THE GARDEN ALBUM AND REVIEW. 
29 
Cattleya X Octave Doin.—Several plants 
of this handsome hybrid were shown at the 
R.H.S., Westminster, on Jan. 23rd, by Messrs. 
Charlesworth & Co., Heaton, Bradford, and 
the Orchid Committee gave an Award of Merit. 
This hybrid is a cross between C. Mendeli and 
C. Dowianci, and, as one might expect, a very 
charming flower has been the result. The 
sepals and petals are pale rosy-mauve shading 
to white in the centre, while the well-fringed 
lip is velvety crimson with golden yellow on 
each side of the lined throat. 
Lfelio = Cattleya x Helena Westfield var. 
—This is a fine hybrid between Cattleya 
Schilleriana and Lcelia cinnabarina. It was 
shown at the R.H.S., Westminster, on Jan. 9, 
1905, by F. Wellesley, Esq., Westfield, 
Woking (gr. Mr. W. Hopkins), and received 
an Award of Merit, The plant shown had 15 
fine cylindrical bulbs, 6—gin. long, with silvery 
sheaths, each one having a thick leathery deep 
green leaf at the apex, 8—i2in. long, and 
about 2in. wide. There were 2 spikes each 
with 2 blossoms. The sepals and petals are 
bright orange-red suffused with purple. The 
lip is deep purple-crimson, with a spreading 
crisped lobe, the throat being deep orange- 
yellow lined with crimson. 
A LOVELY TOBACCO. 
The beautiful white-flowered Tobacco known 
as Nicotiana a finis (or alata ) has always been 
a deservedly popular garden plant. 
A few years ago another species of Tobacco 
( N . Fovgetiana) was introduced from Brazil by 
Messrs. Sander and Sons, of St. Albans. It 
has rosy-red flowers, which, however, are 
smaller than those of its white-flowered relative. 
But its colour is what inspired Messrs. Sander 
to cross it with N. afnis. The result has 
given us a new race of garden Tobaccos in the 
plant now famous as Nicotiana Sanders. 
This hybrid has attracted universal attention, 
and gained unstinted praise. It is a strong¬ 
growing, bushy plant, 3 to 5 feet high, and 
produces its large rosy, crimson, purple, violet, 
salmon, or snow-white blossoms in great pro¬ 
fusion. For cutting purposes the flowers are 
excellent, and last a long time in water if cut 
early in the morning, or at twilight. 
To secure the best results, the seeds of 
N. Sander# should be sown in February in 
rich sandy soil, and in a temperature of 65° to 
70° F. When large enough to handle easily, 
the seedlings should be pricked off, about 6 in. 
apart into boxes, or be placed singly in 3 in. 
pots. They should be grown on and hardened 
off, so as to be ready for planting out by the 
end of May or early in June. 
The soil should be deeply dug and well 
manured, so that the roots shall have plenty 
of moisture in summer. To enable the plants 
to develop the most brilliant shades of colour 
the beds or borders in which they are placed 
should be situate in the warmest and sunniest 
part of the garden. 
TIMELY REMINDERS. 
Flowers.—Poppy Anemones and Ranun¬ 
culuses should be planted now in deeply-dug 
and well-manured soil. 
The seeds of Ageratum, China Aster, Fibrous 
and Tuberous Begonias, Cockscombs, Coleus, 
Dahlias, Golden Feather, Gloxinias, Lobelia, 
Pansy, Petunia, Phlox Drummondi, Salpi- 
glossis, Tobaccos, Solanums, Castor Oil Plants 
(Ricinus), may be sown in light sandy soil, in 
a temperature of about 65° F. 
Cuttings of Alternantheras, Lobelias, 
Petunias, Iresines, Fuchsias, Zonal Pelar¬ 
goniums, Heliotropes, Sweet Peas, may be 
sown in drills or patches in the open air for 
early flowering. Seeds may also be sown in 
small pots under glass for planting out later 
on. 
Autumn-rooted cuttings of Zonal Pelar¬ 
goniums must be potted up from store pots or 
boxes. 
Old plants of Fuchsia may be pruned and 
started in gentle heat. 
Marguerites rooted in autumn should be 
potted. Care must be taken not to put them 
in too much heat, or the leaves will be attacked 
by maggot. 
Hardy herbaceous borders may be carefully 
dug over, but not too deeply for fear of injuring 
the roots. 
Fruits.—If not already done, well-ripened 
shoots of Apples, Pears and Plums may be cut 
and heeled in under a north wall for grafting 
in March. All wall trees should be nailed up 
without delay. 
The pruning of Raspberries, Currants and 
Gooseberries should be finished. 
If birds are troublesome with the buds on 
Red Currants and Gooseberries, the bushes 
may be encircled with black cotton, or be 
heavily dusted with lime and soot. 
Peaches and Nectarines under glass should 
be disbudded. 
It is now rather too late to spray the tops of 
fruit trees infested with moss, lichen, mussel- 
scale, American blight, etc., with caustic 
solution, as the buds are beginning to burst. 
The trunks, however, may be scrubbed and 
washed with the solution. 
Young fruit trees may still be planted on 
favourable days, taking care to spread the 
roots out well from the main stem. 
Vegetables.—Sow seeds of French Beans, 
Brussels Sprouts, Cabbages, Celery, Cucum¬ 
bers, Leeks, Lettuces, Melons, under glass or 
in warm frames. 
Sow Tomatos in heat, and fertilize the 
flowers of plants already established in pots. 
Sow in the open, in warm sheltered spots 
seeds of Broad Beans, Early Peas, Horn 
Carrots, Onions, Parsnips, Radishes, Spinach, 
and Turnips. 
Corn Salad may be sown in drills about 6in. 
apart. 
Potatos may be sprouted in shallow boxes. 
