PLATE 18. 
ROSE “ CARMINE PILLAR.” 
Of late years more attention has been paid to single flowered Roses, by 
raisers and public alike, with the result that there are now a fairly large 
number to be found in gardens. As a rule these single flowered Roses are 
confined to climbing varieties, and perhaps rightly so, as most people would 
scarcely appreciate a dwarf or bush rose that did not conform in shape to the 
best double types seen in the Hybrid Perpetuals, Teas, and Noisettes. 
The variety shown in the coloured plate was raised by Messrs. Paul & Son, 
Cheshunt, and put into commerce about ten years ago. It is very vigorous in 
growth and is an ideal variety for training up pillars, archways, &c. The 
flowers are large and of a bright rosy carmine, becoming paler at the base of 
the petals, and having a cluster of conspicuous yellow stamens in the centre. 
Like most climbing Roses, “ Carmine Pillar” requires but little pruning. 
The vigorous shoots of the previous year may have the unripened tops cut 
away about the middle or end of March, so that when growth commences in 
earnest the well ripened buds lower down the stem shall be encouraged into 
growth and blossom during the season. When plants have been established 
for several seasons it will be necessary to cut out the older stems, as they are 
rarely of any flowering value when more than three years old. All weak 
shoots and dead branches would be removed as a matter of course, not onlv 
* 
at pruning time proper, but at any other season of the year. 
SUMMER PRUNING OF FRUIT TREES 
There is perhaps no operation more puzzling 
to the general body of amateur gardeners than 
that known as summer pruning of fruit trees. 
Most people can understand the principles 
underlying the work of cutting out branches 
that cross or rub against each other in the 
centre of a standard or bush tree, and of 
shortening back in the winter months the long 
vigorous shoots made during the preceding 
summer. But when it comes to keeping fruit 
trees that are grown on walls, trellises, or 
fences in order, they are completely at sea. Of 
course it is perfectly natural that they should 
be as a knowledge of the proper cultivation, 
training and pruning, of fruit trees cannot be 
acquired in a few minutes. 
The first fact to recognise is that fruit trees 
grown on walls, trellises, or fences, cannot be 
allowed to grow with the same freedom as 
those fully exposed in all parts to the air and 
light. It is necessary, therefore, to keep their 
shoots within certain bounds. At the same 
time this must be done without interfering 
with the development of flowers and the pro¬ 
duction of fruit. Any system or training of a 
fruit tree that would interfere with these two 
main objects must of necessity be erroneous. 
The main stems or skeleton of the tree 
having been formed and trained to the extreme 
limits of the available space, the work of 
keeping the tree within that limit then com¬ 
mences. In the case of Peaches, Nectarines, 
Apricots, and Morello Cherries, which produce 
flowers and fruits on the young ripened shoots, 
the best of the young wood is retained each 
year and “ laid in ” during the summer months. 
The remaining young shoots, that are either 
badly situated, or are too weak to be of any value 
are pinched out altogether before they have 
made too much growth. In this way air and 
light are not excluded from the shoots that are 
carrying the swelling fruits. This is not the 
only benefit, for the sap that would have been 
wasted in the production of the weak or useless 
shoots, is turned to better use in feeding the 
fruits that are ripening, and the shoots that are 
maturing for the following year’s work. 
The time for pricking out or suppressing the 
shoots may extend from the end of May 
onwards, as the operation cannot be completed 
at any one time. 
In the case of apples, pears, plums and sweet 
cherries, where the flowers and fruits are borne 
on wood from two to six or seven years of age, 
more respect must naturally be paid to the 
