Sil 
POMPONE CHRYSANTHEMUMS. 
length, take them off, and strike them in the propagating pit, or a close frame. Continue that prac¬ 
tice until you have a sufficient number of each kind, and pot the cuttings off as they get well rooted : 
hut bring them up hardy, and keep them as dwarf as possible. The young plants, after they are esta¬ 
blished in small pots, may be protected under temporary frames, until they are planted out in June. 
Having provided a sufficient quantity of plants, the next step will be to prepare the ground, and this 
should be rather strong and well enriched, so that the plants may be taken up with good balls. Now, 
if large specimens are wanted, averaging say eighteen inches in height, and the same in diameter, the 
plants must be put out in rows three feet apart, the plants standing two feet apart in the row; but, if 
smaller plants will suffice, then you may take the cuttings in June, and after rooting them in a close 
frame, plant them out direct from the cutting pots, taking advantage of dull showery weather, and 
just sticking them in with a dibble, as you would a lot of cabbage plants. These young plants 
will not require so much room ; and hence, if they stand eighteen inches apart each way, that will be 
sufficient. As soon as they are established, and begin to grow freely, go over them, not later than the 
middle of July, and stop each plant by cutting the head off within a few inches of the ground: this 
will cause them to branch, and to become dwarf and very compact plants. If the larger plants are put 
out, they will require the same treatment as to cutting back, or they may be allowed to grow on, and 
have the points of the shoots layered the first week in August, by which means they will form very 
dwarf and compact plants for potting. One thing, however, must not be forgotten, and that is, that 
these small varieties must never be stopped later than July, or the probability is that they will not 
flower. Through the summer and autumn, the only care the plants will require will be to keep the 
ground clear from weeds, and deeply hoed occasionally; to water the plants in dry weather, giving 
them, when necessary, a thorough soaking; and to protect them by timely tying, and staking from 
being broken by the wind. Towards the end of August, if the plants continue to grow strongly, go 
along each row on one side, and with a spade cut the roots to within three or four inches of the stem, 
then in about a fortnight go along the other side, and cut the roots in the same way, and, if necessary, 
a third and fourth time. This will check the growth of the plants, and by ripening the wood induce 
and promote the blooming principle. Chrysanthemums, to bloom them properly, should not be planted 
upon a cold soil, as the buds are found to come blind, hard-eyed, and otherwise deformed: therefore, in 
cold situations, it will be found advisable to grow the plants upon a south border, or to remove them 
to other situations at the end of September. They will not receive much check if they are shaded 
afterwards, and receive a good drenching or two of water - 
Now, the time of removing the plants to the flower garden must, of course, depend upon circum¬ 
stances, but the sooner they are in the beds in which they are to bloom, after the end of September, 
the better. Before moving them, take care to give the bed in which they are to bloom a good dunging; 
and if fresh, so as to ferment a little after the plants are planted, it will be more beneficial to them. 
After planting give a good soaking of water, and, if necessary, shade the plants in the middle of 
the day. So far we have said nothing of protection; but, should the weather prove severe, a little 
protection will be necessary. We should, therefore, recommend a few neat iron or hazel hoops to be 
thrown over the beds, over which mats or waterproof covering could be placed at night. So 
managed, we have no doubt the plants would bloom splendidly, and the beds be gay until the close of 
the year,—a great point, more especially in establishments where the family is only at home in the 
shooting season. 
From the varieties at present in cultivation, we select the following as the most likely to be 
suitable for the flower garden:— 
1. Adonis; white, tipped with cherry colour. 
2. Autumnum; brown, medium size. 
3. Argentine; silvery white. 
4. Asmodie; yellowish buff, tipped with reddish 
brown. 
5. Bizarre; straw yellow, anemone centre, full size. 
6. Cybele; yellow, medium size. 
7. Daphne; reddish purple, full size. 
8. D’Or; golden yellow, very fine. 
9. Golden Drop ; anemone flowered; guard petals 
numerous. 
10. Henriette; pinkish lilac tipped maroon. 
11. La Ruche ; blush white, anemone flowered. 
12. La Fiancee; pure white, rather thin. 
