession, as well as to insure against failure. 
When it is desired to sow hardy Annuals and carry them along indoors until they can be planted out 
there is nothing better than shallow boxes, two or three inches deep, filled with sandy loam. Take especial 
care until the plants are up and during their early stages of growth to give plenty of air and water carefully. 
When they are well out of the seed leaf they should be planted in rows in other shallow boxes; or in two- 
inch pots. If they begin to crowd one another before the weather is suitable for setting out, a second trans¬ 
planting may be necessary. When first set out in the garden, or until well established, they should be 
watered carefully. Keep down all weeds, and loosen the ground occasionally, so that the plants may re¬ 
ceive the full benefit of rains and dews, which will not benefit them if the ground is allowed to become hard 
or crusted. 
Half-Hardy Annuals (hhA.).—These, in the latitude of Boston, should not be sown out-doors until about 
the middle of May. A good rule, followed by a successful gardener, is to sow these, and even some of the 
tender Annuals, at the same time he makes his sowings of cucumbers and melons. With half-hardy Annuals, 
however, it is generally best to sow them under the same conditions as advised for hardy Annuals in-doors. 
Tender Annuals (tA.).—To get strong plants and an early bloom, sow the seed in shallow boxes or pots 
in March, and place them in a warm greenhouse, or plunge in a ihoderate hot-bed, shade from the strong 
sun and water only with a very fine rose. A very light, sandy soil and good drainage are essentials. Be 
particular thht the finer seeds are not covered over deep, but have the soil pressed closely about them. 
Water frequently, especially if the green-house or hot-bed is very warm. When the plants are out of the 
seed leaf, transplant into shallow boxes or small pots. When sufficiently strong and the weather is suitable, 
set out in the flower beds, but not before the end of May. 
Hardy Biennials (hB.) and Perennials (hP.).—These require the same conditions as hardy Annuals. 
Those marked with a dagger (f) if sown early, in boxes, as directed for hardy and half-hardy Annuals, will 
See Special Offers on third page of cover. 
