SANDWICH ISLANDS. 
85 
northward, towards Valparaiso, we had a day or two of 
adverse winds off the Archipelago of Chiloe, and naturally 
reverted to the sufferings of the grandfather of our captain— 
“ In horrid climes, where Chiloe’s tempests sweep 
Tumultuous murmurs o’er the troubled deep.” 
We are proceeding to see American Spain under very 
different circumstances. Two generations of men have 
sufficed to bring about an entire change in the moral and 
political state of this large portion of the world. Com¬ 
modore Byron, though a shipwrecked mariner, was marched 
through the country, whose sovereign was at peace with 
our own, as a state prisoner. We are going thither openly, 
secure of finding a friendly port filled chiefly with the 
vessels of our countrymen, and where the name of an 
Englishman is a passport to all the protection the state has 
to afford. 
On approaching the coast of Chile, the bare appearance 
and dark red colour of the cliffs give such an idea of ste¬ 
rility, that, as Vancouver has remarked, it is difficult to 
account for the abundance and variety of fruits and vegeta¬ 
bles which daily fill the market. 
Feb. 4th.—We anchored in Valparaiso bay, where we 
found his Majesty’s ships Briton, Mersey, and Fly, a French 
corvette, the Chilian State’s ships Lautaro, Valdivia, and 
