THE 
GARDEN ALBUM 
AND REVIEW. 
FEB RU ARY, 1906. 
THE TUBEROUS BEGONIA. 
When one looks at the magnificent single 
and double varieties of the Tuberous Begonia 
to-day one can scarcely believe that 40 years 
ago the modern Tuberous Begonia was un¬ 
known. Indeed it was not until 1864 that the 
first parent of the race B. boliviensis was intro¬ 
duced from the Andes of Peru and Bolivia. 
The following year the only yellow-flowered 
species known— B. Pearcei —was introduced 
from the same region, and it is to it that we are 
indebted for the numerous yellow, orange and 
salmon shades that now abound. The other 
species concerned in the evolution of the 
modern plant were B. Veitchi , introduced in 
1867, an d B. Davisi in 1876. With the 
exception of the yellow B. Pearcei , the other 
parents have red or rosy flowers, all small and 
insignificant. It is therefore remarkable in 
many ways that from such small beginnings, 
and two colours, gardeners have been able to 
develop such a magnificent race of plants 
practically within the period of 30 years. 
Begonia blossoms bear a certain resemblance 
to those of the cucumber, melon, and marrow, 
inasmuch as male and female flowers are quite 
distinct from each other, although borne on 
the same plants. Of course the evolution of a 
flower from an inch or so in diameter to one 
six, eight, or nine times as much, has taken 
place gradually, and by a process of selection 
and inbreeding. The four petals normally seen 
in the original parents have been made much 
larger in every way, and the margins of them 
in many cases are beautifully waved, crinkled, 
or fimbriated. In what are known as the 
“double” flowers the male and female organs 
(known scientifically as the stamens and pistils 
respectively) have become changed from narrow 
thread-like bodies into broad and glowing 
petals full of colour. Hence it follows that 
as the reproductive organs have become meta¬ 
morphosed, it becomes more and more difficult 
to obtain seed from the double-flowered 
varieties. The blossom which is likely to 
bear seed is always easily recognised by the 
triangular winged ovary at the back. 
Culture. —Tuberous Begonias are plants 
that almost anyone can grow to perfection 
either in the open air or under glass. Indeed 
for the decoration of the outdoor garden the 
tuberous Begonia is in many places ousting 
the ever-popular Zonal Pelargonium from the 
flower beds, and it is now to be found during 
the summer months in many cottage gardens. 
It is not particular as to soil so long as this has 
been deeply dug and liberally dressed with 
well-rotted manure. For pot plants a compost 
of well-matured loam, leaf-soil and a little 
silver sand will be found to give excellent 
results—especially if a little Clay’s Fertilizer 
or Thomson’s manure has been mixed with it. 
Starting the Tubers.— Any time during 
February or March, these may be taken 
from their winter quarters and placed in 
shallow boxes on the surface of eiiher coco¬ 
nut fibre, leaf-soil, or indeed any good garden 
compost, in a temperature of 6o° to 65° F. 
The tubers should not be placed too closely 
together, otherwise when the fibrous roots 
develop, they are likely to become matted 
together. It is then difficult to separate one 
tuber from the other without injury to the 
delicate roots. There is no necessity to cover 
up the tubers when starting them into growth, 
but care should be taken to keep the rounded 
surface underneath, as it is from the hollow 
surface that the new shoots sprout. 
Potting.— As soon as the new shoots are 
about 2 inches long, the plants are ready to be 
potted. The size of the pots will depend upon 
the size of the tubers. A safe general rule to 
follow is to allow about if in. all round be¬ 
tween the outside of the tuber and the pot. 
It may therefore happen that pots 5, 6, or 8 
inches in diameter may be used. If they 
should become full of roots in a short time, 
owing to vigorous growth, it may be necessary 
to pot a second time using slightly larger pots. 
The compost may consist of well-matured 
loam, leaf-mould, and silver sand as -stated 
above. 
» 
Shading. —This is only necessary for a 
short time after the plants have been dis¬ 
turbed, merely to check evaporation from 
the fleshy leaves, and to enable the injured 
roots to heal, and throw out new fibres. 
When well established again, plenty of light 
and air should be given, taking care in the 
early part of the season not to allow the 
temperature in the greenhouse to fall below 
6o° F. by means of cold draughts from the 
ventilators or open doors. 
Watering.— This should always be done 
early in the morning or late in the afternoon, 
so as to avoid wetting the foliage in the middle 
of the day when the sun-heat is likely to be 
powerful, and cause brown blotches where 
drops of water have rested. If the soil con¬ 
tains a fair amount of humus in the form of 
leaf-soil—say about one-third of the whole 
compost—the soil will keep moist and cool for 
a much longer period than if only a small 
quantity be present. At each time of watering 
